So how did you remove the motor for cleaning? I have a 624 that I just acquired and was wondering what the best way was to remove the motor so I can re-grease the gear box and clean the armature and brushes.
All,
Thanks for the compliments on this one. I haven't been able to get a video done yet.
Brent,
I started to think the same thing after I got it back together. Oh well, that gives me a reason to buy another rough 624.
Jim,Looks great. Wish you would have stuck with original Blue and Yellow C&O scheme, but other than that it looks wonderful!
Jim,
That baby is factory fresh, of the late forties and early fifties.
Great work.
Take care,
Ralph
Well done Jim, look's good.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Looks good.
Great job, Jim! You really do good work
RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
Looks great Jim
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
I just got everything back together a few minutes ago. First some shots of the chasis.
Notice that the rusty collector arms and eunit shield have been replaced with clean originals. The slider shoe has also been replaced.
Here is the body after being decaled.
Here is the end result.
The marker lights are the same ones that were covered in paint. The Super Clean took it right off.
I'd like to thank Jeff K. and everyone else who has provided support and encouragement throughout this project. I'll be back with a video of the first run asap.
After taking some time off from this project, I began reinstalling some of the trim. All four lenses, the radio whell, bell, and handrails at the rear of the cab are back in place. I still need to get the remaining parts and decals.
Mike,
I already painted and installed the stacks.
If you're going with a 622/6220 and are replacing the yellow stacks with black ones from Jeff, I'm interested in buying the yellow ones if they are original.
Let me know, my e-mail is patriot090atcomcastdotnet.
Mike
I presume from your reply, that you intend on making your switcher a 622. I checked and found the decals for the 624 at four parts dealers, including (Jeff) TTender.com. The others are MytrainpartsUSA.com, Smittystoytrainparts.com, and Hollashtrains.com. The decals are listed in the parts sections under 624-8, 624-9, or 6248/9 combo. This is if you want to stick with the 624 identity. Overall, for parts etc., the cheapest prices seem to be TTender, compared to the others. It all depends on what part you need, as to who has the item. The other parts dealers are Olsens toy train parts, and Dr. Tinker. Some obscure items may only be found at one particular dealer, and not the others. There are others I have dealt with on Ebay with great success also.
Jerry
Jerry,
No problem.
All parts are now painted, although I saw some dry spots on the body that will be fixed after the paint cures for 7 days as per the directions on the can. I'd try to fix it sooner, but I don't want all this work ruined by crazing.
Next step is to get the parts from Jeff. I saw that he has all the lettering available in decals, but only for the 622, so that is what I'll go with. I am thinking of throwing a bell truck in to make a true 622, but that'll add another $80 to the project.
Thanks for the answer, but I went ahead and soaked my 2034 shell with great results. I got all the paint off in roughly 3 1/2 hours of soaking full strength "Castrol Super Clean". If anyone needs to strip paint from Lionel rolling stock, the Super Clean is definitely the way to go. Next step is complete washdown in hot soapy water, followed by thorough drying, and then I can get to repaint. Would like to see the final product of you 624 when you finish it. Thanks again for the reply.
balidas,
The switchers you have are a later series with a different two position reversing unit and a double wound field. I am not familar with those.
teledoc,
These soaked for about 20 hours, but the paint might have come off before that point. I wasn't home to check on them.
Thanks. As for the stealth bit, you know how I roll.
The frame is done, and I am waiting for it to dry. The stacks still need sprayed. I found an original eunit drum and shield in one of my parts bins to replace the damaged drum and rusty shield, so that will keep the cost down.
JT - You going for a Stealth look? Looking good!
Love the final picture after the stripping, and wonder how long you let it soak in Super Clean. I have a 2034 shell that I need to strip and repaint, and have the Super Clean for stripping. Just want to know how long I have to keep it soaking. Your 624 should look good after your done.
Mine is a ATSF Santa F, black body white lettering # 616. It doesn't have the classification lights up front, not even the bosses, just a headlight. It doesn't have the big wheel in front either and has non-operating couplers.
When power is applied to the track, the loco just buzzes, no matter what position the lever. When I first got it in '04, it would jerk & stutter then just quit. That was when I was just starting to get back into the hobby. Lately I've been reading the posts on maintenance & what not, so soon I'll open it up & see what's going on.
I have a 2nd switcher. It's a red MKT 8460. Looks to be of a later manufacture, maybe from the MPC era.
What is the number on your switcher? All the motor in this one needed was a light cleaning and oil on both bearings and it took off. The eunit needs rebuilt, but I am not that far yet. Those are always fun...
Here is a quick picture of the body as it is right now:
Hey check out this listing from the same seller you see anything wrong? Its an normal thing from him. This is why he blocked me as I told him he needed to find someone that knew the differences in train scales to list instead of just letting anyone list what ever as what ever.
http://cgi.ebay.com/LIONEL-O-27-STRAIGHT-TRACK-CLEAN-10-PCS-/190510705948?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2c5b52ad1c
I don't think you can get it any cleaner then that! Looks great! I believe you will end up with a fine switcher when you're done.
I also have a similar switcher that, although postwar, is different then your's. I'll be looking at how you fix the motor & electrical as mine does not work.
That came out beautiful.it looks factory fresh.
I hope you have luck with the parts, prices and repairs.
Looking good Jim that soaking got it looking real good.
Here is the result of the Super Clean soaking:
Here is what the inside looked like when I first took the body off the frame:
I am thinking of maybe removing the staked studs holding the lamp bracket and tapping the chasis for machine screws. That would make servicing the motor easier.
The body has been painted with Satin Black Krylon Fusion, and the frame and stacks will be sprayed while it is curing.
I still have to get in touch with Jeff to get the parts needed.
After I typed that last post, this whole thing started to bother me more. I couldn't stand the thought of throwing in the towel just yet. I was able to solder the broken field wire together and get the motor cleaned and lubed. Someone had the thrust washers mixed up as well. I was impressed with how smoothly this motor ran when I got it back together. That was all I needed to get motivated to see this through.
I've got the painted parts soaking in Super Clean right now.
Brake fluid should remove the paint.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
There is a guy, the motor doctor, who does rewinds and motor over hauls, but he isn't cheap. You could ask him and see. You may be right, it might not be worth fixing it. I ran into that with a 2344 A-A set. I have at least twice what the units are worth, and probably more in them. I would not do it again.
Roger
I've done more digging, and more problems have been found. The worst is the the wire from the field to the lug on the motor base is cut midway between the field and lug. I've never seen this before. The armature bearing also has a lot of slop. I am not sure if I want to continue with this. I've gone down this road with an AF 326 Hudson where I put way too much money in and get nothing from it.
I'll probably just wait until my tax refund shows and find a decent 623 from a decent seller.
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