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Charlie, Although I am a newbie just starting my G outdoor layout, I can provide some info. FYI "flex track" in G isnt like flex track in other scales, most of it is designed to be bent with a rail bender, unlike in HO/N where you flex it and nail it. Because the rail is larger it wants to stay strait. The benders are easy to use. Also Aristo 8' flex comes seperate from the ties and has to be assembled, there are different benders some which you bend the rail seperate from the ties, and one you bend it on the ties. Decisions you need to make before buying track: 1) track vs batt r/c power -each material has different conductivity (need to be cleaned), price and strength 2) scale height vs oversized but more rugged (ie can handle a little more abuse) 3) layout size & curve diameter -larger diameter runs more equipment & the equipment looks better on the curves. Flex allows variable diameter curves bent to match location. I personally bought the code 332 (larger, but more durable) Aristo 8' brass flex(cheaper than Stainless, weathers to a black, & I am goin batt power) during the jan feb sale as that was the best possible buy on track, although shipping was a bit more, I think it will save me joiner derailments and such problems, I think the shipping will be more than made up for in savings on rail clamps. I am going to try the Train-Li bender as it bends both rails at once on the ties. and as close to 20' diameter curves as I can get. but that is just me. My subroadbed method is going to be Marty Cozad's/whiterab (cement) -durablity/mildly stepable This is a very abrivated answer, seach this & mylargescale.com forums for much longer & detailed answers. How I plan to do it is best for me, but not everyone. Each of the different methods has a reason people do it, it depends on what you want in the end.
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