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Lionel 2332 GG1 Century Club Version - Operating Issues

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  • Member since
    July 2021
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Lionel 2332 GG1 Century Club Version - Operating Issues
Posted by trainlivebob on Saturday, September 24, 2022 3:47 PM

Just got a Lionel 2332 Century Club GG1.  Like many, it was hardly used, like new and probably was in storage for awhile.  It took a lot of voltage to move, so I lubricated it per the owners manual.  Nothing in the manual showed to lube the pull-mor motor gear box, just the exposed gears and axles.  Im not sure how to access it, especially with lots of electronics around it.

Anyway, it ran better but still requires about 2 volts more to get going than my PW engines.  Im comparing it mostly to my 2343 F3 since it has 2 motors.  So it takes a lot more voltage than that one. Also, I've had trouble with derailment of the consist with this engine.  The same consist I pulled with my 2343 with no derailments and smooth running has derailments around curves with the GG1.  It can occur when the GG1 is on the straighaway, and the consist is on a 42 inch curve, 5-6 cars back.  or it can occur just a few cars back from the engine.  Very strange.

Im running 027 track profile, conventional PW transformer. 

Can this engine be the cause of the derailments? (maybe speed variation through curves).  Does it need a lot more break-in time to be more efficient?  Could the grease in the gear box be dried up from 1998?

Just some of my thoughts.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Henrico, VA
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Posted by Flintlock76 on Saturday, September 24, 2022 4:07 PM

trainlivebob
Could the grease in the gear box be dried up from 1998?

From what I've seen in on-line videos I'd say the gearbox grease is definately dried up and the drive train needs to be cleaned thoroughly and re-greased, preferably with a synthetic that won't dry out or gum up.  Anything that's sat in a box unused or little used for 20+ years should be suspect. 

Your GG1 may be "bucking" due to the old lube and causing the derailing.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that Century Club GG1 so I can't tell you how to get in there past the wiring.  Maybe someone else has some advice? 

Honestly, when I get under the shell of anything made since the year 2000 I'm shocked at the "rat's nest" of wiring under the skin.  My 30 years of copier service makes dealing with it a bit easier though. I'd still rather work with a post-war! 

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Posted by trainlivebob on Saturday, September 24, 2022 5:02 PM

Thanks, me too. PW is easy.

I thought maybe lionel grease from 1998 was of a higher quality than PW, that it would still be good.

I would have bought postwar GG1 but could not find a nice looking one at a resonable price.  All the stripes disappear over time.

So Im willing to dig into it but just need a service manual.  It not obvious how to get the truck off the motor.  It looks like it may be one screw (like PW) but there is no way to remove it easily.  It looks like they didn't want anyone cracking it open.

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Posted by Leverettrailfan on Saturday, September 24, 2022 9:43 PM

trainlivebob
It not obvious how to get the truck off the motor.  It looks like it may be one screw (like PW) but there is no way to remove it easily.  It looks like they didn't want anyone cracking it open.


Care to be more specific about what makes it hard to get at the screw? Or was that just about getting the motor up and out?
I did a quick web search that turned up this OGR forum post, it seems like it may hold the answers you seek:
https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/century-club-gg1

-Ellie

"Unless bought from a known and trusted dealer who can vouch otherwise, assume every train for sale requires servicing before use"

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    July 2021
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Posted by trainlivebob on Tuesday, September 27, 2022 10:42 AM

Ellie,

Thanks for the link.

Once I printed out the exploded parts view, I found the truck mounting screw hidden underneath the collector and insulator.  Then it became somewhat simple to get to the gear box.

I can now confirm that the grease from 1998 did indeen dry up a lot.  After cleaning out the grease and putting new in, (and oiling the armature), it works like a champ.  I almost lost one of the bearing spacers mentioned in the link.  It must have pulled out with the motor and landed between the truck and frame out of sight.  I thought it was missing and was causing the binding.  However I saw witness marks that it was there.  So I kept looking and found it hidden with the magnetration pull.

In the end, it runs 2-3 volts lower. Very smooth and quiet for a pullmor motor.

Thanks for your help.

Bob

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