Best way is to use just one incline in the center and add material to each side ( just attach a 1" strip down each side even with the surface).
WS's risers/inclines are 2.5 inches wide. If you put 2 together, you have 5", plenty of room to get 2 tracks 2" at centerline. As far as a curve using risers, just cut out small pieces on the inside one, if it's an incline you can do the same on the inside piece as long as they have some distance between the pieces you cut out.
you can't change the radius of a Woodland Scenics riser without changing the height, therefore you can't run them side by side without stretching one (which doesn't usually work) and get the same height at the end.
Unless your curves are of fairly broad radius, 2" track-to-track may not be enough clearance in any case. The NMRA recommended practice notes different (and wider) track-to-track spacings for tighter curves and longer equipment.
As noted, it may be challenging to make the out-of-the-box WS risers work well in this situation.
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
The wider your track radius, the better the WS risers will work side by side. BUT--you are always going to have the problem of the outer set of risers ending up a little 'under' the same height as the inner, possibly about 1/4 of an inch. The solution is to either build up height under the outer radius risers, or use an extra 'starting' riser on top until you've brought the tracks up to the same level.
I had that problem laying a parallel outer passing track on one portion of my layout. My inner radius is 34", the outer radius is 36". By the time I had both sets of 2% risers laid in to the level I wanted, there was about a 1/4" difference in height. I simply built the outer riser level up to the inner with a section of 2% 'starter' riser. It worked. Yes, the parallel tracks are at a different elevation for part of the curve, but that's hardly un-prototypical on real railroads.
Here's the curve, building up to the 4" height I wanted. Make sure that you've got at LEAST a 2" separation between track centers. Even more would be better. Mine's about a 3", and even then it can be a tricky proposition running a train around the outer passing track if I'm holding a train on the inner. Especially if it involves cars over 50' in length.
Parallel curves on WS grades do work, but you have to do a little 'fudging'.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
ham99 If you have access to a woodworking shop, it is easy to make your own risers from foam. Then you can build them to any grade or width you need. I made my own from [pink] foam.
If you have access to a woodworking shop, it is easy to make your own risers from foam. Then you can build them to any grade or width you need. I made my own from [pink] foam.
Why do you need access to a woodworking shop? I have been very successful using a speed square, a metal straight edge, and a hacksaw blade.
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