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Totally Dead 1033 transformer

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Totally Dead 1033 transformer
Posted by Prairietype on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 11:58 AM

I really hope someone on this forum may have some insight about a transformer that seems to be completely dead.

This is the first transformer that I've ever encountered that seems to be completely dead.  I have some experience with these 90 watters, as we use them extensively on a Mall layout in Olathe, Kansas.  Although I am not a licensed electrician, I have repaired a number of Lionel transformers of many types.  (I'm not trying to brag, but rather indicate that I am familar with repairing and the common old postwar issues.

I also had this transformer in the shop of a Lionel repair shop, and this man could not determine what is awry.

For starts:  1) Although old, it is in good physical shape; i.e., it shows no evidence of breakage, or, corrosion due to age. 2) All soldering is original and very apparently untouched, except I replaced the cord which was cracked with exposed wire.  My new soldering connections are good and tight, and I tested the connection for a spark which shows there is electrical current.

So do any of you have any suggestions/ideas what the problem might be? Do transformers just die? 

I think this is odd, because transformers are basically not that complex, and a 1033 is pretty basic, straightforward, rugged and dependable? 

I'll reallly appreciate information about this problem.

Prairietype

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted by Curmudgeon on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 12:38 PM

First, I would check the new power cable. UNPLUGGED, ohmmeter the prongs back to the solder joints. Yeah, you'll read through the windings of the primary, but if the cord works, both prongs will show good continuity.

Second, U to anything show power?

If so, just no variable, wiper not making contact with secondary windings or contact in hub.

Circuit breaker toast (or solder bad), reverse lever contacts not working.

You are right, simple, reliable, not rocket science, if all of the above check out, probably transformer itself, but not seen much of that unless they are black.

Where you soldered the new power cord on, make sure the primary wires didn't come loose.

And, did it work before the new power cord went in?

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Posted by cwburfle on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 2:58 PM

This post reminds me of an incident from a couple of years ago.
A fellow brought me his transformer after he replaced the power cord because it no longer worked.

Sadly, during his preparation efforts, while cleaning up th eyelets to receive the new cord, he accidentally broke off the primary wires, right at the core.

I don't know how one would fix that, short of replacing the core transformer, or having it rewound.

No offense intended.

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Posted by TrainLarry on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 5:32 PM

You should get voltage at posts A-B regardless of the condition of the circuit breaker or reverse switch. If you do not get voltage at these posts, then there is a problem with the primary winding not getting power. Check the primary coil connections at the power cord prongs with an ohmmeter, as suggested. You should get a very low reading. If you get no reading, then check the primary coil wires at the power cord solder connections.

If you get voltage at posts A-B, and no variable output, then try jumping the circuit breaker and check again. If still no power, the reverse switch may not be making contact, and needs repair.

Larry

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Posted by Prairietype on Thursday, March 22, 2012 8:10 AM

A thank you to everyone who has shared ideas so far.  I hope to begin a systematic test following your advice.  It is so strange; I have bought other 1033's off of ebay that were listed as junk or for parts and turned them into solid performers.  And this one?...... just baffled; and so the challenge to make it work turns into a compulsion.  I really hate to abandon or throw any Lionel away.  I know that there seems to be an almost limitless supply of everything out there, but I just can't stand to see it go into the trash. 

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 23, 2012 6:58 PM

Hi, Prairietype.  I hope you follow up on your thread.  I would like to know the diagnosis & fix.  I have a 1033 on which I have replaced the power cord, the copper oxide rectifier and the entire reverse/whistle switch.  (How that got lost in storage, I'll never explain).  The 1033 powers my test track & still supplies 16 volts.

B.

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Posted by Curmudgeon on Friday, March 23, 2012 7:55 PM

It would help in diagnosis if we knew if you had any voltage on any posts.....and then, what the ohmmeter readings from core to plug are.....

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Posted by servoguy on Saturday, March 24, 2012 8:48 AM

Measure the resistance between the two prongs of the plug.  If it is open, measure between the two solder terminals where the power cord is connected to the transformer.  If the two solder terminals show open, the transformer primary winding is open.  Forget about fixing this.

Measure between A and U and see if this is open.  If it is open, you have something open in the secondary circuit.  Check the circuit breaker, the primary winding, etc.

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Posted by joeyj1575 on Sunday, March 25, 2012 6:35 AM
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Posted by Prairietype on Monday, April 9, 2012 9:23 PM

Copperkettle, and everyone else,

I have been very busy for the past two weeks and was unable to take everyone's suggestions and advice and continue the diagnosis.

Tonight I had time, and, first: Thank You CWBURFLE for your suggestion.  I took a close look at the primary wires, and although it looked like everything was as it should be (because the primary wires were wrapped and intertwined at least at first glance) one of the critical primary wire was not connecting to the power cord lead.  Careful placement and soldering, and now a very strong current on this transformer. It is working perfectly

Again, thanks to all but especially CWBURFLE.

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Posted by Prairietype on Monday, April 9, 2012 9:25 PM

I need to thank curmudgeon as well, for suggesting the same solution about the primary wire connection

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