I am looking for the best pic for automatic switches on a 4X8 that will be expanded to 4X11 - They will be used on my inner loop to access accessories - Engines on them will be Williams or Post War switchers (or a Turbine doing duty as a switcher) - Right now I have o27 but will gladly switch to O if it allows a better option - Would prefer to buy them new - I am open to any consideration - Lionel, GarGraves, etc.. It will be sort of a mini yard so there may be several of them used closely together - Looking for dependability and minimal headaches
The outer loop (not connected to the inner) is o-27 with 42" radius curves
Thanks!
I have nothing but good experiences with FasTrack switches. They obviously work only with FasTrack.
Earl
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
EIS2 wrote: I have nothing but good experiences with FasTrack switches. They obviously work only with FasTrack.Earl
No they make adaptors to goto O gauge and back for at least a year.
IMHO, K-Line had the best reasonably priced automatic (and non-derailing) tubular switches for O27 and O - the newer low-profile style - in both 27" and 42" for O27. Good luck finding any now though (haven't seen any show up on the 'bay for awhile).
My second choice (a very close second actually) O27 profile auto switch has been the Marx plastic-topped low profile switches (in 27" and 34"). They aren't techically non-derailing, however a diesel has enough weight to push the swivel rail into the correct position when approaching from the wrong direction - probably not as much of a concern if you're using them for sidings instead of reverse loops. The Marx are powered separately from track power - I use an Atlas #56 switch controller (same ones used for HO switches) instead of the large switch button panels that Marx supplied - the Atlas ones can be daisy-chained directly together without extra wiring for power. Only drawback to the 27" Marx versions is that they have no direction indicator or light to tell which way the switch is set. That, and both 27" and 34" versions require adding a guide rail to the turnout side to prevent picking the frog, as discussed earlier here:
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1294495/ShowPost.aspx
Pic of a modified 27" Marx switch:
The Marx switch covers are low enough to clear longer passenger, freight, and engines that won't clear a Lionel (or older K-Line) 27" switch with the large housings. Both versions show up fairly regularly on the 'bay, usually running from $10-30 or so a pair with shipping (just picked up another 27" pair for just under $10 shipped) - caveat emptor, as always when dealing with the 'bay.
Don't have any experience with Ross, Gargraves, et.al. - look nice, but well outa my price range...
I've mostly ditched the Lionel O27 switches - too easy to burn out a switch motor parking a train on them (non-derailing feature keeps the switch motor powered trying to throw the switch), housing too big to pass some of my cars and engines, and too frustrating being powered by the track, although that can be remedied with some work. That said, I did take a few and performed some serious cutting, grinding, sanding, and glueing to make some yard switches that would allow parallel track spacing of @ 3.5 inches or so. Never did finish them, and now I don't have room for the yard...
So with Ross on the inner loop somethig like a 106M / 105M would do the trick to access some accessories or create a mini yard ??
At this point I only see a few switches on the layout so doing it right with the higher end switches is fine with me!!!
I really like Atlas switches and they have adapters that work well with every type of track . Jake
Merry Christmas to ya'll
I like GarGraves switches as they have more sizes than most others except Ross switches and GarGraves track mates up to Ross switch with just track pins as they use the same style track pins. GarGraves or Ross are much less trouble in the long run. GarGraves to tubular adapters fit right into the track and they make both adapter pins for 027 & O gauge track.
Atlas switches take up tooo much room on a small layout and the adapter pin transitions to tubular O gauge track are very ruff and can cause derailments. Also once you cut a piece off of Atlas track to make it fit to tubular track you loose the plastic connecter that is on the end.
Lee F.
Hedda wrote: At this point I only see a few switches on the layout so doing it right with the higher end switches is fine with me!!!
RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
Brutus wrote:Hey jmsiv/John - I'm switching to gargraves with ross switches too, but I can't figure out the sizes on the ross switches like #4, #6 or "regular" switch. Is the #4 equivalent to O72? Which size do you use?
Jim,
Of course the 031, 042 and 072's type switches are pretty easy to understand. the diverging track has a diameter of the number given in inches
The larger the numbered switch (#4, #6, etc.) the broader, more sweeping it's divergence. The size of numbered switches are calculated using the same formula as real railroads. Simply put, the diverging rail on a #6 switch will curve 1" away from the straight path for every 6" of distance from the switch points. Hypothetically, a full size standard gauge ( 4' 8-1/2" ) #6 will measure 6 times that distance( 28' 3" ) between the frog and switch points.
Real standard gauge railroads, if I'm not mistaken, generally didn't use switches any smaller than #7's. Even these would be considered too small for anything but the tightest of situations. Todays high speed turnouts probably number something like #20 -#25 or larger. Hope this helps.
Bruce Webster
I have been using GarGraves switches for about six years with no problems with the switch motors, maybe I forgot to tighten a wire enuff. Also GarGraves and Ross switches are low profile(similar to H.O. switches) and let everything pass over the top of them so no need to worry about passenger car overhang!
Not that knowledgeable about switch sizes in numbered turnouts but GarGraves & Ross have a wide variety of switches.
Ross 072 switches:
Ross #4 switches:
Ross "regular" 11 degree switches:
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