I just got a this train.. and the light works but the engine doesn't work. The wheels turn freely and I don't see any wires disconnected.
I am a bit new at collecting trains and so my experience repairing is very limited.
Any recommendations as to where to look for the problem? The horn works a little.. the rubber gasket is broken up - dry rot - but I think it will be fine when I repair that issue.
But the engine.. not working is odd since there is power getting in to make the light turn on.. but no sound from the two motors.
Thanks
Ron
check for a break in the wires from the E-unit as it would be possible that the light work and even the horn but if the motors are not getting power you have no motors. Was looking for my repair book but must have it in one of the boxes of trains lol Personaly i would look for an area on the e-unit that both engines connect to.
second the e-unit might be locked in nuetral the slide bar underneath slide it one way and see and then slide it the other and see
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
I checked and all seemed fine. However, I just used a screwdriver and moved the rotor (not sure what it is called) in the e-unit.... and then the train ran perfect...
But, I can't get it to reverse... Not sure what the problem is.. but apparently the e-unit is not moving the rotor to cause it to reverse the power and direction.
any thoughts on this issue?
the good thing is that it works.. both motors are running very smooth.. just can't switch directions... yet
I had the same problem with an engine. I gave the e unit a shot of WD-40 and blew out the excess with a shot of air and it works fine.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I tried the wd 40 .. no luck
runs great in one direction.. i guess i need to take out e unit and see if i can see anything
unfortunately, i don't have much experience in repair.. but it runs great in one direction and i don't see anything obvious that is causing it not to switch direction
ron
Is the e-unit switched on? There is an L-shaped lever on the side of it. The long arm goes through a slot in the bottom of the frame casting. The short arm contacts a stud on the e-unit to make a connection between the e-unit coil and the frame, to turn on the e-unit coil. The fiber board that holds the rivet usually warps with age and the rivet that holds the lever to the e-unit loosens. If the lever is not making contact with the stud, that would explain your symptoms; and you may be able to get it working simply by bending the short arm inward with some stout long-nosed pliers so that it once again makes contact with the stud.
Bob Nelson
Thanks.
Unfortunately, the contacts appear very tight.. no apparent gap that requires adjustment/bending.. any other ideas?
I am very happy that it works since I bought on ebay and they didn't say the engine works.. so things look good. It runs great but can't get the e-unit to change direction.
Is there something else to test or check to see if the e-unit is working?
Also,, I will need a new rubber gasket/washer for the horn.. the one that is on the train is broken up.. I can just order this from a parts store?
Thanks again for your help
give Jeff Kane of www.TTender.com a call he should be able to get you the part and may even talk you thru getting the e-unit working. it may just take you cycling it a few times as it may not of been used for decades and its a little stiff.
The e-unit doesn't cycle,., spray electronic cleaner, but no contact ..apparently. I can turn by hand and the engine will switch to neutral then reverse.. but it doesn't appear power is making eunit cycle on its own. I hear a little noised but no movement in the unit.
I may try Jeff.. and thanks for your help. If anything else comes to mind, let me know. I was hoping not to replace eunit - like keeping all original, but may have to get a new one
One other thought......you mentioned that you used a screwdriver to turn the e-unit drum, and the engine responded by moving in one direction. Did you, by chance, bend or dislodge one of the little metal contact fingers in the process. These are very fragile and easily bent so that they don't make proper contact with the e-unit drum, in order to cycle properly. It probably means removing the drum and checking the alignment of these fingers. That's a job for someone with a little experience and a LOT of patience.
I know what you mean about those tiny copper contacts on the drum. I will check, but I don't think they are bent since I moved the drum via the sides... on the outside the little axle or whatever it is called can be moved up turning the drum...
I think I will need to take the engine to the shop.. probably this is a bit above my pay grade and experience.
Thanks for your help. If anyone has any other thoughts, please reply
When you moved the plunger, did it move freely? You can check it by turning the loco upside down and see if the plunger drops into the solenoid.
Also, when you power the engine, do you hear the E unit buzzing? You can put a small screwdriver on the plunger and see if you feel any vibration from the magnetic field in the coil.
The plunger should move unless it is sticking or the coil is open.
BB
Do you have a meter? You can check the coil in the E unit by checking continuity from the rivet on the fiber board that holds the lever to the roller pickup that picks up power from the center rail. Make sure the lever is not contacting the rivet when you do this. The rivet should have a fine wire attached to it.
Here is a method to test the E unit without a meter. rotate the E unit drum one more position to put the motor in neutral. Move the lever on the E unit so it doesn't contact the rivet on the insulator board. Put the loco on the track and turn on some power. Take a clip lead or short length of wire and touch one end to the outside rail and the other end to the rivet. The E unit should cycle.
If your a newbie with no experience you need to get expert help with that E unit. I am sure the motors and gears need proper cleaning and oiling/greasing too. Find someone near you who does post war repairs and have him do it. the 2333 is a great train, enjoy it.
Roger
Ron,
Any luck?
Mike
Ron checkout this library link, e-unit repair is under "lionel loco service info" and you can find complete info on your 2333 engine at this site. http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd1.htm
Good luck!
joej1575
To all..
Thanks for the tips. I was out of town so I didn't get a chance to work on the engine. I tried to one suggestion, put it in neutral, touch wire from outside rail to contact on e-unit.. but nothing happened. I have removed the eunit looking closely for damage or loose wire but no luck. It seems not to cycle.. not sure if there is anything else to try before taking it to an experience repair person.
Again, I can move the drum from the outside and move it through neutral, forward, and reverse.. but I cannot get it to cycle on its own. does that mean the coil is dead?
If the E unit is not buzzing it is likely dead. Is there a red power wire attached to the side of the E unit?
yes, there is red power wire and I even ran another wire from it to the contact below in case the old wire which is wrapped with cloth had a break.. but no luck
the thin copper wire is also attached to the red power and the thin copper goes under the paper wrap around the coil.
so, i don't see any breaks in connections
If i need a new e-unit, can I find an original one ? Does anyone know where to find besides ebay
thanks
You probably also looked at the other end of the coil, that is wired to the stud on the fiber board, didn't you?
Another remote possibility is that the e-unit frame is not making good contact with the locomotive frame.
Do you have an ohmmeter that you could use to measure the coil conductance directly?
I don't have an ohmmeter...so I can't try that test. All the wires appear to have good connections... I lossened the screw that holds the e-unit to the frame to make sure there is good contact with the frame.. but no luck..yet.
Thanks for your help along with all the other folks ...
Don't worry it can be fixed I bought one time a 2343 Santa-Fe that honestly looked like his kids took it out and played with it in a dirt pile as when I took the shell off it was packed in dirt. I broke away 90% of it and got the motors turning but couldn't get it to work so sent it to a guy who fixes some trains for me. He asked me where I dug it up from and I just told him he should of seen it when I got it. So there is deffinitely help for yours
E units are easy to find. Several guys rebuild them and sell on Ebay. Jeff Kane at www.ttender.com should be able to just sell you a new one. Question for you, there should be a green, a yellow, and a blue wire coming up out of the e unit and soldered to the rear motor, which in turn routes up front to the other motor. Make sure all that is there. The green wire is the field coil wire for the motor and should be the center post.
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