Coast Starlight

[Anonymous]

I am planning a one way trip on the Coast Starlight for sometime in December through February.  I will fly to one of the end point cities and take the train from there.  So here are some questions that I have:

1. Is the scenary better riding the train north from LAX or south from Seattle?
2. Is the secnary better between LAX and Oakland or between Portland and Seattle?
3. I am considering taking the train during the daylight segments only, i.e. from LAX to Oakland (not all daylight), flying to Portland, and taking a Cascade train from Portland to Seattle or a similar segmented trip in reverse.  Would I miss any significant scenary doing it this way or in similar southbound segments?
4. Is the Pacific parlor car really worth a first class ticket?  I am considering taking a coach.  I don't plan to spend anymore nights in one of Amtrak's sleepers.  They are over priced and not very comfortable to boot.  But if the Pacific parlor car is worth the money, I would book a seat in a roomette from say LAX to Oakland. 

Looking forward to getting some good advice.

 

[travelingengineer]

Regarding "scenery": If you are into truly magnificent volcano mountains in WA and OR, you definitely ought to have access to a window on the east side of the train, regardless of direction. Of course, a Roomette has a window on only one side, whereas a Bedroom has only one window also but one can quite easily look out one's door to the other side view. Looking westward any direction gives you an occasional view of the ocean. Regarding "Parlour Car": Definitely a choice experience, but only because it has: 1) a few different meal entre options over that which is available in the Dining Car and 2) more personal service by the full-time car attendant. Of course, meals in both the Dining Car and the Parlour Car are free to passengers in Sleeping Cars (Roomettes and Bedrooms). Am sorry to hear that you choose not to take a full Bedroom, which has so many advantages over the Roomette. In a Roomette, there is absolutely no room to dress (except in the aisle) when the bed is made up, and where toilet and shower facilities are shared and oft not as clean as one would appreciate. I trust that you know that Bedrooms (and Roomettes) are often available at four (4) different price points, as much as a thousand dollars difference for the same accommodation, but you have to know how to get the cheaper rate.

[PNWRMNM]

Sam,

I concur with engineer about getting a seat on the east side of the train to see the mountains between Portland and Seattle which I have rode,

Using that logic, if you want to see the Pacific between LA and OAK, then you want the west side of the train.

Mac

[Deggesty]

You can cross the Cascades by day, either north or southbound--but I do not consider the scenery as spectacular as it was when I first went from Los Angeles to Seattle, in 1971, as the vista is not as open now as it was then. However, I still enjoyed it last year, when we went both ways. Last year, as we went north, an on-board guide called attention to what has been styled "the Grand Canyon of Oregon," it is is magnificant; I do not now recall if it is north or south of the Cascade crossing, but I believe it is south. Of course, if you fly between Oakland and Portland, you will absolutely miss both of these places. Why not fly between Oakland and Klamath Falls? (I have no knowledge whatsoever of air service between these two points.)

Running alongside the Pacific, south of Santa Barbara., you may well see more if you go north than you do if you go south.

Going south,you will probably have three meals in the diner from Oakland to Los Angeles (unless the train is running late), --but only one meal (lunch) there from Seattle to Portland; going north, you would have lunch and dinner on board between Los Angeles and Oakland, and dinner north of Portland. 

These are some of the differences between southward and northward travel.

One thing: if you do travel coach, do not spend all your time talking on a cell phone; you will be extremely unpopular with the other people in your car.

[Deggesty]

You can cross the Cascades by day, either north or southbound--but I do not consider the scenery as spectacular as it was when I first went from Los Angeles to Seattle, in 1971, as the vista is not as open now as it was then. However, I still enjoyed it last year, when we went both ways. Last year, as we went north, an on-board guide called attention to what has been styled "the Grand Canyon of Oregon," it is is magnificant; I do not now recall if it is north or south of the Cascade crossing, but I believe it is south. Of course, if you fly between Oakland and Portland, you will absolutely miss both of these places. Why not fly between Oakland and Klamath Falls? (I have no knowledge whatsoever of air service between these two points.)

Running alongside the Pacific, south of Santa Barbara., you may well see more if you go north than you do if you go south.

Going south,you will probably have three meals in the diner from Oakland to Los Angeles (unless the train is running late), --but only one meal (lunch) there from Seattle to Portland; going north, you would have lunch and dinner on board between Los Angeles and Oakland, and dinner north of Portland. 

These are some of the differences between southward and northward travel.

One thing: if you do travel coach, do not spend all your time talking on a cell phone; you will be extremely unpopular with the other people in your car.

[schlimm]

Why not ride both ways?  I think you'll see the coast north of Santa Barbara in the daytime only northbound and unfortunately Mt. Shasta, etc. are at night in either direction.  The train is seldom on-time, but what's the rush?  It is, after all, just a land cruise!!

[Avianwatcher]

I travel on the Starlight often and if I'm going full trip the bedroom is well worth the money.  If your only going one way take the north bound and YES the Parlour Car is worth the trip.  It takes you back to the days of the streamliner in service and comfort.  I found the meals very good and we eat all our meals in the Parlour Car.  Also the staff are the best on any Amtrak train which does make it the best train in the USA!

[trainsBuddy]

I find that it's usually doesn't matter which direction I'm traveling on the train. I spend most of my time in the Lounge anyways. Far more important is what time of the day the train passes over most interesting scenery.

We traveled on the Starlight last Spring and it was a blast. Missed Roast Duck dish in the Parlor car by one day, so dined in the Diner instead. Don't miss out the wine tasting event for a nominal price. We felt like royalty, tasting wine and cheese in the Parlor car - turned my g/f opinion around about traveling on the train in my favor

[Dragoman]

If you can schedule the trip sometime near a full moon (now don't get ahead of me here!), it might be worth doing the full trip on the train.  While I haven't had the pleasure of the Oakland -- Portland overnight leg (yet!), I've been into that country, and the views of a moonlit Mt. Shasta might be worth the trip, even at night!

[BillParksAV]

I highly recommend riding northbound.  For me the two scenic highlights are the ocean view from Ventura to the north end of Vandenburg AFB and the Cascade crossing.  Both of these are mid-day going north and evening to dark going south (depending a lot on time of year).  I'll second the full moon idea.  I've seen Mount Shasta and that area with bright moonlight, and it's awesome.  If you're running really late northbound, you'll get to see this part of northern California in daylight.  Going south, running late tends to mean missing more.  The "Grand Canyon" mentioned is probably the Williamson River canyon where the train climbs from the Klamath Lake basin to the higher plateau.  That grade from Chiloquin to Kirk used to be a helper district in steam days.  This view is also daylight going north and nighttime going south.  I recommend getting railfan timetables and/or maps so that you'll have a better idea of where you are.

[ecoli]

• If you board in LA as a coach passenger, look for the free-standing desk where they hand out boarding passes in advance of departure. If you get in line early, and if you're sufficiently charming, you may be able to convince the Amtrak employee to give you a window seat on the side of the train you prefer (e.g. the west side if you want to see the ocean.) Just don't count on it, because on one occasion the coach attendant ignored the seat assignments provided before departure, and assigned all the seats himself.
• As of July 2011, the wine tasting in the Pacific Parlor Car was free (rather than the "nominal charge" mentioned in an earlier posting) to sleeping car passengers. (For that matter, sleeping car passengers were offered complimentary champagne after boarding in LA and in Portland.) To me, the Parlor Car is pleasant but not overwhelmingly more so than the Sightseer Lounge which is open to all passengers; however, you might want to discount my opinion since I think the roomettes are great! To each his own. You may also want to consider the perk of access to the Metropolitan Lounge room in Portland and the Trax lounge area in LA--handy if you are sightseeing and need an attendant to look after your luggage, etc.
• A few years ago, the Coast Starlight was usually late, but recently it has usually been on time. According to the Amtrak web site, 90% of the northbound trips were on time this past August, and the southbound trips were only a little worse. That said, the northbound trip does minimize the chance that you'll miss the Santa Barbara-area coastline due to darkness.

[Sunnyland]

I rode this in 2003 from Portland to Emeryville, but part of the portion was by bus because of track work.

I know the old Coast Daylight had great scenery running along the coast north of Santa Barbara, but don't know if the Starlight runs that same route or not, as I have not been on it south of Emeryville.

The Pacific Parlour car would be worth it in my opinion.  They kept the diner open for our arrival at 10 pm from the bus and we were given complimentary wine, since we'd missed the wine and cheese tasting. The steward even gave me a small bottle of wine to take with me.

I would probably just do the roomette on future first class trips, it is cheaper and would work, I don't need the extra space and I can share a bathroom with other travelers in my sleeping car. I would not do long-distance by coach any longer, rode too many of those trains on trips with my parents and people can be more obnoxious and not as polite today as they were "back in the day."  Dad always let Mom and me sit together and traveling alone, I'm not sure who my seat mate might be, so I'd rather have my privacy. And the newer toilets stop up more often with a lot of usage, unlike the old "on the tracks" style I rode on our longer trips. They never stopped up. !!!

[corwinda]

Based on the time of year you'll be traveling northbound will be much better for the Oakland-Portland  segment. Mostly because southbound will go through the mountains at night. (Normal time out of Eugene southbound about 5:30; which is also about sunset.)