I finally broke down and bought one of these on ebay. I would appreciate assistance with a couple of questions:
1. The set I purchased does not appear to have the separate O-gauge power blade. Is this essential (can I use the installed 0-27) or do I need a new one? If the latter, can someone recommend a source for this part?
2. Should I attempt to clean and/or lubricate the motor? What general steps pre-installation should I take? I should add that the set appears to be in very good shape.
3. The original instructions suggest "putting a thin film of Lionel lubricant" around the base of the cattle. Is this wise?
Thanks for all your help. I have always wanted one of these.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
ChiefEagles wrote:Got one to work on myself. The lube was to help the cows move. I use to not like it too much. Collects dust and etc. How are the little black "titss" under the cows? [you being a lawyer and don't know how to milk a cow so, no not those, the ones under the base ]. IF they are missing or bent over real bad, it may take new cows. I'd clean it up good and try it. If you have O track, 027 blades will not work as they are too low to touch the cattle car. IF you have 027 track. O blades are too high and will probably stop the train. Those blades have to touch the sliding shoes under the car. Roger Bielen, bielen30677@aol.com , has done a great job of rebuilding these. If all else fails, Steve and Jerry can fix.
Thanks Chief. The little ... er ... protrusions on the bases of the cows look fine. I have 0 gauge track, so I think I am going to have to get a new part from Jerry and Steve. I may bring the thing in for sort of a general checkup anyway before slapping it on the layout.
RaleighTrainFan,
What version of the corral do you have? The earlier version had orange gates on the platform, and the platform was suspended by four rubber grommets that protrude through square openings in the side fences. The later version has yellow gates, and the platform is mounted to the base by three sponge rubber pads. The earlier version is much more reliable than the later version.
jimtrumpie wrote: RaleighTrainFan, What version of the corral do you have? The earlier version had orange gates on the platform, and the platform was suspended by four rubber grommets that protrude through square openings in the side fences. The later version has yellow gates, and the platform is mounted to the base by three sponge rubber pads. The earlier version is much more reliable than the later version.
I am afraid that I have the latter version. The gates are definitely not orange, anyway.
RaleighTrainFan wrote: jimtrumpie wrote: RaleighTrainFan, What version of the corral do you have? The earlier version had orange gates on the platform, and the platform was suspended by four rubber grommets that protrude through square openings in the side fences. The later version has yellow gates, and the platform is mounted to the base by three sponge rubber pads. The earlier version is much more reliable than the later version. I am afraid that I have the latter version. The gates are definitely not orange, anyway.
Me too. Mine worked fine 20 some years ago. Plan on putting mine in the backroom corner of the layout.
I ended up with two of these sets. I have one corral that appears to be shrted out and does not vibrate. The other corral and both cars work great. Now comes the funny part. My son and I did not know that these sets were never that reliable when made and ours worked the first time out. I had never seen one until we got these. I got lucky that I have the right O27 blades to make the one work. I did get some new cows and they all have good "fingers" on the bottem and seem to move along just fine.
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Captaincog,
The cause of the short may be due to the coil leads. The lead from the bottom of the coil should go to the binding post without the fiber washers. The upper lead goes to the post with the fiber washers. If the wires were reversed, the coil would appear shorted. The coil can be checked by disconnecting its leads from the binding posts and measuring the resistance across the leads. If memory serves, it should be around 15 ohms.
Captaincog wrote: I ended up with two of these sets. I have one corral that appears to be shrted out and does not vibrate. The other corral and both cars work great. Now comes the funny part. My son and I did not know that these sets were never that reliable when made and ours worked the first time out. I had never seen one until we got these. I got lucky that I have the right O27 blades to make the one work. I did get some new cows and they all have good "fingers" on the bottem and seem to move along just fine.
Mine did when I was a kid and when my kid use to play with it in the late 70's to early 80's. Hope it still does. Enjoy.
The oil on the base sides of the cattle was supposed to help them round corners easier. Use it sparingly so as not to get oil on the horizontal surfaces of the coral and car. As Chief says it collects dust which will impede the movement of your cows. As an added bonus the oil tenderizes and adds flavor to any of the cows that end up being bar-b-qued in a derailment .
The foam rubber pads on the later version might need replacing after all these years, especially if the coral was stored somewhere hot. If they've gone brittle and you put the coral back in service it will most likely disintegrate the foam pads very quickly. They can be replaced with the appropiate height sponge rubber door seal. Now, what to do with the left over 19' 8" of door seal? Buy 79 more 3656's and model Amarillo!
The person who owns a perfectly working 3656 is indeed blessed.
Bruce Webster
SPFan wrote: Now, depending on applied voltage, the cattle can make a complete circuit in under 10 seconds.Pete
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