I installed 1121 switches on my layout with the non- derailing set-up. Problem is when my 2037 loco enters the switch it automatically reverses then stops on the switch. I have two 1121 switches installed back to back so that the loco enters a switch on one side and exits the other 1121 switch on the other side.Do I need to insulate the two switches from each other or what needs to be done to fix this. Clint
I think we need more information about how the turnouts and the control-rail sections are arranged, including where you have insulating pins. For starters, which parts of these 1121 turnouts are butted together?
Bob Nelson
I have a 205 Missouri Pacific that does the same thing. By placing the e unit lever in 'forward only' the loco keeps on going. Obviously, my problem is in the e unit. You might try this with your 2037 & see what happens.
wyomingscout
wyomingscout I have a 205 Missouri Pacific that does the same thing. By placing the e unit lever in 'forward only' the loco keeps on going. Obviously, my problem is in the e unit.
I have a 205 Missouri Pacific that does the same thing. By placing the e unit lever in 'forward only' the loco keeps on going. Obviously, my problem is in the e unit.
The problem is that the current to your locomotive is being interrupted briefly, for whatever reason. This does not necessarily imply a faulty e-unit.
My 2018 and 2026 will occasionally do the same thing on my FasTrack manual switches. When it starts to happen, I know it's time to get out the cleaning pad and clean the switches again. Dirty rollers can cause the same effect.
Disabling the e-unit is more of a workaround than a cure for the underlying problem.
I agree with the last post, nothing wrong with the E-unit, it's doing what it's supposed to do when power is interrupted. You need to address the issue with either the switch or the pickups on the locomotives.
The two switches are butted together on the ends with a single track and the other ends have the two ends where a curved and straight track face away from each other.There are no insulating pins installed between the two switches where they are butted together. I have insulated track at each section of track where they exit or enter the in two directions, there are insulating pins in each of the insulated outside ground rails where they connect to the switches. the swiches throw themselves in the right direction when the loco enters, but when the loco enters on through the first switch and contacts the butted switch is when it reverses and stalls.
About a year ago, I went through a number of 1122 switches. All of them had connection problems inside the switches. Problem is that the switch is made from soft plastic and the crimp connections get loose due the plastic cold flowing. I wrote a post about fixing the switches. You might look for it.
Bruce Baker
It seems like you've got everything hooked up right. Here are a few things to check:
It's possible, as Bruce suggests, that some rails are not connected inside the turnout, particularly the funny-shaped center rail that Lionel incorrectly calls the "frog rail". Since you have a metal pin connecting these rails, they would both have to be disconnected in order to get your symptoms; but that is a possibility.
Another thing to verify is whether the other center rails, in the non-diverging and diverging paths, have a track pin in each end. The inner end of these short rails uses a track pin to extend each rail about a half-inch closer to the middle of the turnout and reduce the gap that the pickups must straddle.
It's also possible that one of your pickup rollers is not connected. Try putting a small piece of tape on the center rail of well-cleaned ordinary track and run the locomotive slowly over it. If one roller is not doing its job, the locomotive should stop when the good roller comes to the tape.
Have you carefully cleaned the center rails throughout the turnouts?
arkady wyomingscout: I have a 205 Missouri Pacific that does the same thing. By placing the e unit lever in 'forward only' the loco keeps on going. Obviously, my problem is in the e unit. The problem is that the current to your locomotive is being interrupted briefly, for whatever reason. This does not necessarily imply a faulty e-unit. My 2018 and 2026 will occasionally do the same thing on my FasTrack manual switches. When it starts to happen, I know it's time to get out the cleaning pad and clean the switches again. Dirty rollers can cause the same effect. Disabling the e-unit is more of a workaround than a cure for the underlying problem.
wyomingscout: I have a 205 Missouri Pacific that does the same thing. By placing the e unit lever in 'forward only' the loco keeps on going. Obviously, my problem is in the e unit.
This only happens with the 205 engine - all the others work fine - so I thought it was the e unit. However, it HAD been a while since I cleaned the rollers on the unit. So, I cleaned the track & the rollers.
Guess what? It solved the problem. I get great advice here, sometimes by accident. One less e unit to replace.
Thanks guys.
This is what I found on a 2035 that was exhibiting similar behavior:
There are (at least on some engines) two "horseshoe" clips that secure the pins where the collector arms pivot (the same pins that the springs are wrapped around). When passing through turnouts, one of these clips can sometimes brush over a grounded rail, causing a short and cycling the e-unit. Solution is to bend the ends of the clip so that it can't touch the rail, or replace with a round E-shaped clip.
Hey guys! Thanks for all your input, I found my problem. My 2037 Loco's pilot trucks were faulty, the previous owner had prefabricated and bent the pilot truck to fit on the lamp socket bracket where the tang had broken off the bottom. This was causing it to hang too low for clearance when it entered the switches. Thanks again for all your input!
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