397 coal loader

[Anonymous]

I am trying to replace the rubber belt on my loader, I have it apart down to taking one end off the shaft running thru the red plastic base. Neither end will come off as they seem to be pressed on and there is not enough area to grasp them to pull them off, HELP!

[eZAK]

[#welcome]Ron70,

The 2 bearings and cam should come off the drive shaft.
Exactly how? I'll have to check my book and get back to you.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by eZAK

[#welcome]Ron70,

The 2 bearings and cam should come off the drive shaft.
Exactly how? I'll have to check my book and get back to you.

Thanks Pat, hope you can enlighten me on how this is done as I am stumped for now. Cheers Ron

[wrmcclellan]

Ron,

Normally you can find 397 online drawing here:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=297

However, when I went there just now, the links to the pdfs were not working. You may want to check later as maybe Olsen's has a temporary server problem.

I no longer have one of these units, but as I recall you did not have to remove the bearings, etc., to replace the belt.

[laz 57]

Yes you have to remove the four screws holding on the bearings after that there is a spring under the conveyor belt and you need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the spring. Replace belt then put back together.
laz57

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by laz 57

Yes you have to remove the four screws holding on the bearings after that there is a spring under the conveyor belt and you need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the spring. Replace belt then put back together.
laz57

The unit I have requires a bit more dismantling to replace the belt. I have done all the things you mentioned but still need to take the wheel off the top of the conveyor and remove the end caps on the lower end to remove the lower wheel for the conveyor belt. Wish it was as easy as your experiance with these units. Cheers Ron

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by wrmcclellan

Ron,

Normally you can find 397 online drawing here:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=297

However, when I went there just now, the links to the pdfs were not working. You may want to check later as maybe Olsen's has a temporary server problem.

I no longer have one of these units, but as I recall you did not have to remove the bearings, etc., to replace the belt.

Thanks for the reply, I did go there and sure enough no luck. Will try again later. Cheers Ron

[Anonymous]

Ron70.

The pictures on the Olsen site should help when they come up again, but there are several additional things that might help. I am assuming that you have a postwar version rather than a modern one.

Consider getting professional help with this project. When these items were new, replacing the belt was relatively easy, but when they get old and rusted (see 3 below) it can be quite a challenge.

1. With a soft pencil (or whatever works) mark the parts so that you can reassemble them exactly as they are now. This is particularly true of the cams and the bearing blocks.

2. Do not try to remove the drive coupling from it's end of the shaft. The drive coupling is the brass element with the two short prongs that engage the rubber flexible coupling. Try to do whatever parts-removal at the other end of the shaft.

3. The bearing blocks generally present no difficulty. The problem is with the cams. You only need to remove the one that is on the far side of the tray, away from the motor, In my experience it is not "pressed on," but what often happens is that it gets rusted stuck to the square drive shaft.

4. Depending on the extent to which this has happened, you will need to apply penetrating oil and perhaps a little heat. Sometimes the application of heat on the cam and cold to the shaft will get it loose. You may need at least 3 hands.

5. Be VERY careful about prying. You do NOT want to break the plastic tray. See whether it is possible to hold the square shaft with pliers or small vise-grips and grab the cam and pull or tap it. Be patient. Let penetrating oil work at least overnight -- re-applications of oil over as much as a WEEK may be required.

6. Be sure that the square drive-shaft is as free from rust and corrosion as possible so that once you get the cam loose it will slide off easily.

7. Keep the penetrating oil, and certainly any heat, off of the plastic tray.

8. If all else fails, it may be possible to cut the cam off with a cutting-disk on a Dremel tool. The cam is very hard, however, and this would not be easy.

9. If a cam gets damaged, be sure to buy a pair and replace both at the same time -- otherwise they will not necessarily work together and the coal will not dance up the tray properly but will simply bunch up on one side.

10. If you get at least one cam off without damage to it or the drive shaft, be sure to grease the parts before reassembling them. Since the shaft and the hole in the cam are square, you don't have to worry about the cam spinning on a greased shaft, but you need to prevent further rusting.

Hope this helps. (Don't break that plastic tray!)

wolverine49

[wrmcclellan]

Ron,

The top axle is held on with a clip and should be easy to remove. This allows you to remove the shield assembly. As LAZ says, remove the bearing screws. Then you should be able to work the old belt off.

Good luck.
Roy

[Anonymous]

Thanks wolverine, that was the type info I was looking for. None of my parts are damaged or rusted and I am soaking them in penetrating oil, I thought that was the only way I would get them loose and you just verified that. Cheers Ron