Inconsistent Automatic Gateman

[jwilharm]

My Automatic Gateman is very inconsistent.  It will work for about 5 times around, then not work at all.  After I mess around with the Adjustment Nut, it will finally work for about 5 more times.  But then it will go back and not work at all. 

Any suggestions on how to fix? 

[EIS2]

What do you mean by inconsistent?  Does it not open or does it not close?  If it doesn't open, make sure you have sufficient power to the gateman.  If you are using track power and operating in conventional mode, the power might be insufficient. 

Good Luck...

Earl

[jwilharm]

It opens about 5 times in a row, then it will not open for a while.  Then it will open 5 more times, then not open.  That's what I meant by inconsistent. 

I also have the crossing gate and Crossing flasher attached to this simple oval track.  Maybe the power is insufficient.  If it is, what can i do to increase the power?

Thanks.   

[lionelsoni]

"Insufficient power" should read "insufficient voltage".  You may need to power the accessory from a fixed accessory voltage higher than the track voltage.  This is not difficult (unless you have a CW80 transformer).  What do you have?

[EIS2]

When the gateman does open, does it snap open or just slowly open?  When it doesn't open, does it look like it is trying to open? 

 It sounds like the gateman is not getting sufficient voltage and combined with the added resistance of heat after five cycles just doesn't open again until it cools.

Earl

[Anonymous]

Then again, you mention the "adjustment nut" so I assume you're using the #153C contact switch under the track to actuate the gateman.  This is a normally troublesome way to power accessories and it might be more reliable to use an insulated section of track to activate the #45.

 

Bruce Webster

[brianel027]

As an experiement, try unhooking everything else off the transformer, and operating the gateman alone to see if you get more consistant operation of it. If so, then your problem is not enough amperage on your transformer.

Although Lionel made many smaller transformers, those units are suitable for running the train alone with maybe one or two trackside accessories, like gatemen. But this would be dependant on how many lighted cars were on the track and the type of locomotive. DC can motored locos draw less current to operate than does a loco with an AC open frame motor like the Lionel Pullmor motor.

Another trick would be if you have a small transformer, is to get another small one (usually very cheap) and run the accessories off that using switches/buttons instead of a track activator. Or to use an electronic device like the MTH Scale ITAD activator, which I have and works pretty well.... much better than a track activator.

[railroadnut675]

Hi,I don't (or haven't yet) gotten an electric crossing guard . Which one should I get

[jwilharm]

"Insufficient power" should read "insufficient voltage".  You may need to power the accessory from a fixed accessory voltage higher than the track voltage.  This is not difficult (unless you have a CW80 transformer).  What do you have?

I have the Trainmaster Toy Transformer (model 4050) that came with the Rock Island set back in 1975.  I have 3 accessories hooked up to it - the Automatic Gateman (via a 153C contactor), the Automatic Highway Flasher (via a 154C contactor) and the Automatic Crossing Gate (via a 153C contactor).  

Do you think this Transformer can't handle that many accessories? 

[Kooljock1]

First thing, toss all of those weight activated contactors and replace with insulated rail sections!

The #4050 is a 45 watt transformer. The #4090 is 90 watts. If the accessories are all running at different times, the wattage should be enough. But if they're all being triggered at once, you might have a problem.

What are you using for train power? Not the same unit I hope!

I use accessory power and insulated rails to run my Gateman and all of my flashers and gates, and they fire every time!

Jon

[lionelsoni]

If you are powering the accessories from the track and the train is going as fast as you want it to, using a bigger transformer won't change anything.  Instead, you would need to use a separate, higher, accessory voltage for the accessories, whether from your present trransformer if it provides one or from another transformer.

[jwilharm]

First thing, toss all of those weight activated contactors and replace with insulated rail sections!

The #4050 is a 45 watt transformer. The #4090 is 90 watts. If the accessories are all running at different times, the wattage should be enough. But if they're all being triggered at once, you might have a problem.

What are you using for train power? Not the same unit I hope!

I use accessory power and insulated rails to run my Gateman and all of my flashers and gates, and they fire every time!

Jon

Thanks Jon.  Yes, I use the #4050 for both train and accessory power.  Are you recommending that I purchase a separate transformer for accessory power?  If so, what do you recommend I purchase?

Thanks.   

[traindaddy1]

I have had the same problem and I know exactly what you are talking about. Last year I read a post that suggested that the problem was with the 153C Contactor. Their suggestion was to replace it with a 153IR Controller (List price $36.99). For me, a 'lot' of $.

I replaced the original 153C with an unused spare that I had and it has been working almost flawlessly. (There are the occassional times that the little guy runs in and out twice while the train is passing but this usually happens when the train is running very slowly.)

My try another 153C. Good luck.

 

[lionelsoni]

Before you buy anything, try turning the voltage up all the way, with the locomotive off the track.  Then push the train across the 153C.  If the problem is still there, it is with the 153C, which would better be replaced with an insulated rail.  (Not a bad idea in any case.)  If the problem goes away, it probably was that the voltage the train needs to go the speed you want is just not enough for the gateman.  In that case, you could run the train faster, or put a voltage dropping component in series with the track, or, the simplest, get another transformer for the gateman and set it to a higher voltage.

[Kooljock1]

I'd bump the #4050 to Accessory Only status, and get another transformer to run the train. If you're just running a small loop and one train, then a #4090 or 1033/1044 should do the trick. If you're looking for more modern power, the K-Line 110 watt transformer is a good choice, as are the most recent batch of CW-80 (with the 0906 code or newer on the bottom!).

Bigger Post War power such as a ZW might be overkill, but I rarely have come across a layout with too much power! A KW might be a good compromise.

Jon

[Postwar gary]

I have the same issue. door opens 5 times in a row and the doesn't open. I figure that the 153c contractor is the issue. I changed the 153c and  it works for a while and then quits. Any ideas?

[bobhwalker]

Mechanical contactors are the least reliable signalling method. IR detectors are better. The January 2008 issue of CTT magazine has a good article on this subject.

[mersenne6]

Well it's no wonder Gary.  I mean how would you like it if some character insisted every time a train came by your front door you drop whatever your doing and dash outside? Cut the guy some slack - run the train on a different route.