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Banked turns?
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<p>The "techical term" is SuperElevated.</p><p>Worth it? Depends on what you mean, I guess.</p><p>The real ones tend to conteract the centrifugal force of a fast-moving train, so it doesn't derail to the outside. On a model railroad, they won't help keep trains on the track, and in fact may make them more likely to derail, to the inside. </p><p>But in some opinions, they look good, so some of us do it. We no doubt over-do it, often, by elevating them more than is prototypical.</p><p>How? I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and just put shims made from cardstock along the outside. Since the foam roadbed is pliable, you don't have to be exact. I start with 6" or so of thin stock, then thicker stuff (I'm in HO).</p><p>With cork, you'd probably have to be more precise.</p><p>Some folks put the roadbed down, then shim between it and the track. I find it easier to ballast the other way, but whatever works is fine. If adjustments are needed, I do sometimes shim between the roadbed and track. </p><p>The only things to be careful of are to keep the track as even as you can, and if there are any turnouts, be very careful that they're in the same plane. Meaning, if it turns out away from the curve, it should rise for a few inches before levelling off; if it turns inside, it must actually descend for a few inches. Otherwise you will have Derailment City! And if you have a turnout on the straight, just before a curve, don't change the plane near the turnout -- either start before the turnout, or well after it. </p><p>I have a large double-track main, with some crossovers on superelevated curves. I had to raise the whole outside track to keep the whole thing in the same plane. Big hassle, but it finally worked out so there are almost no derailments there. </p><p>So be sure all your equipment will go in all directions and in all combinations before ballasting -- you can still shim & adjust, but it's much harder. </p>
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