I have a 1033 transformer that I've been using since I started playing with trains last year. I haven't really had any problems with it until now. I've been continually adding to my layout , and when I added a 2400 series passenger set to my collection just recently, i realized that I'm approaching the load limit on my "juice box" with all the lights on the layout. I've backed off running the passenger cars and pulled the bulbs on my switch controllers to ease off the wattage until I get a second transformer The issue is that, even though I've budgeted my wattage, I still can't seem to run for more than an hour before I notice the engine start to get sluggish. The transformer hums quietly, but noticeably (never used to before, even after a couple hours running). The most worrisome thing is the heat coming off the transformer. I pulled off the whistle handle, and the handle stud is quite hot (but the speed handle stud is not). I pulled off the cover to look inside and probed everything to see if the heat was localized anywhere else, but other than the core being kinda warm, the heat is concentrated on the whistle handle assembly. The rectifier disk wasn't warm either (BTW, I never use the whistle controller other than direction) No loose solder points, no evidence of burning insulation, no delamination of the windings, basically nothing visibly deficient. I was able to move the winding within the core, even though it's still solid. No idea what the deal is with that. Even though the heat is pretty considerable, the breaker doesn't trip.
I'll double check to make sure my constant voltage accessories are wired up correctly, but I wanted to see if anyone had some insight. I'm continuing to budget my wattage, and I'm shopping for either a second 1033 or splurge on a ZW so I can keep building the pike. (Army's not moving me for another year, so I have time to double my trackage before I tear it all down!)
Thanks!
John N.
One thing I have done recently to reduce the power is to replace the incandescent bulbs in passenger cars and switch controllers. Town & Country Hobbies has led replacements for screw base and bayonet base 18v lamps, There is a big difference in the current draw. I measured one passenger car w/ 2 original lamps: 140 milliamps. With leds it reads 22 milliamps.
The 1033's are great accessory transformers, as I use four of them to power lights and accessories on my layout. However, they will get hot and overheat if overloaded. I inadvertently ruined one a few years ago by gradually adding too many accessories and lights to it. I first noticed the overload when the layout lights it fed began blinking off and on. After that, I added an additional accessory transformer and split more evenly the load each one carried. Unfortunately, I also had to replace the overloaded 1033 as it would not carry much of a load after it overheated. I suspect you are gradually pushing your 1033 toward its limit, so I would add another transformer to your mix as soon as you can.
Robert
http://www.robertstrains.com/
Bob.M One thing I have done recently to reduce the power is to replace the incandescent bulbs in passenger cars and switch controllers. Town & Country Hobbies has led replacements for screw base and bayonet base 18v lamps.
One thing I have done recently to reduce the power is to replace the incandescent bulbs in passenger cars and switch controllers. Town & Country Hobbies has led replacements for screw base and bayonet base 18v lamps.
I didn't know about Town & Country's LEDs. Thanks, I will be getting some myself.
The whistle handle stud is part of the circuit within the transformer. The return spring that makes the whistle handle spring back when released also presses on a copper strap that runs to the "U" post. If this area is fouled with dirt, or the spring is not tight up against the strap, then you will have a poor electrical connection which would produce heat. Might be something to check.
arkady I didn't know about Town & Country's LEDs. Thanks, I will be getting some myself.
They also have some red & green leds which I have not yet tried. They would be good for replacing the old O-22 bare bulb model switch controllers.
You should be aware that the leds have a slight bluish tint. I found that OK in most cases, but one Lionel passenger car has blue tinted windows, and the leds just did not work out.
Nickaix, I think you nailed it. I have repeatedly had to tighten the sleeve that fits over the bottom of the whistle handle stud. It probably needs to be replaced; as hard as I can manage to make sure it's seated, it just won't stop falling off after the whistle/direction handle gets repeatedly swung back and forth. I just reassembled it after I made this post, and even though the humming hasn't gone away, the heat buildup has disappeared after tightening the stud sleeve. I used the flat side of a combo wrench as an anvil under the stud, and carefully tapped the top of the stud home. It's been tight for a few days, but perhaps too tight? The whistle handle won't snap back to the center position from either the direction or whistle position. I'll keep tweaking it, but I'm happy for all the help from the posters and your confirmation of my suspicion.
Bob.M One thing I have done recently to reduce the power is to replace the incandescent bulbs in passenger cars and switch controllers. Town & Country Hobbies has led replacements for screw base and bayonet base 18v lamps, There is a big difference in the current draw. I measured one passenger car w/ 2 original lamps: 140 milliamps. With leds it reads 22 milliamps.
I think I need to qualify that recommendation. 3 of the 8 LEDs have since burned out. They appear to need some protection against high Peak Inverse Voltage. A diode in series will do that. I have rewired the passenger cars to include the diode in an attempt to save the remaining LEDs.
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