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The Pullman Musings Of An Old Man

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The Pullman Musings Of An Old Man
Posted by GN_Fan on Saturday, October 31, 2020 7:15 AM
The other day I found myself wide awake at 4AM taking in the quietness of the early morning.  Sitting alone in the dark on the living room couch, there was barely enough light to see, but I could make out the cover of Classic Trains special issue titled Pullman.  It brought back thoughts of long gone exploits of decades past, memories that are now clouded by the mists of time.  My first Pullman ride occurred on May 12, 1967, between Chicago and St. Louis.  That’s a really strange routing, isn’t it?  Well, that was the day I was invited with open arms to help defend the US from the insidious Communists in Vietnam.  After spreading my cheeks for an indifferent doctor, we were herded like cattle to the now demolished Central Station where we boarded a train to take us to who knows where. 
Feeling like I’m on my way to a death camp, I was happy to see a couple of nice, shiny Union Pacific Pullmans coupled to the rear of Illinois Central # 9, the Seminole, a train I was intimately familiar with during my years at the Univ. of Illinois at Champagne.  I made up my mind to find a room rather than a section, something I was successful at.  Things are a bit fuzzy now, but I did make friends with my roommate who talked me into going forward to the lounge.  For me, it was a BIG mistake…the place was jammed with newly drafted GI’s trying to get drunk before getting killed in the jungles of Nam.  And with no place to even sit down, I went back to my room, where I found the berths already turned down.  Absolutely exhausted, I turned in for the night. 
Somewhere in southern Illinois, we were REALLY ripping…I could hear ballast bouncing along the bottom of the car.  During the night, most likely at Carbondale, we sat motionless for a long time.  My Official Guide says we arrived at 10:15 PM and departed at 5:10 AM on # 16, the northbound Chickasaw, arriving in St Louis at 7:40.  I remember waking up as we were now going a lot slower and crossing a huge bridge (Eads?) and in the distance I caught a glimpse of the Gateway Arch.  About that time the Pullman porter came in and instructed me to get up and dressed as we’d be arriving shortly.  Herded off the train in the big trainshed, we were led to a restaurant where we were fed and watered a non-descript meal.  Still having no clue where we were going, we were led to another train, this time on the Frisco.  Some 53 years later, my official guide says it was train # 3, the Will Rogers, which turned out to be the LAST RUN of that train.  I boarded the last car, a heavyweight coach.  Along with the newly recruited GI’s, the car was full of RR fans, which made me feel at home.  I crowded into the rear vestibule as we pulled out of the station, with my thoughts wandering to the idea that we were being routed thru the freight yard.  We never got above about 15 MPH, and freight cars were everywhere.  Finally out on the main, we made good time on some good, deeply ballasted track.  At each stop some clown with a bugle played taps as we departed.  The bugle was irritating for me and spoiled the departures, but the 6 wheel trucks on jointed rail was sweet music in my ears.  it was a bittersweet trip at best.  Ft. Leonard Wood, Missouri would be my new home for a while, then off to battle, and to a very uncertain future. 
Well, if anyone is wondering, I wasn’t killed in the jungles of Nam.  A kind of miracle happened as I was assigned MOS (military occupational specialty) 67H20…an OV-1 Mohawk crew chief….a twin engine, ejection seat, turbo prop, STOL (short takeoff and landing) reconnaissance aircraft.  And yah, I hated planes and now I was a flyboy, at least I had to keep them flying and to fly in them when needed.  The OV-1 was the coolest of all the cool military aircraft I ever flew in.  Later, I was to find out that my plane was # 60744 built in 1960, painted snow white with bright red trim.  Believe it or not, the Mohawks flew in the Gulf War many decades later….it was that good.
After basic training in Missouri I was sent to Ft Rucker, Alabama to learn the principles of flight and how to properly maintain the most complex aircraft the Army had.  This is where I got to take a round trip on some unknown ACL train from Dothan to Montgomery.  I caught a northbound train in Dothan, layed over about 2 hours in Montgomery, then caught the southbound back.  It’s strange the Official Guide does not list anything close to that.  Anyway, I spent my entire Army stint with 20 or so enlisted men and an equal number of pilots (all officers...mostly majors) on a Navy base in New Jersey….Lakehurst Naval Air Station where the Hindenburg burned.  We were 40 grunts with 5,000 swabbies and 5,000 jarheads….at the height of the Vietnam War.  It was MASH on steroids…the most un-military posting imaginable.  Got a few stories about ALMOST running out of gas over NJ…it’s not cool to have a flameout over Atlantic City and have to eject, especially when the low fuel thingy happened twice, but that’s for another time or maybe another place.  If I learned ANYTHING with those episodes, the low fuel warning on the Master Caution panel is God.  And non-truncated exception writeups in the flight log is the Right Hand Of God and can be a life or death type thing.
I digress.  Prior to all of this, while attending the Univ of Montana, I happened upon a letter to the editor in the local paper asking for penpals from Montana.  I responded, and 3 year later while in the Army stationed in NJ, we were married in Trieste, Italy.  Yah, against all odds, and against both the UCMJ (uniform code of military justice) and Italian law at the time, I married my penpal 10 days after meeting her for the first time. 
And yes, it was done legally but with a LOT of help and strings pulled.  A city councilman, the Asst. American Council in Trieste, and my Army CO back in Jersey all helped.  And yah, when I got back to my unit, I was called into the first shirt’s office to endure a 45+ minute chewing out.  But, after 50+ years, we’re still together.  Anyway, I digress again.  Back to railroads.  This is where it gets REALLY fuzzy.  I landed a job with the Northern Pacific Railroad as a forester, and as such, I was entitled to a company pass.  I applied for and was granted a round trip from Missoula, MT to New York.  Our new son was one year old and mamma wanted to show her new kid to her mother in Italy.  The two were to fly out of New York without me.
We boarded the train in Missoula and took our place in a nice cozy bedroom on the North Coast Limited.  Pat took the upper while I slept with the kid on the lower.  I was miserable over fear of squashing the kid in my sleep.  We arrived in Chicago during a fantastic blizzard that shut down the entire city, and staying with my elderly grandparents, getting back downtown to catch the Century to NY was not an option.  Somehow Pat and our son got to the airport and flew from there, and I headed back to Montana a few days later.  As an aside, our one year old went thru a dozen diapers while on the flight, so I guess I’m not the only one getting a bad case of the trots when flying.  Pat did NOT have fun on that fight.  After all these decades, I don’t remember much else, sorry. 
In any case, those are the musings of an old man at 4 AM looking at a Pullman magazine in the dark, sipping a Grand Mariner.  Maybe I’ll have another shot to loosen my memory.  We’ve traveled coast-to-coast from Boston to both Seattle and Frisco on Amtrak, but that’s like comparing eating Alaskan crab legs to a Big Mac.  And yah, while traveling to my Army posting in NJ, I ate dinner on the Century, complete with heavy silver, finger bowls, special monogrammed china, and all that.  It’s stuff to remember, even if I could only afford chicken.  It’s too bad as a student at the Univ of Montana I never had enough cash to eat in the diner on the North Coast Limited.  But on those 4 or 5 round trips I made between Missoula and Chicago (1,675 miles or 2,680 Km) , the meals in the Traveler’s Rest car was “not too shabby” as Montanans would say.  NP’s signature baked potato and a nice rainbow trout on the Mainstreeter out of Spokane will do just fine too.
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Posted by York1 on Saturday, October 31, 2020 10:45 AM

Neat story!  Thanks for sharing it.

York1 John       

I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer?  He said, "No, but it will seem longer."

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Posted by charlie hebdo on Saturday, October 31, 2020 12:07 PM

Good story.   You were a student at UI and Montana? 

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Posted by GN_Fan on Saturday, October 31, 2020 1:43 PM

charlie hebdo

Good story.   You were a student at UI and Montana? 

Yes, and add UNLV to that list.  I started out at the U of Ill back in '61 - 62.  I didn't like it much so I transfered to the Univ of Montana, where I graduated with a BS in Forestry with a major in Timber Mgt.  I worked in that field until the big crash of '78 which lasted thru at least '82, leaving me with not much of a future in forestry.  My wife had graduated from U of Mt too, but had a rough time finding a job in the tight market.  We pulled up stakes and moved to Vegas, where she found a job in 3 days and I got skunked.  I remember one place I went to look for work and was told the place was closing in 3 days.  That wasn't too far out of line.  It took me a while to come to the conclusion that my degree was useless,, so I went back to schhol to get a business degree.  I graduared UNLV with majors in accounting and IT and wound up on the dean's list for 2 semesters.  So yah, three schools, 2 degrees, and 3 majors. 

 

 
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Posted by charlie hebdo on Sunday, November 1, 2020 9:44 AM

GN_Fan

 

 
charlie hebdo

Good story.   You were a student at UI and Montana? 

 

 

Yes, and add UNLV to that list.  I started out at the U of Ill back in '61 - 62.  I didn't like it much so I transfered to the Univ of Montana, where I graduated with a BS in Forestry with a major in Timber Mgt.  I worked in that field until the big crash of '78 which lasted thru at least '82, leaving me with not much of a future in forestry.  My wife had graduated from U of Mt too, but had a rough time finding a job in the tight market.  We pulled up stakes and moved to Vegas, where she found a job in 3 days and I got skunked.  I remember one place I went to look for work and was told the place was closing in 3 days.  That wasn't too far out of line.  It took me a while to come to the conclusion that my degree was useless,, so I went back to schhol to get a business degree.  I graduared UNLV with majors in accounting and IT and wound up on the dean's list for 2 semesters.  So yah, three schools, 2 degrees, and 3 majors. 

 

 
 

You were ahead of your time as a non-traditional student and retraining for a different career.  Congrats! 

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Posted by GN_Fan on Sunday, November 1, 2020 11:14 AM

I don't think I was ahead of my time, not at all.  I just could see the writing on the wall and I had to do what needed to be done, as I'm a survivor at heart.  What was a bit strange tho was to be 45 and the oldest fossil in class.  All of my classmates could have been my children!  And OMG, it was HARD.  I was taking max loads of some the hardest courses imaginable, working 2 jobs to keep the family afloat and still maintain something of family life.  I had to petition the Drean of the School of Business to go into overload if I were two meet my goal of a second degree in two years flat.  Luckiliy, I was granted the overload.  Summer school, max loads during normal semesters....but I met my goal.  I wound up getting up at 3AM to cram for an exam because my wife and 13 year old son needed some attention in the evening from a totally freaked out husband and father.  It was NOT an easy time in my life, but it was neccessary.  My wife went on to pass the CPA exam and my son eventually got his CPA and a Masters in Business.  We're doing  OK as old expat geezers retired in Italy and our son is sitting pretty well too.  But it's been a pretty wild ride to say the least. Adventure is our motto....you only have one life....so live it to the max!

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Posted by charlie hebdo on Tuesday, November 3, 2020 8:56 AM

You are very modest. Not easy. 

I always wanted to recreate the beginning of a Death in Venice and take a ship from Trieste to Venice,  rather than arrive by train as I usually do. 

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Posted by 54light15 on Tuesday, November 3, 2020 11:05 AM

When I was in the navy, I took a ship to Trieste and then took the train to Venice. In 1978 in Trieste you could see that the streetcar tracks had been recently paved over and there were two old streetcars that looked like Peter Witts sitting in a train yard as well as several steam engines. I rode my bike to a locomotive service area and there were several steam engines there with the smokebox doors open. I didn't see any active steam but an officer on my ship, a fellow train buff saw a steam engine switching cars in the harbour area. 

Another thing about Italy, I was there in 2004 in Florence and Siena and at every station, the infrastructure of steam was still present- water columns and so forth and there was a 2-6-2 sitting near the Siena station that obvously wasn't a derelict. An excursion loco I would think .

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Posted by GN_Fan on Friday, November 6, 2020 2:46 AM

charlie hebdo

You are very modest. Not easy. 

I always wanted to recreate the beginning of a Death in Venice and take a ship from Trieste to Venice,  rather than arrive by train as I usually do. 

 

 
Yup, not easy is right.  Anyway, I've been an expat for about 15 years, and as far as I am aware, there are no ships plying between Trieste and Venice.  There are summer only vaparettos out of Trieste with stops at Barcola and Miramare, both kind of a suburb of Trieste.  To give you an idea of distance, Miramar is the farthest out and is a stop on Trenitalia at KM 7.  A few go as far as Sistiana, probably 15 or so KM out.   There also is a summer only hydrofoil the goes to some of the tourist island off tha Damatian Coast in Croatia.  
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Posted by GN_Fan on Friday, November 6, 2020 5:07 AM

54light15

When I was in the navy, I took a ship to Trieste and then took the train to Venice. In 1978 in Trieste you could see that the streetcar tracks had been recently paved over and there were two old streetcars that looked like Peter Witts sitting in a train yard as well as several steam engines. I rode my bike to a locomotive service area and there were several steam engines there with the smokebox doors open. I didn't see any active steam but an officer on my ship, a fellow train buff saw a steam engine switching cars in the harbour area. 

Another thing about Italy, I was there in 2004 in Florence and Siena and at every station, the infrastructure of steam was still present- water columns and so forth and there was a 2-6-2 sitting near the Siena station that obvously wasn't a derelict. An excursion loco I would think .

 

I spent 2 weeks in Trieste back in 1968 and wound up on a bluff overlooking the old port.  As I was pretty much on a pre-wedding (long story) I could not investgate the steam loco switching down below.  After getting married, I flew back to the US with my new bride following a month later.  Those two weeks were a blur and I don't remember much about anything other than my love.  Anyway, we stayed in the US until 2005 when we left to retire here.  By then, the old port was abandoned and a new one built toward Muggia that could accomodate larger ships.  The old port is slowly being renovated but the yard lead to the port has been permanently severed and the yard lies abandoned, the orphaned tracks still in place.  

There are really 2 passenger stations here.  Trieste Centrale is served by Trenitalia and is the only one used at this time, with around 35 westward trains daily for all destinations.  The other station, Campo Marzio, was the western Terminus of the Trans-Alpina Railway that linked Trieste with Vienna via parts of what is now the Slovenian and Austrian railway systems.  The year was 1906 and Trieste was part of Austria and was it's only port.  WW I interveened and the Austr-Hungarian empire was disolved.  Then in 1945 when Yugoslavia was formed and became Communist under Toto, the link was permanently severed.  

Presently, the station is being renovated and the steel and glass trainshed rebuilt after it's removal during WWII.  The local RR club occasionally runs both steam and electric "fan trips" out of the station and has a big collection of vintage equipment, including several steam locomotives.  With two leads you can still take multiple routes via several junctions.  One lead out of the station and main rail yard limbs a moderately steep grade out of the port, piercing a ridge right behind our building, then climbs steadily until it reaches Villa Opicina, up on the Carsian Plateau not far out of town.  From there it connects with the Trenitalia lines going into Slovenia and a connection with the Slovenian Railway.  There's a Y near Opicina station, and the other leg leads down the hill to Aurisina and the main trunk line to Venice and Gorizia.  The latter then connects with a branch of the Sovenian Railway, which was the orginal Trans-Alpina.  The line out of the yard is well maintained but lightly used because of the grades.  

Frieght trains entering Trieste leave the Trieste-Venice mainline just before entering Trieste Centrale via a long single track tunnel that passes under our building and under the high grade line.  We live on the 9th floor and still can hear the rumble of the trains passing underground.  There has been rumors of Trenitalia restarting passenger service to Slovenia, but I don't thinkit has started yet.

And yes, Trieste had a jillion tram lines that ran everwhere.  But like in the US, they were seen as old fashioned and abandoned in the '60's.  There is however, the Opicina Tram, a funincular with both a 28% funincular grade and interurban style running.  It runs from Piazza Garibaldi in town, then up the hill to Opicina.  It's currently out of service due to a cornfield meet about two years ago.  The state was cash strapped and repairs were delayed.  I understand that it will run again in the spring, if COVID will allow it.

For what it's worth, Milan, Naples, and Turin still run Peter Whitts.  I've had the privelege of riding them in Milan a few years back.  Pretty snarfy.  And the water columns are still standing around here also.  

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Posted by NorthBrit on Friday, November 6, 2020 6:55 AM

Really interesting stories everyone.  Thanks for sharing.

My journies on a Pullman train have been twice; a week apart.   The first was on the 'North Briton'  Leeds to Newcastle, UK  to see family in Northumberland.  Being only four years of age and being told to 'sit still'  was a difficult thing to do.Laugh

The return journey  was much the same.  I was just in awe at the opulence.   The train staff attending to people's needs.

One train journey that really sticks in my mind (not on a Pullman service, so I hope you allow me to tell).

From being born I lived with my Aunt and Uncle and two cousins (Jean 8 year old and Margaret  6).   We were going to Bridlington (by the sea) for a weeks holiday.

It was a Saturday morning.  Everything was packed.  A train to catch 9.37am from Leeds City station.

Uncle could not travel until later.  He worked a six day week.

There we were, Aunt, Jean, Margaret and I at the station.   At only four years of age I could not believe how dark, and very smoky the ticket office area was.  My Aunt bought the train tickets and immediately a Porter put our luggage on his barrow,  "Which train, Madam?"

"Bridlington," Aunt replied and off we scurried to the platform.   

We boarded the train and stowed our luggage in the racks above.  Looking out the window a huge railway clock was staring at us.  09.03.   Another two people boarded our compartment; a husband and wife.

Aunt looked on the on the platform.  A tea lady was serving teas.  There was no queue.  

"I'll get us some tea,"  Aunt said and with her handbag got of the train and headed towards the tea lady.

It was now 09.07.    Aunt was being served.  "CHUFF, CHUFF,  CHUFF.  The train departed the platform.  Jean looked out on to the platform.  Aunt was besde herself seeing the train depart.

We screamed and cried.    The husband and wife in our compartment were also shocked.  It was a little time before we calmed down.

The Ticket Inspector came to inspect our tickets.   We had none.  Aunt had them in her handbag.  I think it was the fact we had tear-stained faces that he believed us.

On arrival at Bridlington we struggled with the luggage to the barrier to leave the station.  The Ticket Inspector was wary of our story and he told us to wait at the barrier until the next train from Leeds arrived.   The husband and wife waited also.

Thirty minutes later,  relief.   Aunt was rushing along the platform.

Hugs and tears and all was well again.  The husband and wife (who we never knew)  were thanked and a holiday began.

(We found out later the train we boarded and departed 09.07  was an extra one because of extra demand.)

Thanks for reading.

Stay safe.

David

 

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Posted by charlie hebdo on Friday, November 6, 2020 8:50 AM

Great story!  Fortunately,  there was frequent train service then. 

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Posted by 54light15 on Friday, November 6, 2020 9:51 AM

There still is frequent service in the U.K. For example, I went from Waterloo station to the town of Ford on the south coast as there is a huge model train shop next door to the station. I was thinking, how long will I have to wait before the next train to London? I was thinking about the time I took Amtrak from Saratoga Springs, New York to Penn with two trains a day. Looking at the schedule in the station, I saw that trains to London ran ever twenty minutes. I never actually went to the town of Ford, but all that is at the station is a platform with not much around it except for the building with the model shop. 

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Posted by NorthBrit on Friday, November 6, 2020 9:52 AM

charlie hebdo

Great story!  Fortunately,  there was frequent train service then. 

 

Yes.  Just after WW2 nearly everybody took their weeks holiday within a two week period.  They also wanted to go to the coast.  Therefore extra trains were provided.  At the ticket office the officer assumed by the time we would arrive at the platform the 09.07 would have departed, so told my Aunt the train would depart 09.37.   The Porter had us racing for the 09.07.

Those were the days.

David

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Posted by daveklepper on Sunday, November 8, 2020 2:44 AM

Regarding NorthBrit"s tale, recall that British Pullmans were (are?) the equialent of North American 1st-Class all=parlor trains, not overnight sleeping-car service.

The Brighton Bell . London - Brighton, was DC MU-electric

The Bournmouth Bell was the last in steam, I believe, still so in 1960.

Normal seating was back-back with tables between facing chars.   Two seats one side, one on the other.

Tea and biscuts complimentary.

A dream to replicate this Jerusalem - Tel Aviv via the old scenic line (Samson's Cave) with restored British steam as power.

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Posted by charlie hebdo on Sunday, November 8, 2020 7:01 AM

daveklepper

Regarding NorthBrit"s tale, recall that British Pullmans were (are?) the equialent of North American 1st-Class all=parlor trains, not overnight sleeping-car service.

The Brighton Bell . London - Brighton, was DC MU-electric

The Bournmouth Bell was the last in steam, I believe, still so in 1960.

Normal seating was back-back with tables between facing chars.   Two seats one side, one on the other.

Tea and biscuts complimentary.

A dream to replicate this Jerusalem - Tel Aviv via the old scenic line (Samson's Cave) with restored British stem as power.

 

That would be fantastic!! 

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Posted by 54light15 on Sunday, November 8, 2020 10:33 AM

The Brighton Belle is currenty being restored to service-I'm sure looking forward to riding it. I had a look at it at the Barrow Hill roundhouse a few years ago and work was well underway. It's just like restoring an automobile (which I have done) except everything is a lot heavier. 

http://brightonbelle.com/ 

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Posted by Electroliner 1935 on Monday, November 9, 2020 1:16 AM

Was thre any connection between the US's PULLMAN and British Pullman?

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Posted by NorthBrit on Monday, November 9, 2020 7:13 AM

Electroliner 1935

Was thre any connection between the US's PULLMAN and British Pullman?

 

 

The first Pullman Railway Coach to enter service in the UK was in 1874 from Bradford Forster Square to London St Pancras after an assembly of imports from the United States, in an operation pioneered by the Midland Railway, working with the Pullman Company in Chicago. The coach "Midland" was of clerestory roofed design with balconies at both ends. The concept of luxury coaches spread to the other UK railway companies thereafter.

The PCC was formed in 1882 and named after the Pullman concept pioneered in the United States by the American railroader George Pullman. The company entered into contracts with the railway companies to operate Pullman services over their lines.

 

David

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Posted by Overmod on Monday, November 9, 2020 11:18 AM

Electroliner 1935
Was thre any connection between the US's PULLMAN and British Pullman?

It's a fascinating and somewhat convoluted story, which should be followed up through the consolidation of CIWL and British Pullman under Lord Dalziel at what I recall as the end of the Edwardian era.  There are a couple of European web sites that give the precise chronology, politics, etc. (once you know to search on CIWL and Pullman at the same time, possibly using Nagelmackers and Dalziel as additional search terms...)

TL;DR -- not really, not for any part of sleeping-car history most people have any practical interest in here.

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