I recently purchased an older MTH PS-4 (1994) steam engine that is in mint condition except that there are no traction tires on it. There are spare traction tires that were included. The owners manual says to remove the side rods to install the tires. The side rods are connected to the drive wheels with small hex head screws/bolts. When I used my trusty nut driver to remove the first one, the threaded part of the bolt wrung off. Fortunately, pushing the bolt back into the wheel proved a tight fit and I can probably still use the engine as a result.
Is there a trick or method to removing those bolts without breaking them? I still have three to go in order to replace the tires. I might not be as lucky with the remaining three bolts if they wring off.
Bill
Billbobbob1, I have no experience with better MTH steamers. But what I do so that I do not have to pull apart steamers, is I cut a narrow piece of 3M Step Grip Tape on a piece of glass with a metal ruler and then remove the backing and adhere this to the drive wheel on a steam engine. Of course you need to clean the wheel first with 91% isopropyl alcohol.
I find the tape doesn't quite have the "grip" of a traction tire, but it does help with traction while allow some slippage - which is actually a nice effect for a steam engine. But most of all, I don't have to remove side rods and linkage to replace a traction tire.
Another idea, would be to put a slit across the rubber traction tire so that it is open. Then using the same technique as above, cut a piece of 3M Carpet Tape on a piece of clean glass. Then you have to carefully remove the piece of cut carpet tape from the glass (since this dual side stickly, there's only backing paper on one side of the tape), place this on your drive wheel, remove the backing paper and then adhere the traction tire.
I've read where some have used some kind of super glue to adhere traction tires. That could be another way to go, after you cut open the traction tire. Otherwise I see no other way, other than removing the side rods and linkage.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Brianel,
Thanks for the tip. I immediately went to my local hardware store looking for the 3M tape. 3M has so many products, some of which look alike, that I was not sure exactly whether the tape I got was the right one. The name of it was not "Step Tape", but something like "traction tape" or "non-skid" tape. I was able to buy one foot, which is all I needed. The color of the material is gray and has a rubbery feel to it.
I managed to install it on both wheels. However, I had to remove the middle set of simulated brake shoes to allow fitting. The engine rolls on them o.k., but the tread pattern seems to make the engine shake a bit. I have not replaced the brake shoes yet, but I suspect the tread will rub it.
Did I get the right stuff? If not, I would appreciate a bit more info on the tape, such as what surface pattern it has and the color.
Thanks,
Billbobboy
Billbobboy, yes you got it. And yes, 3M indeed does make a wide variety of these kinds of products. I've gotten the stuff in white and grey and it is a plastic-sort of material with a pebble-like patter to it. I've also used a black version that has a sand-paper grit kind of surface.
None of the stuff is thicker than any traction tire I have removed. So if you are putting the tape on to a grooved wheel that had a traction tire, I can't imagine there being any interference. But MTH steamers are certainly more detailed than anything I've ever used the tape on. I find the tape handy for lesser-expensive postwar steamers than never had a traction tire to begin with. The tape isn't that thick to adversely affect operation of the loco. Though, like a traction tire, it will eliminate electrical conductivity with that particular wheel of the loco.
I've never had any real trouble removing the tape. A small jewelers type of screwdriver with a straight edge will do the trick. Either 91% Isopropyl Alcohol or an old rag or tissue dapped in mineral spirits will do the trick of removing any sticky residue left by the tape. That goes for the carpet tape too, which I use to re-adhere regular traction tires.
I cannot scientifically say how much better the step tape works as a traction tire over a normal rubber one. But I can say that it does help with traction, though maybe not as much as a rubber tire. But using the tape certainly allows the option of not having to remove side rods or linkage.
Or in the case of the RMT Beep, where the only way to remove or replace a traction tire is to pull the entire locomotive chassis apart because there is so little room between the side-frames and the wheel to wiggle on or off a traction tire.
Thanks for the info. I have run the engine around a few times and it seems to do o.k. What I have not done yet is run it thru several switches, because I have not yet wired them. Also, due to other demands on my time during the holidays I have not replaced the brake shoes to see if they will fit.
I am a bit curious about the "second" method you mentioned: putting double sided tape on the wheels and then wrapping the cut traction tire on top. Specifically, the traction tires are smaller than the circumference of the wheel and normally require stretching it over the wheel. That appears to take some effort as those tires take considerably more effort to stretch than a rubber band. The bottom line of this is that it appears to me the tire would not reach around the wheel, resulting in a gap between the ends. Or is it possible to stretch the tire's two ends together and the tape is strong enough to hold them in place?
Regards,
I have not tried this but it is something I see frequently. A lot of guys are using RTV silicone black high temp automotive gasket maker for traction tires with great success. You trowel it on and once it sets up, trim it with a razor knife. There is no need to remove side rods. You do need to remove the shell so you can turn the drivers with the motor shaft while working in the silicone.
Sounds like your siderod bolts are ceased up. A common thing with disimalar metals. Some penetrating oil may help if you absolutely must remove them. I would try giving each a shot, let it soak for an hour, give them another shot, let it soak, give each bolt a nudge with the nut driver, give them another shot of penetrating oil, and let it soak. After a good soaking, try nudging them back and fourth and see if they break free. The trick is to never overtorque them while nudging them. They should eventually break free after several nudgings and shots of penetrating oil.
John,
Thanks for the new idea. The RTV sounds like a doable method, though might require a bit of an artistic touch to get the slicone smooth. Perhaps a non-stick type small spatula would be helpful.
I gave the penetrating oil consideration, but I was afraid I might make a mess. The only penetrating solution I have is the spray type. I did not want to get that stuff all over the engine. Perhaps there is a version that is not a spray.
Anyway, thanks for the tip. Have a great Holiday.
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