K-line Plymouth vs. Ready Made Toys-- Beeps

[poppyl]

I have no experience with Lionel switches and Beeps, but as I said in my earlier post, hooking two Beeps together will do the trick. Correcting the problem with the switch is not a bad idea, either, as it will help all locos run better through the switch. I hate to say this but the "cheaper" switches are more prone to this -- probably due to poorer quality and quality control. I fixed several Gargraves switches by realigning track, flattening frogs, and filing down plastic areas that stuck up too far. All of these caused the Beep to jump and short.

[brianel027]

Yes John, the Crayola version was just a slightly cheaper version on the same loco with no circuit board. All these locos were very light (although the regular run locos did have one piece of weight added) and all were unpainted plastic... most not very opaque due to low amount of color pellets added to the plastic.

As mentioned previous, my Lionel 027 switches have had some heavy chopping done to them. I also ran new feeder wired and made sure all points and rails on the turnouts had proper power. So once I added more weight to my Industrial Switchers and removed the traction tire, I had little problem with stalling. And I'm sure the wheelbase is no longer on the Ind. Switcher than it is with the Beep. When I did have stalling, I knew it was time to either clean the loco wheels or the track.

Since going to DC operation and removing the circuit boards, the performance has gotten better. Although DC operation does have it's drawback for certain, it has tremendous plusses for the types of lower end locomotives than I can afford and run.



This photo is maybe 7-8 years old, but shows one of my redone Lionel Ind. Switchers. I added actual headlights and cablight, handrails. The windows are made from drafting mylar though I have since used the plastic from gallon milk jugs for this job. I have since drilled out a cone opening into the plastic molded horn, and have painted the steps white. In my excitement to get this loco done, I grabbed the wrong hearld decal... I accidentally used the older CNJ Liberty logo. The car behind it is one of my own "Toxic Waste" cars, from a 9-inch Lionel MPC flat car, using repainted/decaled K-Line crates with plastic domes from Radio Shack drilled into the top with 6volt minature CHRISTmas flashing bulbs inside. The warning signs on the sides are made from "L" shaped Plastruct with the labels made on my computer: printed on newspaper industry coated stock, glossed and glued on.

[Jumijo]

Brian,

If I haven't said so already, I think you do a heck of a job modifying your trains. Seeing them is a real treat, and always gives me inspiration to attempt a repaint of my own! [tup]

Jim

[brianel027]

Hey one more important point I should have mentioned

Early on, I noticed my Industrial Switchers were "changing gears" as they went over uncoupling tracks and Lionel switches. They'd be running forward, and then stall into neutral. I looked at the locomotive and realized that the roller pick ups did not have much room before they could touch the wheel axles. I wondered if the bumps in these tracks was causing the center roller to come into contact with the wheel axle, thus causing a momentary short, and therefore sequencing the reverse board.

So using either drafting mylar, styrene or shirt cardboard I fashion a narrow piece maybe 1/2 wide and long enough to reach both axles. I inserted this between the roller pickups and the axles, managing to insert this piece through the slots already in the plastic superstructure.

Whoa and behold, the problem with the e-unit sequencing was gone.

Now that I use DC current, this is no longer a concern, but might help some of you out. I realized a couple of my older Lionel Scout steamers were doing the same thing. So I pulled off the roller pickups and put pickups on the tender, running a wire soldered to the brass contact for the roller pickups and running the wire to the tender with a male/female plug between the two and enough wire that I can tuck it into the tender cab.

Just another pointer that might help some of you.

[Anonymous]

A lot of very informative stuff here about the BEEPS. Please allow me to add
a few idea? I have many different models of these locos. I first got a few of the
Williams models. He had better (longer reach) placement of the pickup rollers,
two can motors, and a BUNCH of lead weight instead of traction tires. Mine will
almost pull trees down! I had a coupler swing issue (before it was fashionable)
and fixed it like everyone else by enlarging the sing opening on the pilot. I then
purchased a few of the TaylorMade models (including the "L" ones) and motorized
them with both the seperate-sale power chassis and an old Williams chassis
(which are straight drop-ins). The newer Taylor chassis had a problem with
shorter distance between the power rollers and sometimes (rarely) stalled on
my Lionel PreWar 022 switches (Yup!) These chassis have a traction tire on them
and my solution was to add weight (fishing sinkers) to the inside of the shell to
make the loco sit "tighter" on the rails. I used sinkers because a) they ar readily
available in my area and b) they come in several sizes and if you buy small ones
you can easily find places to fit the weights without interfering with wiring, e-
units, etc. and you can distribute the weight a little better than lead blocks.

After weighting mine down I have had no problems with stalling or derailing.
As for the newer chassis with the shorter rollers, the only solution I can think of
is to MU or add a "roller car" as others have done. Maybe this is an item to be
brought to the attention of Walter Matuch at York? He is a nice guy and seems
interested in his customers.

Thanks