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Now all of the internal braces are in.  Here it is with the windows and door just popped into the openings (not glued).[IMG]http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n123/Alan_B/030207-001_r.jpg[/IMG]Since I put in a full bottom; the inside will not be accessible when the roof goes on.  I am not going to detail the inside as this sits back about three feet from the front of the layout under normal conditions (where I stand, not the actual edge of the layout).  I will glaze the windows and add curtains to the inside before installing the windows, door and roof.  No one will be able to see the back, so no doors or windows there.  Since the wood needs to be painted on all sides, to reduce warping, I will paint the inside and add a coat to the outside for balance.  The outside will have to be touched up later as trim and the roof are attached.Here is the painted building:[IMG]http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n123/Alan_B/030207-005_r.jpg[/IMG]Yes, I did paint the bottom.[IMG]http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n123/Alan_B/030207-004_r.jpg[/IMG]Note:  The sequence and methods shown here work for me; you might have a different, and better, way of doing things.  From another thread, the use of glass for a cutting surface came up.  I use glass because it gives me a good hard surface to cut against and a nice smooth and level surface to build on.  It cleans up with a razor blade and does not get nicked up after using it to cut against (even with the pressure of cutting plastic). If you use glass; use thick glass (not single strength picture glass) and not tempered (it will turn into a pile of glass bits when you cut against it).  Also be sure to smooth out any sharp edges on the glass to keep from getting cut.I also use single edged razor blades for most cutting.  They cut cleaner than knife blades and are thinner, which requires less cutting pressure.  They are also much cheaper (hardware store item).
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