Brand new so please forgive my ignorance, but sure hope someone is willing to help me. My husband had an old Lionel train transformer 1033 with a destroyed wire. We put on a new cord and I am trying to check the transformer and track and get a locomotive running. In checking the transformer, I get sparks when U and C are touched. I also get sparks when A and B are connected. Did we do something wrong when we put the new cord on? What is my next step? According to my research, U - A or U-B should be my variable connections?????? No such luck.
Can you be a little more specific? You say, "I get sparks when U and C are touched." Touched with what? One connected to the other? Touched by the wires to the track? Likewise, "I also get sparks when A and B are connected." Connected how or to what?
Connect U to the center rail. Connect A to the outside rails. With nothing on the track, nothing should happen when you make those connections, nor when you move the control. If that is the case, next put a locomotive or lighted car on the track and turn the control up. What happens then?
Bob Nelson
Ok, I will try. Not sure of words to be clear. We connected the transformer as you mentioned. The locomotive would not run and it's light was very dim. The locomotive worked on another track so we are sure it is not the car itself. Next I went on line to try to research and it recommended checking the transformer. In the information that I found, it said to take a wire and attach one end to U and the other end to touch to A with the variable knob off and then set variable about 1/2 way and then try to touch the A terminal again. Then I tried to touch the B terminal. No sparks. Touching to C I got sparks. Next I attached one end of the same wire to A and the other end to B with variable knob off - no sparks. Variable knob set about 1/2 way one end of wire to A and other end touched to B - sparks.
You need to get a voltmeter and take measurements, then come back here.
Roger
Terminals A and U (5.5-15.5 volts) connect to the track and the voltage is varied by the control handle. If you cannot get a train to run on these terminals, then either the circuit breaker is bad, or the reverse switch on the other handle is not closing properly. Terminals B-C (10.5 volts) and A-B (5 volts) are fixed voltage posts and the control handle has no effect on them. A "spark test" should get a small spark at A-B and a larger one at B-C, even if you get no output from A-U. Here is the service information for the transformer.
Larry
I have a Wiggy D voltage tester Class 6610 Type VT-1 Series A Listed 193 F intermittent Duty Only Max 15 Sec. on -- In other words, I have not a clue. On left front it says D.C. 120, 240, 600 and on the right front it says A.C. 120, 240, 480, 600.
Meter set to A/C, 120 volts. Touch leads to posts on transformer(plugged in) a-u, b-c, etc. You may have to have the transformer wired to the track with a lighted car or something on the rails to get a proper reading. Inside the transformer, all the posts should have a wire attached to them. Sometimes these fall off.
I been following this thread, and have come to an opinion...Being new to the trains and guessing at the use of equipment, maybe it would be better to take your transformer to someone knowledgable to find out if it is good...then after that if you want to learn get some readings about the equipment and item and then do some testing ...Just an opinion..
Alank
Don't have any money and have already wasted a trip to a service dealer ($10 for gas) to have him say that it would cost me $100 for a working transformer and $45 to have this transformer "repaired". No checking to see if it worked. Just wait 8 weeks and get it repaired. Who else besides a "model train" repairman might check to see if this transformer "works"?
Jennie take the transformer and run a wire from the transformer A post to the one of the connectors to the track at this point it really don't matter. Now take another wire from the transformer U post and connect it to the other connector to the track. Plug trans former in get your volt tested and hook the wires so it will do 120 AC put one wire on one rail of track and the other on the other rail of track slowly give your transformer power by turning the handle if you get anything less than 14 volts when you get to full voltage or it doesn't rise as you turn the handle gradually you have problems with the transformer.
Just out of curiosity what is the engine type and number you husband has and if by accident the e-unit switch got moved it may be locked in neutral.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
It is a 2056 and I cannot find the e-unit switch as indicated on the diagram I found online. There is a silver slide on the top in front of the engineer's compartment. Could that be the e-unit switch?Still having no luck checking the transformer. So frustrating. Wish I knew a local person willing to just check with my voltmeter. I do feel like such an idiot, but dang I want to do this for the grandkids.,Hubby does not even know how to do the research on the computer. LOL
JeannieI have a Wiggy D voltage tester Class 6610 Type VT-1 Series A Listed 193 F intermittent Duty Only Max 15 Sec. on -- In other words, I have not a clue. On left front it says D.C. 120, 240, 600 and on the right front it says A.C. 120, 240, 480, 600.
I see a problem here.
You have a voltage tester, not a meter, 120 volts is the minimum a "WIGGY" will register.
If money is an issue you can get a very inexpensive meter at Harbor Freight or another discount tool place.
Banks, Proud member of the OTTS TCA 12-67310
Okay what you have is known as a Hudson. The metal lever on top is the control for the E-unit one direction it locks everything in the position its in the other it allows it to cycle F-N-R ( forward-neutral-reverse) any way if we had an idea where you live ( city and state there might be someone on here that could help. or close to you that you could goto with your items
Thats a nice engine. Your best bet maybe is to get a new transformer off of ebay that the seller guarantees works
Anderson, Indiana is home. Thank you for all of the help everyone. Will also check again with the local library that has a club. Maybe they know someone that would just check the transformer since we know for sure it is not the locomotive. Then e-bay. Am learning lots and look forward to sharing and continuing to learn.
Jeannie, we appreciate your wanting to get your train running, and the frustration you are having getting your train and transformer checked out. Try this procedure: Connect terminals A and U to the track and place your locomotive on the track. Slowly turn up the power and look at the headlight in front. It should go from dim to full brightness, and the loco should run, if it is not in neutral. If it does not, try moving the other (direction) lever back and forth. If still low or no brightness, then most likely the circuit breaker is bad and the transformer needs service. The other posts are fixed voltage posts for accessories, and we are not concerned about them right now. Hopefully, you may be able to get a local train club to help you if your test is not successful, or you may need to ship out the transformer for testing and repair.
Thanks again to you all. Guess we were all ignorant at one time of the knowledge needed to figure this one out and it boils down to checking out each potential problem. Laughing, looks like all of the grandchildren may be grown before I figure out this puzzle. Next step is connecting A and U and taking it from there. Think that is where I started.
It may well be you have engine problems. Could be either one. Hopefully, someone near you will help. Hobby shops usually try to sell you a new one instead of offering to fix your old one. You need to test that engine on a good known track first. Likely the engine needs a full service. Put a note in the Craigslist classifieds and see if there are any local train repairmen. Check them out though before dropping off your stuff to be fixed. Unless you have someone around who can service post war trains I recommend buying a new one. They do not require the servicing that post war equipment does.
No money and just a lady that is determined to show my grandkids this particular train set. The locomotive is fine. That has been checked. If I cannot get it going, I will have tried and will just write about my experience and leave it with the box of track to tell them about my adventure. Will be sharing this thread, too. Should give them a chuckle and then they can shred the paper and recycle the metal!Thanks again to ALL!!!!
Latest update -- Wired U and C to track. Got locomotive to go forward and backward although very slowly. Light was on, too. I think when we put the new cord on the transformer, we messed up. Anyway, I will not give up just yet.
Jennie contact me at lionel027kline@yahoo.com might have an idea to help
Prefer to stay on the public page. Paranoid old lady that has been hacked. Don't understand how all of that stuff happens. I am proceeding with cleaning everything one step at a time now that I know that the transformer is working.
I understand I was going to offer you a working tramsformer for shipping only But would need a address not sure how old grand kids are but if I can help get them interested I'm all for it. And willing to help as I can.
Bill Rifenbury
I already have been giving an offer to pay for the shipping by another on here I understand your hesident of sharing info and you have to be today. But you have a great group of guys/gals here that love to promote railroading any way they can. all on here know I buy a lot on ebay and in return When I can I will help someone get it going had a guy having problem with an engine told him to pay shipping I would give him some track ( he also had competely rusted track ) what I didn't tell him was I was sending an engine so his son could start running trains also
Thank you so very much for this offer. I am going to take a couple of days to continue my attempt to solve this problem with cleaning and then I may have it narrowed down to what I need. LOL So glad to have found you and know I will be turning to you for help again soon. Sorry about not responding sooner, but did not get an e-mail notification or else I missed it.
What you need to do is hook up terminals A and U to the track and try your locomotive. That is the only terminal combination that the control handle will vary the voltage to. If your loco does not run properly, then the circuit breaker is probably at fault. Unplug the transformer and open it up. The circuit breaker is on top, between the 2 shafts for the handles. You will see one copper wire with a black insulation sleeve connected to it. The other connection is post 'B' of the transformer. Take a short, heavy gauge wire and temporarily connect both the wires together securely. Put the transformer back together. Make sure the control handle is in the off position. Plug in the transformer and slowly turn up the control handle. Your locomotive should now run properly. If it does, shut off the transformer and unplug it. The circuit breaker is definitely bad and needs to be replaced. Do not run your train for more than just a test withiut an operating circuit breaker. If the loco still does not run, try moving the 'Direction' handle back and forth with the power on. Sometimes the direction control switch is at fault. You need to do this to isolate the problem. Cleaning alone may not find or solve your problem.
TrainLarry...hook up terminals A and U to the track and try your locomotive. That is the only terminal combination that the control handle will vary the voltage to...
B-U will also give variable voltage(0-11 volts) to the track.
Rob
Technically correct, Rob, however posts A-U, with the higher voltage output, are generally used to run the trains.
Is anyone willing to explain to me why only a track connection to U/C enables the locomotive to move at all? I have not had a chance to try checking the breaker switch yet. It does seem to make sense to me that it is probably the problem. Another transformer to move forward until this one is repaired, huh???
in all honesty if you connect one wire to an outside rail and one wire to a middle rail you should be able to move the train. I have forced and solder wires to the bottom slit in the rails many times and had no problem.
Like I said I gave you my email address email me and I'll send you a transformer I know works and you can either keep it or you can return it if you want ( I don't care honestly) if you get yours working correctly. I'll even send you a couple of lock-on's to connect your wires to.
Most of us love to help someone get back into the hobby.
B and C are the two ends of the 11-volt main winding. U is connected (through the reversing and whistle switch) to the wiper that moves from one end to the other of that main winding. When B and U are connected to the track rails, the voltage between those two terminals is proportional to how far the wiper is from the B end. Similarly, the voltage between C and U is proportional to how far the wiper is from the C end. When you use C and U, I'll bet the control works backwards; that is, you get the most voltage when the control is fully counterclockwise, which is the opposite of normal operation.
Here is an experiment that will tell you whether you have an open circuit breaker: First check to verify that you get no spark between A and C under any circumstance. If you do, do not proceed further. If not, unplug the transformer and connect A and C together. Then connect B and U to the two track rails. Turn the control fully clockwise. Now plug in the transformer very briefly, watching for fireworks and listening for loud humming. If everything is calm, then, with the transformer unplugged, put the locomotive on the track. Plug in again. The locomotive may try to move. Turn the control counterclockwise to see whether the locomotive speeds up. Be ready to unplug if the locomotive won't stop and is in danger of running off the end of the track.
If the locomotive ran, the circuit breaker is probably the problem and should be replaced. But in any case, do not use the transformer until you get it fixed. The way I told you to wire it is not safe, since it defeats the purpose of the circuit breaker and should only be done, very carefully, as an experiment to diagnose the problem.
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