Coupling on curves

[gabe]

I realize this will be a stupid question to those who know the answer. But, do rail cars ever have trouble coupling on curves?

For instance, when model railroading and two cars are on a curve, the couples are not perfectly lined up due to the cant of the curve and it is impossible to couple.

I realize radii are not the same on a real railroad, but sometimes you see some pretty sharp curves. Especially ex-Nickel Platte, ex Clover Leaf lines. You can really notice the line's narrow-gauge lineage with some of the curves where track still exists.

Thanks,

Gabe

[csxengineer98]

it is best to try and make any kind of coupling on tangent track...not on a curve...but when it becomes nessasary to make a tie on a curver...sometimes you have to stop the movement just short of the tie....and move the drawhead to get it inline to make the tie... if you dont do this..you can get a bypassed drawhead...and if you hit with enought force..you can derail the cars your going to couple into.....sometimes if you cant get the drawheads to line up becoues thier isnt enough swing.... its best to try and hardhead the knuckles..and slowly...slowly shove the cut your trying to couple into (if its possable becouse the cars are bleed off)....to get to tangent track to make the tie....
csx engineer

[TH&B]

It is a pain to couple on curves today wiyh the average car being 60' long or longer. When it used to be mostly 40' cars it was easier even though there may have been more sharper curves. Modern long drawbars need only be very slightly missaligned to be a problem.

Modern long drawbars sometimes pinch and dont even lign up straight on straight track!! The old 40's didn't have that problem.

Always try to break the joint on the straight and make the joint on the straight, not always possible but try......

Mr Gabe I think it is a good question.

[CShaveRR]

It's seldom impossible to make the joint on a curve, but it can often be very difficult. Ironically, the sharper curves exist in the yards, where most of the separations and couplings need to be made. I've slid a few drawbars over to line them up in my day, and have seen plenty of derailments caused by bypassed drawbars. Because of the forces involved, turned rails are likely to result, as is damage to the part of the car that the knuckle finally hits.

[Anonymous]

Autoracks are probably the worst to try and get set-up on anything other than straight track.

Same with Boxcars with Cushioned drawbars, if the bar is extended.

It can be tricky, because sometimes it looks like the joint will be good, so you keep the movement coming, then at the last minute they bypass because they were off by just a minimal amount, then you've got to start the movement ahead, and give yourself enough room to line the drawbars up, and have another go at it.

It can also be a pain if someone un-couples the cars on a curve, then the drawbar ends up being off to one side, then along you come to couple on, and even though it's straight track, the coupler on the other car is way off to one side, then you've got to stop and line 'em up.

[mudchicken]

The condition in Railroad-ese is called "bypassed knuckles" or bypassed knuckles and Carl (cshaveRR) is on the mark about it being more peculiar to yards and sidetracks. Usually results in car damage and track damage (rail frequently gets rolled-over or kinked/broken/spread dissapating the force of the collision). Really common in curves/ switches with curvature greater than 10 degrees ((R=573.69Ft) or a turnout with a no. 7 frog [eq. cv. of 12degree 26'34" / R=461.36') or less..... You will almost never see a frog/turnout in a main track less than a number 10.

Usually got called out on these in the middle of the night or on the weekend to fix.

Newer GE locomotives with limited throw knuckles are in famous for this. Coupler throw on EMD's is much more forgiving. (7" vs. 14-21" side to side)


[banghead][banghead][banghead][|(][|(][|(]

[edblysard]

I flat yard switch, and if we get one that stalls out in a curve, its a real pain in the backside...lucky us, our switchers, MP1500Ds, have a lot of sideways play in the knuckles...but on the rare occasion we can't couple up to the car, or can't get rid of the cut we are holding onto to get to the car with a light motor, we find a long drawbar car, with a lot of play in the drawbar and use that as a spacer or idler.
We fudge the knuckle around till we can grab the car...if not, we baldhead the knuckles, and shove the car out of the curve.
Like CSX said, you gotta do that slowly, but you can get away with it.

Ed

[Anonymous]

Oh yes, the joy of curves. I've seen many different ways to deal with bypassed couplers and how to work with coupling in a curve. Some jokers just pu***he draw bar into the side of the car and give it a push out of the way, but I find that a little too risky. I end up fooling with the draw bars until the cars couple or at least the couplers are lined and then give a stalled car a good kick to send it home. The #1 rule, which was been mentioned by CSX, Ed, etc is to take it slow. I won't even kick an auto rack due to that shifty long drawbar.

[edblysard]

We are not allowed to let autoracks roll free down here...empty or loaded they have to be shoved to the joint, and then a buffer car added, also shoved to the joint with the rack...after the buffer is added, we can kick against it.

Nothing like banging a load of Volvos around to ruin the day!

Ed

[Mookie]

Ed: "bald-head the knuckles". Ok - you lost me!

Mookie

[jeaton]

Mookie

In case they haven't gotten up yet- (sure) The cars are not coupled up. The couples are closed and the contact between cars is at the face of the knuckles.

[spbed]

Wow thanks for teaching me something! [:o)]

QUOTE: Originally posted by csxengineer98

it is best to try and make any kind of coupling on tangent track...not on a curve...but when it becomes nessasary to make a tie on a curver...sometimes you have to stop the movement just short of the tie....and move the drawhead to get it inline to make the tie... if you dont do this..you can get a bypassed drawhead...and if you hit with enought force..you can derail the cars your going to couple into.....sometimes if you cant get the drawheads to line up becoues thier isnt enough swing.... its best to try and hardhead the knuckles..and slowly...slowly shove the cut your trying to couple into (if its possable becouse the cars are bleed off)....to get to tangent track to make the tie....
csx engineer

[spbed]

I found my fingers do the best. I use HO gauge & when it is hook & eye couplers by using your fingers you can guide one into the other then take the slack out of the cars behind where you made the connection. Knuckles are much more difficult I have found & I actually used what CSX engineers said they do for real. [:o)]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gabe

I realize this will be a stupid question to those who know the answer. But, do rail cars ever have trouble coupling on curves?

For instance, when model railroading and two cars are on a curve, the couples are not perfectly lined up due to the cant of the curve and it is impossible to couple.

I realize radii are not the same on a real railroad, but sometimes you see some pretty sharp curves. Especially ex-Nickel Platte, ex Clover Leaf lines. You can really notice the line's narrow-gauge lineage with some of the curves where track still exists.

Thanks,

Gabe