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This is for Fredboyer. You asked about an R/C unit between batteries and motors. This works, is cheap, and is available at most comprehensive hobby shops dealing in R/C cars. That's CARS, not trains, sometimes we must tred in unfamiliar territory. <br /> <br />Assuming you have a battery pack of 12V or less, and a motor draw of only a couple of amps, such as a Bachman Climax, The Novack "SPY" electronic speed control or ESC as they are known will work well for you. They are rated as a seven cell unit, meaning top factory recommended voltage is 8.4 volts, but I have found that since the unit is rated tor 12 amps, the reduced current and increased voltage does not make for any heating problems. I regularly run mine on 12vdc, no problems ever. These units are really designed based on the power the motor consumes, and power = volts x amps. Don't take this voltage for current swap to the limit, but it does work up to a point. If you have room for a larger unit, Novack makes a unit called the "Rooster" which can handle an obscene amount of current, far more than locomotives ever would need. Either control provides the 4.8v needed for the radio receiver, so no extra batteries or wiring are needed. In selecting model car ESC units for locomotives, always get ones that reverse. Some top end racing controls have no reverse. <br /> <br />Couple either of these ESC units to a Futaba "Attack SR" two channel AM R/C unit, and you have a low cost winner under $100 + batteries. The only drawback between this and units made specifically for locomotives is that the transmitter must be on and sending signal all the time the locomotive is running. With interference the locomotive's operation may become jumpy.
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