Watching 2 guys walk along a track yesterday made me think about crossties, or railroad ties, as I call them. Questions:
1. What determines the spacing of ties? Why not farther apart? Is it true, as I once heard, that they are deliberately spaced to make walking difficult and thus discourage it?
2. Are they still made of white oak? Where do they find that many white oak trees? Some other wood? What does an installed tie cost a railroad?
3. The ties I see today look to my eyes exactly like the ones the NKP used in 1955. But is that true? Are the dimensions the same?
4. Tie plates. They always appear to have four holes for spikes, but I don't think I've ever seen 4 spikes per tie plate anywhere. What's up with that? And the Shaker Heights Rapid Transit didn't even use tie plates; they just spiked the rail to the tie. Was that common practice for streetcars or interurbans in the Golden Age?
5. What's the report card on concrete ties? Why are they used in some places but not in others? What's the trend? How much of a factor is cost?
6. What's the average weight of a tie? Ever seen anyone carry a tie by himself?
NKP guy1. What determines the spacing of ties? Why not farther apart?
I've often wondered if there was some traffic-based formula, as well?
In general:
(1) 19 1/2" to 22" tie spacing (22-24 " per 39' rail) dependant on tonnage and railroad ... any closer and you can't effectively tamp the tie.
(2) White oak typical in curves, DougFir in the tangent. Azobe if you can afford it last forever, but you will need mucho help getting the fastener in the tie (screw or spike needs pre-drilled with plenty of spare drill bits. (Composite and plastic ties have very limited use, fail in tension any have proven poor performance, but people keep looking for a better solution or treatment ... haven't found the magic bullet yet.)
(3) 7"x9" x 8'-0"/8-6"/9'-0" cross ties ....take your pick
(4)4-10 holes per plate spread out the chances of a spike-killed tie....All holes filled with spikes-screws means something isn't right, trouble brewing... Streetcar bubbas don't have to worry about reverse cant and tonnage until speed and surface become an issue with the toys. Later in life the tie plates' value becomes obvious to the toy train people movers.
(5) Unless you have good subgrade and plenty of heavy equipment - DON'T DO IT! (Concrete ties don't suffer derailments well* (mudmonster breeding zone as well), drive signalmen nuts, and to this day suffer quality issues and don't like being in tension for any reason - can break just being unloaded)).... and then there is the lack of impact cushioning and deadweight on structures speading up decay
(6) Unless you're godzilla or a relative, you are not picking-up a freshly treated tie and walking off with it.
* When that happens, they are good for curb stops in parking lots and retaining walls, little else. (damn shiny toys not staying on the rail play havoc)
mudchicken(1) 19 1/2" to 22" tie spacing (22-24 " per 39' rail) dependant on tonnage and railroad ... any closer and you can't effectively tamp the tie.
Just curious, but is the standard specification for tie spacing cited as "on center", or clear space between?
Convicted One mudchicken (1) 19 1/2" to 22" tie spacing (22-24 " per 39' rail) dependant on tonnage and railroad ... any closer and you can't effectively tamp the tie. Just curious, but is the standard specification for tie spacing cited as "on center", or clear space between?
mudchicken (1) 19 1/2" to 22" tie spacing (22-24 " per 39' rail) dependant on tonnage and railroad ... any closer and you can't effectively tamp the tie.
Thanks, mudchicken, for your information. I enjoyed your joke about "toys."
And may your recent retirement be a long and happy one.
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