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Try your local hardware stores, or art supply stores. Normally it is in the paint and finish areas, or with woodworking epoxy and finishes. [url]http://www.***-blick.com/items/029/18/02918-1006-3ww.jpg[/url] It is really easy to work with... but beware, it sets up level, absolutely level, so if you want to have a "waterfall" let it begin to set, then pour "top down" in small batches. It takes a while to set, and it is EPOXY, so it will destroy most tools, etc. if they are coated. I use a thick tuperware bowl and cheap metal spoons (don't clean the tuperware, let it harden then "pop" it out when it sets, BE SURE THE BOWL HAS A ROUNDED BOTTOM, it is easier to pop out.) The spoons will be useless after afew sessions, and each session can require up to 24 hours to set completely. The best part is when it hardens, it self de-gasses (no bubbles) and is clear to the bottom. (be sure the bottom structure is worth looking at.) If you want to "cloud" the water, then during your last few pours, sprinkle a little ground foam of brown or green and let it settle in a layered effect. It takes very little ground foam during the pours, and it is not overly expensive so you may want to practice off the board to get the effect you want with an identical bottom structure. Depth is no problem. The instructions indicate that you shouldn't pour more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch per layer. I have had sucess at greater depths per pour, but be very carefull not to get overzealous as it does SELF LEVEL. I cannot say this enough, becuse it will go places when solvent, just like water. Pinholes, slightly unlevel areas, and overly pourous banks will allow it to crawl or leak. Also, it is a chemical epoxy so it is exothermic. Very little fumes, but a good deal of heat can be created, so plaster is a better form to pour into. (Follow the manufacturers recommendation for temperature to the letter. If it is cold, when you pour, it will be tacky forever... To de-gass faster, fog the pour with your breath a couple of times (try to stay out of the fumes, as I said they are not the fumes you expect, but it is chemically melting plastic, so it can't be good for your health.)) Here's an okay link: [url]http://www.ztrains.com/pages/workshop/water_part1/water_part1.html[/url] I offer this as personal experience, it has been a beautifull addition to my layouts, and most people are honestly afraid to touch my "wet" areas. They believe it to be actual water, or something that is still drying. (Last hint... once it is all hardened and no longer tacky, THEN go back and add your banks back down to the water line. The surface tension will have crawled up 1/16th to 1/4 of an inch, so you need to fini***he bank back down to get rid of the glossy crawl area.)
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