My sure-fire method for laying flextrack around an existing curve.

[Medina1128]

Follow along as I explain MY sure-fire method for laying flextrack around a curve. Most flextrack will spring back to its original shape once you remove it from the section you're adding. I realize that there are sure to be posters with their own method, but this is what works for me.

1. Install rail joiners on existing track.
2. Snap one tie off of flextrack.
3. Insert flextrack into joiners.
4. Making sure to follow existing curve, bend the flex track around the curve. Pin in place with pushpins, as you follow the curve.
5. After pinning approximately 6-8" of flextrack, double check joint to make sure there are no kinks in the track. IMPORTANT: Make sure there is NO kink.
   
6. Finish pinning the section into place. Check to make sure both rails at first joint have no gaps!! THIS is important as you'll see why later.
7. Measure rails at next joint. I leave about 1/8th to 1/4" extra.
8. Making sure rails haven't moved and there NO gaps at original joint, cut rail with rail nippers or a Dremel with cutoff disk.
   
9. Snap off 2 ties from end of flextrack.
   
10. File ends of rails in flextrack until there is approximately 1/32" gap between ends.
11. Insert rail joiners into rails on other existing track, pushing them all the way on.
12. Set flextrack in place and, using a small flat tip screwdriver, slide joiners onto existing track.
13. While still in place, apply a drop of CA to the outside of the rails on both rails. I use ZipIt! to speed the setting time.
    
14. After the CA has set up. Slide the joiners back so you can remove the section of flextrack. This will make the flextrack hold its shape.
15. I then paint the section. Once the paint is dry, I set the flextrack into place.
    

Done this way, there are no shiny spots on the sides of the rail where the rail slides along the ties. Clean the railtops with a paper towel dampened with paint thinner.

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[tomikawaTT]

Sounds like the key is using CA on the rails to hold the curve.

With Atlas flex, I get the same results by pre-flexing the track so that it will hold the radius I want without using any fastenings of any kind.  Also, I paint my track in place, which allows me to work in subtle weathering touches picked up while railfanning my prototype 'back when.'

Painted in place after installation, there won't be any shiny spots, except the railheads.  Those had better be shiny...

As for solidly butted rail joints - I laid some track that way about 18 months ago.  After undergoing the usual midsummer heat, the side thrust loosened the caulk I use to anchor flex track and developed a slight but noticeable 'side-blister' kink at each outer-rail joint.  I had the pleasure (NOT) of re-laying it last month - with appropriate gaps.  Solid butting works if your layout is in a room with climate control like an electronics lab.  In a non-climate-controlled garage in the Mojave Desert...

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - in Southern Nevada)