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I just stumbled into this forum looking for ideas to mount an LGB railroad above my HO one that is about to be rebuilt in a new home. The aluminum channel idea looks great. I had planned to use metal shelf brackets and 1'2" plywood mounted on 1" x 2" pine set vertically with homasote for roadbed. The idea of using 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" plywood stiffener would solve the problem on the curves. Extending the stiffener above the track by 2" would provide a guardrail against derailments. This could be a piece of masonite laminated to the plywood which provide an attractive fascia. My plan calls for 2 parallel tracks with one small yard based on the John Allen timesaver configuration cut into the loop closet to the operator's aisle. This would let me do a little switching on one loop while a train laps on the other. Probably a few sidings thrown in somewhere and a crossover between the two loops. I intend to set the HO railroad at 40" above the floor so the large scale will need to be set at around 60" to give me a minum of 16" clearance between the two railroads. I'm working in a space roughly 30' by 20'. This time the railroad room is drywalled, painted, and well lit! Anyone have some tips about track centre spacing? I was planning to use 6" between the track on straight track with 10" vertical clearance ( i have some ductwork I need to clear). Also plan to handlay the rails in ties. I've been told I don't need a rail bender if I'm spiking the track indoors. Any thoughts? Switches (turnouts) will be commercial: mostly LGB. I haven't checked out alternatives for proper mating although Aristo appears to mate with LGB if I'm reading the ads correctly. I've been building HO railroads for 40 years and it feels like I'm a novice all over again! At this time it doesn't look like this railroad will ever make it outside but a siding might just terminate near a basement window just in case. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Bill
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