working on the new pike and before i lay the track i want to install under the track uncoupling magnets. any suggestions on different types or techniques?
Refer to a section of "Workshop" in the January, 2007 Model Railroader. It describes a very inexpensive magnet set available at Ace Hardware stores. The technique is equivalent to Kadee "delayed-action" magnets, and they can be completely hidden under the ties. Suggestion: As this is a fairly permanent installation, set up some test scenarios first to see just how close to curves you can perform the uncoupling and coupling functions. Also, because this magnet arrangement is quite short, you will need something in the way of an above-track marker to let you know just where to position the cars to be uncoupled. I have installed several of these -- they work great!
It is recommended that electromagnetic uncoupling magnets be used in through tracks, to prevent false uncoupling due to slack action in through trains.
A less expensive alternative is to mount a large under-track magnet on a hinge. When not in use, it hangs vertically well below the ties. Pulling on a cable connected to a knob on the fascia brings the magnet right up to the layer of thin material (in my case, card stock) under the ties, ready to uncouple what YOU want to uncouple - and nothing else. When the cars part or you've run the couplers together for delayed-action spotting, release the cable and the magnet drops out of action.
In this day of DCC controlled widgets, this may seem to be the brute force and ignorance way of doing things. The only thing I can say in rebuttal is that it works.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Use both. I'm at the 'about to lay track' stage and I have a yard to put down. It's best then to mark out where your permanenet magnets are to go and where powered ones are to go. Powered magnets should be on the main or anywhere you don't want trains to uncouple as they move along. Fixed magnets are fine for switch yards.
For permanent magnets I have Kadee magnets (item 308 - I think) and these fit under the track. I am routering a pocket for each one under where the track will go. I'll then place cardstock or thin plastic over the top so that when the track is laid and ballasted they will not be seen.
As to powered magnets, I'm thinking of buying Kadee 309's (again I think this is the right part number) and doing much the same but obviously allowing for wiring etc. I would connect these up to my NCE DCC at a later date so I can power them on and off remotely via my handset.
However, don't forget it is possible to make your own powered uncouplers by winding thin copper wire around a couple of bolts, one for each rail. Depends how much time you have and how patience!
Cheers!
I would add one note of caution with the Kadee under the track magnets. They are rather strong and will pull cars that have steel axels. They also may open some couplers too far to allow for "delayed action" spotting. However, they always uncouple.
Joe
I agree with JoeinPA. The Kadee magnets are very strong and I had a caboose with metal wheels that was pulled back and forth by the magnet if it stopped over it.
I've been playing around with some of these.http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13(D-23, D-24)Drill some 1/8" holes between your ties and put a few in a row on the inside of each rail. You can hardly see them if you paint them.
loathar I've been playing around with some of these.http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13(D-23, D-24)Drill some 1/8" holes between your ties and put a few in a row on the inside of each rail. You can hardly see them if you paint them.
I have seen these and comparable ones from other sources. Do they really work well?
The Nov 08 RMC has an article on the little round magnets used as uncouplers. I have seen adds for them in MR and I remember another article, not sure where it was (might try the Index of Magazines), but it was about them. Those seem to come 4 in a package and if I remember correctly they were used in a cluster and would help reduce the problem mentioned in RMC article about such a short uncoupling area.
God Luck,
LNEFAN -Yep, they're really strong. Put a few in line for a longer uncoupling area. Paint to match your ballast and you can hardly see them.
How far above the ties or below the railhead do you position the pole ends? Also, I see they become stronger with an increase in length. Have you experimented with anything longer than D-24?
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23_37
I use 3/8" dia 1/8 thick (thicker is stronger). You can even install after roadbed and track, before ballast. Top flush with bottom of ties.
Similar to Loathar's technique.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I used the 3/8x1/8, but I set mine flush with the top of the ties. You really don't need any longer than 3/8".
My rule of thumb about magnet placement: The cars you are uncoupling need to be lined up on a straight track in both directions. So, there needs to be straight track on both sides of the uncoupling zone, as long as your longest car or engine that will be uncoupled there in each direction. You can relax this a bit for long passenger cars with truck-mounted "Talgo" couplers, because they align with the track, not the car. So, don't put the magnet right after the curved branch of a tight turnout, for example, because the results will be less than satisfactory.
I've got one Kadee electromagnet, which I installed the hard way, from below after the track was down. I would not suggest doing this. "Dream, Plan, Build" became "Dream, Build, Swear" because I forgot Plan. It works despite my lack of foresight, but it could have been easier.
The Kadee electromagnet takes a buttload of current, by the way. I power mine off an independent wall-wart, to keep it completely isolated from train power. I'm not sure how well it would run off DCC, but I would be careful. You certainly don't want to run it directly off a decoder. You might be able to power it indirectly, with a static decoder like those used for twin-coil switch machines.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
loatharI've been playing around with some of these.http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13(D-23, D-24)Drill some 1/8" holes between your ties and put a few in a row on the inside of each rail. You can hardly see them if you paint them.
Loather
Hy These magnets seem like a good idea, I haven't been able to get the Kadees to operate correctly.I assume you need them to be "axially" magnetized when fitted in a hole drilled vertically? Both are available. Thanks
Lee
i expiremented with the EZ-Mate under track uncoupler. very strong, too strong! gonna try the D24 meathod. how strong is the N42 compared to the N50?
Hi
Would size of magnet be any different for N scale?
thx
loatharI used the 3/8x1/8, but I set mine flush with the top of the ties. You really don't need any longer than 3/8".
I took Loathars advice and purchased these magnets. I installed them in a couple on un-ballasted locations to test them out. I have them level with the tops of my ties, and they work great, I would recommend them.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
so do you put them in the middle of the track between rails....on each side of a tie or side by side?
I put one on the inside of each rail right next to the rail. You can use 4 or 6 to make a longer uncoupling area if you like. Using only 2 gives you a pretty small target to try and stop on.
Walthers Feb Flyer lists them on pg 34 for $5.98 for four of them. Might even come with instructions on how to place them, who knows?
Good luck,
Wazzzy i expiremented with the EZ-Mate under track uncoupler. very strong, too strong! gonna try the D24 meathod. how strong is the N42 compared to the N50?
The N50's are a little stronger. 1.08lbs of pulling force compared to .96lbs. Either will work for our purposes. You want to use the axial versions. There's a details section next to each magnet. Don't know how N scale coupler work or what they need. I'd suggest trying one that fits between the ties and is a bit longer. Maybe 1/2" for more pulling force.(???) That's just a guess though.
Magnets in a main track can be a problem. Therefore I've made some of my magnets moveable.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
loathar LNEFAN -Yep, they're really strong. Put a few in line for a longer uncoupling area. Paint to match your ballast and you can hardly see them.
I've been going back and forth on this magnet issue in my mind for a long time. I've been using skewers for uncoupling and they work well but in some areas I'd rather not reach over scenery. I really don't like the look of Kadee magnets and don't want to get into electromagnets under the layout. So the small ones seem like an option. I will not put them on any mainline track or passing sidings but for industries they may be just what I'm looking for. In any case, I do need to decide because my next big project will be ballasting and I want to place them (if I do use 'em) before I do that job.
Last night I posted a thought about this and got an email on it, but it never posted here. Must have gotten OOpsed as mentioned on the General Forums,
Anyhow, the Walthers Feb flyer has the small magnets on pg 34, 4 for $5.98. Might even have set up suggestions, who knows.
Have fun,
cowman Last night I posted a thought about this and got an email on it, but it never posted here. Must have gotten OOpsed as mentioned on the General Forums, Anyhow, the Walthers Feb flyer has the small magnets on pg 34, 4 for $5.98. Might even have set up suggestions, who knows. Have fun,
I think those in the Walthers catalog are different than what we're talking about. Those look like 4 disk magnets glued to a plate. Probably has to be installed under your track before it's laid. (probably)
well, with some expirementing, i found the perfect combination to make the uncoupling/delay action work every time. first was to ditch the older KD#5's and replace them with the 'whisker' couplers. there is less effort required to off-center the coupler for the delay action comparedc to the brass insert. second was to order the D24 magnets recommended in previous replies. i put 3 sets of 2 magnets flush with the tops of the ties as recommended. this combination works perfect with the code 83 track. i am happy that i spent a few nights of trial and error.
PS - i have 10 EZ MATE uncoupling magnets for sale. make offer.
Atlas n-scale code 80 track has spaces between ties just a shade smaller than 1/8".
The D-22-N50 are 1/8"dia x 1/8" long and would fit nicely, except there's 1/4" - 5/16th space sideways, so the magnets would be touching each other (unless you can stagger them?)
The 1/16" dia mags have 1/4 the pulling power as the 1/8"dia.
It would be nice to have the smaller round ones work for n-scale: those kadee mags look fat (not phat) between the rails.
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
Bruce H.
Any idea what the Ace SKU is for the magnets? My local Ace hardware man couldn't find a listing for magnets of this type.
Thank you,
Lothar and others - I am sorry to be so dense but I am missing something in this idea. I assume that one must line up the magnets - on one side and + on the other??
Also, if one uses 3 in a line in a yard, for example, what keeps the line from uncoupling as one is trying to build a manifest from that yard track?