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Steamer Diecast metal repair

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Steamer Diecast metal repair
Posted by RRaddict on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 4:42 PM

I have a MTH steamer that the cow catcher broke off of.  It was a clean break but what I was wondering if anyone knows a place that I can send it to to be repaired.  A new shell is 100.00 which this thing is not worth but I like it.

Thanks,

Kevin

Can't stop working on the railroad!

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Posted by Kwikster on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:04 PM

One product I have used for years is JBWeld, a type of epoxy. Stuff is virtually unbreakable once set. Be sure to clean excess off the visible side before it sets or you'll have to sand it off.

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Posted by TrainLarry on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:50 PM

Kevin,

  The only thing that can be done to die castings is to glue it back together. They cannot be soldered, brazed or welded. You can use cyanoacrylate glue, or epoxy. The thinner CA glue will make the break less visible. A slight touch up with paint, and buff the paint with an old shoe shine brush, and the break will all but disappear.

Larry

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 8:23 AM

I second the recommendation for JB Weld.  You can do amazing things with it, I've filled in the side of a busted shell with it, sanded it smooth and painted, looks as good as new!  I fix the plastic housings for diesels all the time with it, and I've even fabricated missing steps using it.

You can sand and paint JB Weld, so it's easy to do a repair and then do the finish work.

 

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Posted by RockIsland52 on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 9:30 AM

A couple of years ago there was a forum thread on how to straighten out bent cab roofs on steamers since the metal is so brittle.  One poster had it down to heating the metal to a particular temperature where it was just maleable enough to straighten it but not snap it.  The temperature range was very small if my mind serves me correctly  Think that is also where I read about the use of J-B Weld to glue back on snapped cab roofs.  Good product!.

Jack

IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

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Posted by servoguy on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 10:21 AM

I have not tried JB Weld, but I have glued a broken switch poing on an 022 switch.  Apparently it got stepped on.  I glued it seveal years ago, and the switch has been used several times, so it appears that the glued joint is strong.

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Posted by servoguy on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 10:22 AM

point, not poing

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 11:20 AM

Another vote for JB Weld. I used it to glue a broken Proto 2000 E6 frame back together a few years ago and it's still going strong.

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Posted by RRaddict on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 11:31 AM

Thanks everyone I have ordered some JB cold weld and I am sure it will work great!Big Smile

Kevin

Can't stop working on the railroad!

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Posted by webenda on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 12:29 PM
TrainLarry

Kevin,

  The only thing that can be done to die castings is to glue it back together. They cannot be soldered, brazed or welded.

Larry

Not true, however, the first and last time I attempted to weld ZAMAC the part melted into a pool of metal.

ZAMAK can be soldered. I used some ZAMAK flux for soldering to ZAMAK castings. My experience was a total failure. The flux flowed and stunk but the solder just balled up on the casting.

Just because I can't weld or solder ZAMAK doesn't mean it can't be done. Never-the-less, my vote is for J.B. Weld.

Reference:

Welding ZAMAK: http://www.soldaduras.com/ingles/ose1_ing.htm

Soldering ZAMAK:  http://www.soldaduras.com/ingles/fun_ing.htm

 ..........Wayne..........

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Posted by Kwikster on Thursday, February 23, 2012 3:33 AM

The great thing about JBWeld is most autoparts and Wal-mart stores have it in stock.

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Thursday, February 23, 2012 8:21 AM

You should be happy with the product.  The great part is you can shape it after it sets, and it seems to take paint well for me.

 

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Posted by RRaddict on Thursday, February 23, 2012 9:22 AM

I got the JB cold weld you have to mix is this the correct type as they had a lot.

Kevin

Can't stop working on the railroad!

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Posted by teledoc on Thursday, February 23, 2012 2:24 PM

Yes, it is two (2) part mix that you mix in equal amounts.  Let it dry for at least 24 hours before attempting to do any shaping, or sanding.  It is shapable with the correct tools, xacto knife, sandpaper, and the like.  Once it is where you want it, it does take paint very readily, as I have repaired marker lights on 3 different 1615 locos, with very good results.

Teledoc (Jerry)

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Posted by RRaddict on Friday, February 24, 2012 1:13 PM

You guys are all great, I have the JB Weld now I am just waiting until th elocomotive comes in the mail.  I had to make sure I could repair this before I bought it.  I bought an MTH S2 Turbine Proto 1 sound for $ 40.00 it's new but the cow catcher got broken off. These locos aren't worth much but for 40.00 and 5.00 to fix it I think it will be worth it.

Can't stop working on the railroad!

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Posted by RRaddict on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 4:29 PM

I fixed the steamer with the JB weld and that stuff is incredible. I will have to do a little sanding and painting but it worked great and may be stronger than it was before.

Kevin

Can't stop working on the railroad!

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Posted by RockIsland52 on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 4:43 PM

Now if you can just unglue your index finger and thumb you will be all set!  Laugh

Jack

IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

  • Member since
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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Thursday, March 1, 2012 3:13 PM

RockIsland52

Now if you can just unglue your index finger and thumb you will be all set!  Laugh

Jack

JB Weld doesn't setup that quickly, it's not like CA glue. Wink

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