Postwar 634 NW2

[guitarman1994]

Howdy all,

Back in September, I dropped off my switcher for the only guy in town that I know of to fix it. It did not run. nothing at all. I got it back today with high hopes and hoping I would have another loco to run around. I picked it up at the shop with a note saying that its not fixed and a red coil wire is broken. The only option I have left is to fix it my self. What all does it take to fix the coil?

Thanks,

Brody

[ADCX Rob]

There are 6 coils of wire on a 634 - three on the armature, two on the field, and one on the reverse unit.  Was he any more specific than just "red"?  The field wires are usually red and green on the 634...  I can guide you through the repair or give you options with a little more info.

[TRAINCAT]

Send it to me for repair. I hate when train shops do that to people. Many hope you will just buy a new one from them. It definately does not make for loyal customers.
Roger

[guitarman1994]

Rob- Its the red and green coil on the motor itself.

Trainrat- This was not just a train shop. The shop is full of old vintage toys, including postwar Lionel. The owner has 3000 pieces of his collection in the back of the store. He offered to work on the loco for me since he used to do that as a profession.

[TRAINCAT]

There are a few creative ways to fix a field coil problem. If there is a little bit left of the short wire you can make a jumper. If not, you may be able to unwind one turn and reconnect the short wire. That guy who used to repair trains should have told you that.
Roger.

[guitarman1994]

There are also other wires not soldered. There are 2 that are on the E-unit that go to nowhere. Then there is a wire coming from what I think is the ground on top of the motor housing (I have not been around this very long to know everything).

Brody

[TRAINCAT]

It sounds to me like your engine has been victimized by a previous owner who did not know what he was doing. My offer stands to repair your engine for the price of parts only.
Roger

[guitarman1994]

This was my uncle's. I am not sure how he used it but it was not good when I got it. I was really hoping to get it running. Is there a diagram of where to solder the wires to?

Brody

[ADCX Rob]

Where it looks like two wires are connected to "motor ground", they are not.  They are just connected here as a convenient spot to locate a solder tab for the junction.  That tab is insulated from the motor and the screw with a plastic grommet/shoulder washer.  Here is the diagram for that 634:

[TRAINCAT]

For a novice train guy the double windings can be very difficult to wire up because of where the colored wires go. It is not as simple as the picture which does not show that.

[cwburfle]

If one coil of the double wound field is OK, and the other is bad, the easiest fix is to install a three position e-unit. Use one that has a long downward lever.

[guitarman1994]

I can't even find the other end of the broken coil... The diagram has me confused. I understand some of it. Maybe I will have to tell Uncle Tony that both of his locomotives will not work. Thanks for the replies, guys.

Brody

[cwburfle]

The field coil (wrapped around the metal outside of the motor) should have four wires coming out. Normally two are twisted together. The twisted pair gets attached to one of the brush holders.  The other two are connected to a pair of insulated terminals on the motor, Insulated wired runs from those terminals to the terminals on the side of the reversing unit.

A wire runs from the power truck pickups to the other brush holder.

 

It sounds like some of the field coil wires are broken off.

As has already been described, if a short piece of wire is sticking out of the center of the field windings, an additional piece can be spliced on. Unfortunately, it is common for the wires to break off right where they exit the coil. If the outer end of the winding is broken off, no harm is done if one unwraps a turn or two to get a fresh end.

Replacement motor trucks for your engine are out there. Whether it pays to get one would depend on the condition of the rest of the engine,

[Train-O]

guitarman1994,

Be sure to use a low voltage soldering iron/gun!!!!!

I messed up my uncles fiber board on his Texas Special F3, as pictured in this "Classic Toy Trains" forums' masthead, because I did NOT know any better and I used a wrong, strong powered Weller Soldering Gun, that my father gave me.  My father used to build and repair radios, phonographs and television sets, back in the '40's and '50's and he would have known what was the proper procedure.
But, I did not seek his expert help!!!!!!

Oh, yeah!
I had to take the locomotive to my local hobby shop and pay for a replacement part!!!!!!! 

Good Luck,

Train-O 

[cwburfle]

I use a Weller 100/140 soldering gun for most work on Postwar Lionel.

 

[Train-O]

cwburfle,

I'm sorry for getting off of the main topic, but I'm curious to know the approximate time period you bought your soldering gun, as my father bought two Weller Soldering Guns of different wattages, sometime in the fifties and the last time I used them was about fifteen years ago and they both worked beautifully, like Lionel Pre and Post War Trains?!!!!!!

I haven't used them since, as they are packed away, I don't remember the wattages of them and I'm trying to avoid damaging any old and new goodies!!!!!!!!!!!

Train-O

[cwburfle]

I've been using Weller soldering guns for about forty years.

I believe they make three models. I have seen ads for a small model at about 700 watts, but I have never used that one.
The most common model seems to be the 100/140 watt model. I see these are garage sales and estate sales all the time. The oldest ones have a spring strain relief around the cord. Older models use hex shaped nuts to hold the tips in place.
Newer models use a set screw. I don't care for the set screw type because I find that the tips loosen up.

Weller also made (makes) a larger model which is something like 240/325 watts and has a much heavier tip. I have one, but I cannot think of the last time I used it.

I find that these guns are no good on printed circuit boards. I use a  small to medium sized soldering iron for boards. Over the years I have accumulated quite an assortment. I like Ungar modular  irons.

I am familiar with three lines: Standard, Princess, and Imperial.

[TRAINCAT]

Not meant to insult anyone, but you should NEVER go anywhere near electronics with a soldering gun. They are meant for big jobs and tinning wires. AS a long time electronics tech with solder certifications
I have seen so many things ruined that unskilled and sometimes trained people, destroyed with too much wattage irons. For train work, with the exeption of soldering wires to rails, a 30 to 40 watt iron is all you will ever need. CW I know you have exceptional skills, but most people should never use the guns. Buy a sears or Weller iron.
Roger

[cwburfle]

Not meant to insult anyone, but you should NEVER go anywhere near electronics with a soldering gun.

No insult taken, I agree with you 100 percent.

I like using a gun because the tip heats up and cools in seconds.
There aren't any electronics in a 634, or most other postwar Lionel pieces.
But there are various parts that do not take well to excessive heat.
The solder terminals on the 2 position e-unit, and the headlight socket in a 634 come to mind. 
 

[Train-O]

trainrat,

If, I only knew, or at least spoke to my father, before working on my uncle's Texas Special, my uncles locomotive wire would have been repaired, correctly and the loco. would have been up and running.

In addition, I would have saved myself about $34.00, for the replacement part!!!!

Ralph