There are constantly questions here about how to successfully solder rail joints or feeder wires. I never really know how to answer them because I just solder by "feel." Well, this weekend I was laying and wireing a bunch of track, so I paid closer attention to how I do it--and here it is.
I model N scale and use code 80 track, so this proceedure should vary little for HOers using code 83 track. I use a 30 watt soldering "pencil", a tupe of "paste" type rosin flux, 60/40 solder with rosin core at .050 diameter, and 20 AWG solid wire feeders between main bus (this is a DCC layout) and track.
For rail joints I use a toothpick to spread a light coat of flux on the OUTSIDE of the rail ends. Then I slide rail joiners on and join the rails together. Remember, flux helps solder to flow, so only put flux where you want solder. When I'm ready to solder, I touch my hot iron to the oudside of the railjoiner exactly at the joint of the two pieces of track. I hold the iron there for 5 seconds--long enough to heat the rails and joiner enough to melt the flux. Then, holding the iron in place, I touch the solder to it for only a half second or so. You don't need much solder to make a good joint, so don't hold it there too long. Having done this I keep the iron in place for an aditional 3 seconds to allow the solder to flow completely into the joint. this 8.5 second process gives a strong, good looking joint and does not melt or harm ties, even when they are quite close.
For track feeters I drop the wire and attach it to the terminal strip below the layout. Then I strip a small end of the wire to be attached to the track. I use a small pair of needle nose pliers to flatten the end of the feeder and bend it in a 90 degree angle where it will touch the rail.
I then use knippers to cut that peice off so that the horizontal part of the wire is very short. (I should note that I put all of my feeders behind the rails so they are out of sight, thus one feeder will be on the inside of one rail.)
I again use a toothpick to put some flux on the underside of this hook of wire.
I slide the wire down through the hole so the "hook" just catches the bottom flange of the rail. Now I'm ready to solder. I touch the iron to the wire and rail where the meet for 3 seconds (it doesn't take as long to heat the wire). I then touch the solder to it for 1/2 a second and I leave the iron in place for about 2 seconds. Again, this leaves a good joint without melting the ties. Finally, I use a fine file to clean any errant solder off the tops and uper sides of the rails.
That's all there is to it. For all those who ask for help in this area, I hope this helps.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
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Texas Zepher wrote:That looks like your feeders are going on the inside of the rails! I always put feeders on the outside so their isn't any chance of getting a hump (of wire or solder) the wheel flanges might hit.
I commenced my modest soldering history doing it your way, but I figured that if I could learn to do it well, placing the feeder ends on the side of the rails away from the view would keep them hidden. So, one feeder goes inside the closest rail, and outside its counterpart.
If you take the time to fashion a nice, small, curl where the bare wire tip is to meet the rail, and make sure the apex of any vertical curve on that tip is below an NMRA profile flange, it should work for you. Occasionally I goof and leave that wire apex a bit to high, but my eyes detect it by watching axles and truck frames. A firm pressure on the wire will either reduce its profile or separate it from the rail. The former is great and dandy, the latter needs a reheat.
I would recommend soldering to the BOTTOM of the rail, not the inside, to avoid humps/bumps as mentioned. I do as shown, just pushed up to the bottom of the rail. If you form a zig-zag with the wire (2 or 3 90' bends...) this helps keep the wire in place so you don't need 3 hands! Then just place on bottom, touch with fine tip soldering iron and bam. No bumps this way....
Brian
Very informative....Thanks!
underworld
ShadowNix wrote: I would recommend soldering to the BOTTOM of the rail, not the inside, to avoid humps/bumps as mentioned. I do as shown, just pushed up to the bottom of the rail. If you form a zig-zag with the wire (2 or 3 90' bends...) this helps keep the wire in place so you don't need 3 hands! Then just place on bottom, touch with fine tip soldering iron and bam. No bumps this way.... Brian
I have tried many ways of accomplishing this process. I find the way I described the easiest. The hole holds the wire in place. If you flatten and bend the wire as I showed and solder it to the bottome flange it will not create a hump that hist the wheels even when on the inside of the rail. I put them on the back side of the rails because when ballasted you cannot see them from the aisle.
Due to questions on another thread on this topic, I'm giving this old thread a little bump.
Thanks for the helpful tutuorial, Ron. I'd like to see more of these type of threads posted by others on our forum.
Ron, the only thing I don't like is the idea of filing the tops of the rail. To me, filing or sanding adds scratches to an already smooth rail surface and helps speed up gunk accumulation - i.e. your track gets dirtier more quickly. Again, that's just me...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
modelalaska wrote:Great information. I solder my feeders to the bottom of my rail joiners, that way I don't have to worry about the wheel flanges.I will have to use your advice about appling flux rather than depend on flux in the solder... just not enough.Peter
A also solder the feeder wires to the underside of the jointer. Then with just a touch of solder connecting the rails I have a great working connection. I drill straight down thru the foam and plywood and drop the wires. You cannot see anything at all once the ballasting is done.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout