I would try to search but one of my problems is I don't even know what these parts are called. My 225E had such bad wiring I decided to rewire it. Problem is that little block on the front, it has the coil and a bunch of wire connections on it. In the middle is a "power axel" with grooves on it that have 4 prongs on one side and two on the top. It's got copper in places, and the rest is blue plastic. I assume this controls forward/neutral/reverse switching.
So my issue came when I decided to remove the power axel so I could more easily solder on the new wire. Problem 1 is the prongs got all bent out of shape, and problem 2 is the plastic frayed off the ends of the axel, so it doesn't sit quite right.
I would try to take the whole assembly apart, but I'm afraid of breaking it more. Is this part mean to be taken apart at all? I also wanted to search for possible replacement pieces in case this is beyond repairing, but I don't know what the parts are called. Any ideas?
Thanks all.
What you describe sounds like the E-unit, aka the reversing unit.
See whether this link helps:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=759
>
Yes, thanks for that link. It's the e-unit that has me e-xasperated. hehe
Hrm....
If the plastic pins on either end of the E unit drum are damaged at all, you'll probably need a replacement. Best way to remove the drum without breaking it is to "spread the sheet metal sides of the E unit. This ain't easy although there is a "tool" for spreading it. I try to pop one side off the spacer bar and then when I re assemble it I smash them back together Works pretty good for me. If the drum is good, clean the copper faces with fine paper or just cleaner. The fingers must all be present as well and if they are not "bent" correctly, they will not touch the proper copper segment of the drum there by not completing the circuit This can be a little bit of a trial and error session, however, you shouldn't need to tweak the fingers if they were not distorted or damaged. good luck!!
Well my 225e is still sitting dissassembled. I can't figure out a way to separate the E-unit, I swear it feels like it's welded together. What do you use to get it apart? What tool?
So needing an engine to play with I decide to lube up my 2035 2025 (writing is worn off). It works fine for a few days.. then today i run it around before work (to entertain my 7.5 month old) and it stops, and white smoke billows out.
Aw hell.
Where does the smoke come out? If it comes out near the motor area you will need to clean the brushes and armature. If happens after five minutes of running or more you probally have a bad armature or one that need rewinding. It would be better to combine parts from the 2035 to the 225E, like the E unit so that you can get one negine running.
Lee F.
Didn't have time to investigate as I had to get to work, but it was seeping out the slot for the "forward lock" toggle switch. At first it was just a puff, then I moved it up the track thinking it was just off track, and it was a plume of white smoke and it stunk up the house. I'll investigate it sometime this week. So far my only reliable train is my gang car.
To make your life less difficult. remove the eunit and just run the engine. You can fix or replace it later.I like your Super O track. Also,I like the fact that you just dived in and worked on them. Bravo Both of those engines are not that common though. I would suggest getting a junker and hone your skills. I own about three variations of the 2026, when repairing one I constantly refer to the others. Mine are not the gems of the family either.
Good Luck
Bob
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