The #600 MKT SW-2 switcher I scored on e-bay got here late last week. Gave the body shell a bath, and lube job to the running gear. Looks and runs good, making all of the proper e-unit noise and ozone! This one has single axle magnatraction.
I first put it to work moving a few 40 ton stock cars around on the 036 Fastrack loop. No problems.
Its next job was to tow the track cleaning car around on the 027 loop. Above a certain speed, the front axle on the power truck would 'step' over the outside rail about the same time that the back axle entered the curve section of track.
Running without any cars, it will not de-rail at high speeds, but pulling one of the 40 ton stock cars, it will de-rail. Running with the 40 ton stock car 'backwards', it does not de-rail.
This locomotive has the power truck in the front, and the magnetic axle is in towards the center of the chassis. Under load, the torque reaction from the motor and towing forces would tend to pick the front axle up off of the track. That would explain why running 'backwards' solves the problem.
Has anybody else seen this? I'm guessing that the flanges on the power truck wheels might be worn.
I know the problem. The front derails going into 027 curves and not in reverse. The front truck is lazy and doesn't want to twist to the angle. Just hold the engine up and twist the truck.I can't remember the exact solution. I looked for burs and oiled the sliding surfaces.The wires may be too stiff also. Do what you can so it will twist easier. I doubt the flanges are worn. My Greenburg guide described it as O scale when I researched the engine,Those power trucks are large, but if you can make it twist easier it will run 027 Mine does.
The motor is in front. For the record I have magnetraction on the inner axle only.
The repair manual shows the magnetraction axle in front. Perhaps yours was assembled wrong. You could try swapping bearings and axles; but it might be difficult to get the bearings swapped and aligned without damaging the sheet-metal truck frame.
(That's an NW-2, not an SW-2.)
Bob Nelson
I have a 614 Alaska and the same thing. Magnetraction axle in rear near fuel tank. Aerotech Service manual (a condensed readers digest version) also shows opposite for the 600 series switchers (front). There is no mention in the breakdown of differences between switcher models. I have a 601 Seaboard. BOTH axles are magnetized yet it is included in the series in the service manual with single axle magnetraction. No mention of this is made of this either. It's likely Lionel reversed axles on later models and that is what service manuals reflect.
I have two #600s, and in checking, my magnetraction axle is the rear axle on the from truck near the center of the locomotive, or what would be the fuel tank area. I would look the front truck and see that it isn't binding as someone else mentioned. I have never had any problems with my engines, and often like running them together. The e-units on mine switch nicely together and seldom do I find them out of sync.
Good Luck,
Alank
Thanks for the feedback.
Since this one is definitely a 'runner', I'm considering mounting the body shell with screws through the chassis. Doing that will allow the body shell to be mounted with the cab over the motor - problem solved, it will be running in 'reverse'. Add some LED headlights, maybe a TMCC conversion, find a two axle magnitraction truck......
I've either gotten cabin fever or the O scale bug!
I look at your last reply and have some question. If you are going to have screws coming thru the chassis, what are they going to bite into. The 600 shell doesn't have the molded in standoffs like a plastic tender shell. Before you go to all the trouble of reversing the body shell, can't you get this engine working in the fashion it was designed? My original 600, we have had since it was new, and it has more miles on it than can shake a stick at. Even my maintainence of this engine has been low, and I never encounteted the situation that you are talking about. I have a 623 that does this, but I know it is in the front truck, and has to do with the electro coupler that I replaced. That engine too I was able to run some a Christmas with a little adjusting. If you need a 2 axle truck for your 600, try to find a Alco. My 210, 211 and a couple others have 2 magnetraction axles. Anyhow good luck. I saw some nice leds with their own regulator at a train show recently; 6 to 14 volts. Nice looking headlight. I prefer to run my PW engines with the powermaster instead of adding the other electronics. I have command control engines, but keep seperate loops. Anyhow good luck.
Alan
It would not be difficult to grind off the existing offset standoff stamped into the frame and make a new standoff from thin brass flatbar and attach it to the frame. The existing radiator end standoff would remain. The screws would go through the shell and bite into the metal standoffs. The 600 MKT is not a high dollar collectible so it's not something I would get overly concerned about.
Before reversing the body shell, I will do an inspection, cleaning, and lube of the area between the power truck and chassis. I forgot to check that area when I serviced the locomotive last week.
My plan to reverse the body shell was to cut off the tab that held the cab end of the body, then glue a couple of plastic blocks inside of the shell to screw into through the chassis.
The TMCC conversion is more of a wish list item at the moment. One of my loops is controlled with a TPC400 - it runs well there.
From my experience, this is a common problem with the 600 series. I have had good luck by greasing the slide plate above the front truck and also loosening the front cab screw a couple of turns to make sure it doesn't impede the turning of the front truck on curves.
These two measures have pretty much solved my derailing problems wityh the 600 series switchers.
I think the resistance is all in the the spring loaded washers on the frame. Lube will help but try cutting up a piece of plastic and make a washer that will lock in place.under the metal one that is pressed by the spring. I used a piece of milk jug.by trimmimg a rectangular slot in the center to wrap around the post. I started with a slit from the edge and cut the slot perpendiclar to it. The slit will help by just slipping it on and and lock it in by rotating it. It should not slip off, if the slit is pointing to the front or rear. I noticed an improvement on just doing one. Be sure to trim the outer edges near interferences.as mentioned above in the previous post,the front screw holder
Coating the deck with teflon tape would be nice but I have not seen it sold with a sticky back. Electrical tape may work but it may not hold up.Try to make those two washers slide easier.
The test run had problems I cleaned the surface and used plastic from a yogurt container to make a new set of washers. No derailments and less friction. Time will tell. I may even use some rubbing compound on the painted frame and use some car wax to slick it up. I guess I am going green with recycling.
Bob
Not a bad idea. I'll give it a try if the cleaning and lube does not work.
Cleaning and lubricating the front truck/chassis connection, top and bottom did the trick.
Now it will stay on the track pulling 4 or 5 cars at speed.
Thanks for all of the ideas.
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