I'm using 1/8" masonite for both fascia & backdrop.The backdrop will be screwed low into the benchwork and extend 11" above the foam top.I have 3 panels I need to connect (end to end), 2 corners, and I was wondering the best way to do it.I have no room behind the backdrop, so everything must be thin or in front.Its an urban layout, most of the backdrop will be covered in buildings / painting. So there is some flexibity (up to another 1x3 in front ;)
Should I:Flush & use tape, glue or thin sheet of ?Leave a wee bit of space & put some kind of plastic or metal connector between them & then paint the connector? (endtoend for the straights, L for the corners?)
I've found that 1/8" hardboard as some warp in it: screwing it firm & flush to the baseboard will help, but I want the seems that rise up 11" above the layout to meet up flush & strong.
I'll keep browsing the hardwear stores for inspiration, & Thanks for any ideas!Cheers!--Mark
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
Mark, For any joints that will not be visible, you can just butt them together and not finish them at all. However, for visible joints, it really depends on what you will be satisfied with. For the best results, you would tape & mud the joint just as if you are finishing drywall. It is a bit of work, but you only have a few seams and they are not very long, so it is not too bad and the results are a flat continuous backdrop. This is what I used to finish the seams of my backdrop. If you do not require a continuous flat surface, you can purchase vinyl panel molding at the local home improvement store (HD, Lowes, etc.). You leave about a 1/4" gap between the sheets of hardboard and the vinyl molding slides onto the ends of each piece. It can be painted but is not flat and it will be visible as a "bump" in your backdrop. I am using the vinyl molding for all of the seams on my fascia because it gives a nice finished look.
If you look at this photo of my layout, you can see the whilte vinyl panel molding between the sheets of hardboard on the helix base in the foreground and the middle deck fascia in the background. The fascia and molding will both eventually be painted a dark earth color (one day!):
Jamie
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I have used the vinyl panel molding on my lighting valances and plan to use them to join sections of my fascia. They are available in "inside" and "outside" corners, pieces to join butt joints and to finish free edges. They can be painted but they will be visible on the front of the panel. To connect your backdrop panels end-to-end, I'd suggest that you cut a piece of the 1/8" hardboard approximately 8" wide and glue it to the back of the joint with 4" on either side of the joint. I'd use yellow carpenter's glue or epoxy glue to be sure the glue joint does not break. I'd leave no gap between the ends of the panels at the joint and use DAP Vinyl Spackle (per Joe Fugate) to finish the joint. You will need to put at least two coats of the spackle on the joint, sanding between the coats. If you use drywall tape and mud to finish the joint, be sure to feather the mud out well away from the tape over the joint or it will appear as a bump in the surface.
I used the the a backer board, in my case a 1 x 4 to which the hardboard was glued and screwed, and the DAP Vinyl Spackle to finish the joints on my backdrop board. They've been installed for several months in a heated and air conditioned basement room and the joints have shown no sign of cracking.
Bob