I've added an article to my web page that describes a method I've settled on for controlling my N-scale turnouts. I've asked for and received suggestions from others on this forum in the past, and ended up doing my own thing anyways! But that's just modeler's prerogative, right?
Basically, I am using Micro-Engineering turnouts which come with a cast metal switchstand. This method uses that casting as a knob, connected by a wire throwbar to the points. The built-in wire spring holds the points, and the knob just floats, sliding back and forth across the ties.
Check out my article at:
http://wpandp.com/Home/2010/07/true-scale-ground-throws/
Neat solution. I'm using Atlas c55, and have settled on using a micro slide switch. These can be be painted to more or less blend in with the scenery, and they're sturdy enough to stand up to thousands of throws. It also gives me the power routing for the frog, which is critical for me since I'm running DCC.
I'd be concerned about your method being a bit fragile, but you seem to have it working.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Your method using slide switches was one of the more intriguing responses I got a while back when I inquired about possible methods. I strongly considered going that route, but I just couldn't resist the appeal of those castings! As for fragility, with the wire CA'ed into a hole in the casting, all the stress is on the mechanical joint, the glue just keeps the casting from flying up into the air. Actually, it also keeps it from spinning around. If the glue ever fails, I'll see it spin, and it's a simple matter to re-glue it. The mechanical connection to the connecting "rod" (actually a plate) is loose, but there's no way for it to back out once the turnout is in place, and again any stresses on it are perpendicular (the side of the wire presses against the edge of the hole) - there's no forces pushing it vertically.
I'm thinking that it is possible to hybridize your slide switches with this approach, basically using the casting to cap the slide switch throw (i.e. bury the slide switch below grade), but this would be more fragile and difficult to construct.
My original question that your suggestion was in answer to pertained specifically to Atlas switches, since I've acquired a handful of #10's. I've since figured out how to make my own wire springs, so I can treat the Atlas's this same way. Still, I've almost talked myself into using a powered turnout control for the big #10 mainline switches! Talk me out of it...