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Blue Aster, I would first check to see how strong the fence is and possibly dig down next to one of the fence post to see how far down it goes. If you built the fence you may already know, It is common practice by alot of fence building companys here in Ohio to only dig down 24" instead of 36" where the frost line is. Then people call on me or others on how to fix a crooked fence due to frost heave. I have seen fences that have had a small rock garden leaning against them (only two foot high) and the weight has caused the fence to lean in that spot away from the rock garden, soil especialy wet soil is heavy. Concrete drywall or tile backer board would still need to be coated with a water proof thin set type mortar at least on the dirt side of fence and tape any joints in the process, this will keep water from wicking towards the out of the soil. ever see a stucco house after it rains and the stucco a day or so later looks wet? They probably didn't use a " sonoboure" additive in their mix to keep this from happening. The house will sometimes rot away from beneath the stucco. <br />Cedar is an excellent wood for exterior however it is very soft and non structural against weight. O.K I ran along enough, I would recommend using railroad ties[:D] and making sure to staggar the joints far apart and pin each course with rebar and hold the first one back a 1/2" form the fence and the next course a 1/2" from the first tie and so on. This will create an air pocket so the fence will dry out <br />and at three foot high( approx 4 ties high) you would be 2 " away from the fence <br />This will also curb the weight of the dirt away from the fence. I would also recommend putting 6" of stone underneath the first tie for drainage. The ties are treated but I would also spray a termite killer( find at home depot or garden center) just as an added precaution. Then you could fill in dirt to the top of the tie <br />and slope away. Any questions regarding my diarhea of the mouth? I'll check back and answer.
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