Got a question for you guys,
I will have nine Lionel remote control non-derailing switches on my layout once it is all tacked down. With the possibility of more in the future. My question is what can I use for a compact toggle style switch to control the switches other than those ugly big brown things they come with? I would like to build a compact console using mini switches to control the turnouts and other accessories. So I think I would be looking for some two way spring to center toggles for the turnouts and standard flip toggles for the lights and other on – off accessories. Is anyone doing this? And if so what are you using for switches?
Also I want to power up and power off the yard spurs and side ull overs on the layout but am not sure how to do it. Guessing I will need to use fiber pins to kill the sections then power them up with LockOns when I want to have them live.
Thanks,
Kevin
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Here are some likely suspects from Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z2xmZ1z0z26cZ1z0rvv3Z1yzshejZ1z0rvv0Z1z0s22kZ1yzshdqZ1z0s22fZ1z0z812Z1z0z7xgZ1z0z810Z1z0z80lZ1yzv2a7Z1z0z357
Bob Nelson
When you're looking for switch controllers, you want momentary SPDT switches with center OFF. These will have the same functionality as the Lionel controllers. You can also connect LED indicators with a diode and resistor across the contact and common to indicate switch position. All of this is very compact. As far as other switches, you can use them from the same brand and model line to make everything match.
All the switches that I linked to at Mouser are momentary single-pole-double-throw-center-off, "(ON)-OFF-(ON)", and electrically suitable for throwing turnouts.
If you are planning on a layout diagram, or want to have one, you can do without switches entirely and use instead studs (screw head) which you would touch with a grounded probe to throw the turnouts.
lionelsoni All the switches that I linked to at Mouser are momentary single-pole-double-throw-center-off, "(ON)-OFF-(ON)", and electrically suitable for throwing turnouts. If you are planning on a layout diagram, or want to have one, you can do without switches entirely and use instead studs (screw head) which you would touch with a grounded probe to throw the turnouts.
I'd also much rather have switches than fooling around with a ground probe, but maybe that's just me.
Thanks
You guys are both correct I am looking for "(ON)-OFF-(ON)" but as I said in the first post I would like spring-return-to-center type for ease of operation. I don't think I want my grandkids messing with ground probe. May give them bad ideas with other wires. :-)
Still would like to know how to power up and down the pull overs and switch yard spurs and how that works with the switch operation.
I'll repeat, "All the switches that I linked to at Mouser are momentary single-pole-double-throw-center-off...". Perhaps you were confused by the pictures, which in some cases show the manufacturer's generic switch type with an off-center handle. The search filter is set for (ON)-OFF-(ON). The parentheses around the "(ON)" indicate that the position is momentary.
The probe is a suggestion, not a mandate. I don't use one myself; but its retro-high-tech look and extreme compactness and simplicity might appeal to others.
As for (un)powering sidings, there are several possibilities:
o Wire a latching relay in parallel with the switch machine. This can be either a purpose-built latching relay, like the Atlas 200, or an ordinary relay with the appropriate circuit.
o Add a (micro)switch to the turnout. This is what I have done with mine. It's a little bit of trouble.
o If you happen to have 022 or other turnout types that shut off the solenoid after switching, you can in principle rededicate the switch that does that to power the siding. Then you should take the appropriate precautions to protect the switch machine.
Thanks Bob, Your right I was confused by the pictures they showed of the switches but then I am easily confused. Also I will post some pictures of my pull offs and yard to help explain what I want to do there because it is also confusing. Thanks for you’re patience and understanding. Kevin
It would also be helpful to know the model numbers of the turnouts.
Bob,
All switches are new Lionel 027 6-65167 042 R Left hand , 6-65168 042 R Right hand and 6-5121 027 R Left hand 6-5122 027 R Right hand.
When I pull into the yard I just want to be able to kill the spurs when not in use and power them up to pull trains in or out of them.
See attached pictures of the pull overs.
Kevin.
What my dad did in the '50's was isolate the center rail of the spur with nylon pin & wire in a SPST switch into the system.- a wire from the main center rail to the switch and then to the center rail of the spur. Simply switch to 'off' when you don't want power to the spur and 'on' when you do. I've also done this with no known ill affects.
Maybe Bob can explain why, if this is not a good idea.
wyomingscout
Wyomingscout,
That is kinda what I was thinking to for the spurs in the yard that end at a bumper. I would put the fiber pin somewhere past the switch where I would park the train. Then switch it off for parking and turn it on to pull in or out. Almost seems to simple. But on the pullovers I was unclear what effect that may have on the derailing device in the switch because there will be a switch on each end. So I am not sure how to do that and if it should be the center rail or not. The switches have fiber pins in them on the inside rails so I just don’t know and don’t want to screw anything up if I need not.
Thanks ,
Putting an insulating pin in the center rail at the end(s) of the track you want to shut off will work just fine. You can use an SPST switch to reconnect the center rail to the transformer when you want power on the siding.
The alternatives I suggested above are for the case where you want the siding to be switched off automatically when the turnout(s) are aligned for the main line. If you're happy with switching off the sidings manually, more power to you (so to speak).
Note that O27 switches don't provide position feedback like 022 O31 switches do, so forget about the idea of LED's for position feedback.
Once again: great suggestions and great answers for my questions from a bunch of great enthusiast of the hobby.
I now have a plan that will work fine. I will save these answers and use your suggestions.
Thanks everyone!!
+1 on the idea of using fiber pins at each end of your passing sidings and running a separate power wire (center rail) to power each one individually. You could even use a SPDT ("frankenstine style") so that you would either have power on one siding or the other, but not both (if that's how you want it to work.) I'd probably just use two simple switches, leaving you the ability to have both sidings on if you wanted/needed. Also, this will not affect the turnouts' auto-derailing--that uses the ground rail, not the hot. Your ground rails will still be electrically connected to the rest of your layout, it's just the center rail that you'll isolate for power. Good luck!
gunrunner...
Can you identify the type LED (voltage), diode type and resistor (ohm and wattage) that would work for this? I'm guessing you'd need two of each item (one for the "red" and one for the "green") on every switch, correct?
Thx
zigzag930- Welcome to Trains.com!
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
Correct, two diodes, two LED's, and two resistors. For running switches at 14-16 volts, I'd probably pick a 1K 1/4W resistor, that will work just fine. If you want the lights a bit brighter, you could go as low as 470 ohm for the resistor and standard 20ma LED bulbs. Note that the diode is MANDATORY and will reduce the voltage by half, but it's real purpose it to protect the LED from reverse voltage, which will destroy it.
Thanks for that info. one additional clarification: the diode and resistor are wired a) in series or b) parallel? I'm guessing they must be in series and that the order doesn't matter....
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