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replacement of a knuckle

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replacement of a knuckle
Posted by MP173 on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:40 PM
Ok, I am listening to my scanner, watching the world series, playing my guitar, and going outside for the lunar eclipse, when CN752 reports a broken knuckle here on Mount Valpo. BTW...this is the second CN752 today to stall or be immobilized on Indiana's toughest grade!

What is involved with a broken knuckle? More specifically, how do you change one? Where do you keep the spares? Under the railcar?

The 752 has been a real curse today with both of them breaking down on the hill.

When is the UP or the CN going to adequately power these 17,500 ton trains?

ed
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:10 PM
Well, I wish each car had a knuckle, but they are mounted only on the locomotives just above the "plow." There are two types of knuckles, one is an E-type and the other is F-type. E's are more common. Well, each knuckle weighs about 80lbs. When a knuckle breaks you have to pull up on the cut lever that pull up the pin, but you have to hold the cut lever up or the guts of the knuckle fall out. So, you either need two people or you better find something to tie the cut lever up with. Then you lift up the replacement knuckle and put it in and hold in place while dropping the pin back down. Luckily, KNOCK ON WOOD, I have not had to change one outside a training environment, but I feel my day will come. I'm wondering how knuckles are changed on the line of road, do you carry the thing back 100 cars??? Maybe some of the other folks have some good knuckle changing stories as well as more specific info about the knuckle changing process, but that's my [2c].
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:46 PM
An interesting tidbit for those out there that didn't already know it....

If the knuckle is closed, you don't have to have a pin to hold it in there, the only time you really need a pin is when you open the knuckle up.

I never knew that until I opened a knuckle one time and it came tumbling out, whoever replaced it just didn't bother putting another pin in.
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Posted by edblysard on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:54 PM
Well,
You cheat.
When you break in two...and you have a pretty good idea where the break is, you, (the brakeman or conductor) get to walk back to the break, to close the angle ****, so the engineer can pump up the air.
When you get there, and figure out which knuckle you need, you radio the engineer, and he drops the right one off of the locomotive.
He then drags you up to where he dropped the knuckle, you put it on the platform or walkway, and shove back to the break.
If your lucky, and have a brakeman and a conductor, it isnt that hard to change.
If you unlucky, its just you, or the knuckle pin is sheared.
Not that big a deal, if you can get the knuckle back in the coupler, and get the pin to drop, the knuckle will stay locked, minus the pin.

Ed

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Posted by ValleyX on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 10:07 PM
Eddie, you're right, the best thing to do is to pull down and get a knuckle where the hogger that got it threw it off. Course, it doesn't necessarily have to be the hogger's fault that the knuckle broke, there's sometimes extenuating circumstances.

If there's a reason that you can't pull down and pick one up, get a broom or at least a flagstick to make it easier to carry it over your shoulder. Or, if by chance you've got help, the helper can hold one end of the broomstick or flagstick.

Interesting how that knuckle stays in without a pin, isn't it. But I've always thought that without a pin, the stress factors of normal slack action would have to take that knuckle out sooner or later, a personal theory.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 10:09 PM
QUOTE:
Interesting how that knuckle stays in without a pin, isn't it. But I've always thought that without a pin, the stress factors of normal slack action would have to take that knuckle out sooner or later, a personal theory.


Hmmm, that's an interesting thought......

I wonder if it would make much of a difference...
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Posted by MP173 on Thursday, October 28, 2004 6:51 AM
Well, the knuckle broke at 630 last night and at 1030, they were still figuring out how to change it.

It was located on single track section in Valparaiso (single track runs about 6 miles) , on a grade that stalls coal trains anyway. It effectively shut the railroad down.

Train 448 was behind and came up to assist. The 2 conductors attempted to change knuckles, but didnt have the right one. The coal cars required F70's, they only had F50's and E's.

Now what do they do you ask?

The head end pulled the train up to double track . The 448's power pushed the remaining 40 cars up, with conductor protection. BTW, the power was two Wisconsin Central units.

AFter that, I went to bed. One of the westbounds stuck had a F70 knuckle and it was going to be a team effort to change it I believe.

The full moon was certainly out tonight, casting an eerie glow.

I scored some points with my 10 year old as we went out to watch the coal train pull/pushed up the hill. His comments "we ought to do this more often."

When they got it done...I dont know, I was in dreamland.

How long does it normally take to change a knuckle, under good circumstances?

This has to be one of those things they turns a dispatcher over. Could hear it in his voice.

Hope everyone got home safely.

ed
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Posted by zardoz on Thursday, October 28, 2004 10:00 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by macguy

An interesting tidbit for those out there that didn't already know it....

If the knuckle is closed, you don't have to have a pin to hold it in there, the only time you really need a pin is when you open the knuckle up.

I never knew that until I opened a knuckle one time and it came tumbling out, whoever replaced it just didn't bother putting another pin in.


Pins falling out of knuckles happens quite frequently on coal cars that are dumped in a rotary dumper that turns the car almost completely upside down. The coal plant at Waukegan was famous for that. They would shove the cars one at a time up to the dumping hill, turn it over to dump the coal, then let it roll down the hill to the yard. And to make matters worse, their yard was ten curved tracks, so there were very many bypassed drawbars, as well as frozen knuckles.

When picking up the empties, almost every car has to be manually coupled together, and many of them had no pins in the knuckle. At least 10% of the cars had no knuckle pins. We were constantly replacing knuckle parts. One got to be quite the expert at knuckle replacement. Just getting the empties together for a complete train was a twelve-hour job (unless one cheated).

The way we could 'cheat' was, of course, completely against the rules. The yard was nearly level; but when I say 'nearly', I mean there was just enough grade that if one was strong enough, you could go between the cars and manually shove one a bit, just far enough to line up the drawbars and open the knuckle. So when the engines would come onto a particular track, they could slowly shove until the entire track was coupled. Putting together a 100+ car train was quite the workout.
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Posted by jchnhtfd on Thursday, October 28, 2004 12:47 PM
Great discussion on how to change those puppies... being an engineer (of the slide rule/drafting board sort) rather than an engineer (of the throttle sort) I never had the pleasure...
Couple of questions in ed's post which didn't get hit, though, I think -- the big one being why do these things break or pull out? No one single reason, but the most common (at least from the victims I've seen) is metal fatigue: I think we've all taken a piece of sheet metal at one time or another and bent it back and forth until it breaks. That's fatigue. It's hard to think of a knuckle suffering fatigue, but they do, and any incipient crack (it doesn't take much) will grow under slack action or just changes in pull and will, eventually, break -- unless someone sees the crack first, which is unlikely. Rails and wheels do it too, and a great deal of effort is expended in finding these problems before something bad happens!
It's not really a matter of power, although how the power is distributed in the train (if it is) does make a difference, as greater pull through the knuckle will make the fatigue and failure happen faster.
Jamie
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Posted by mvlandsw on Thursday, October 28, 2004 2:28 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by zardoz

Originally posted by macguy

An interesting tidbit for those out there that didn't already know it....

If the knuckle is closed, you don't have to have a pin to hold it in there, the only time you really need a pin is when you open the knuckle up.

I never knew that until I opened a knuckle one time and it came tumbling out, whoever replaced it just didn't bother putting another pin in.


"Pins falling out of knuckles happens quite frequently on coal cars that are dumped in a rotary dumper that turns the car almost completely upside down. The coal plant at Waukegan was famous for that. They would shove the cars one at a time up to the dumping hill, turn it over to dump the coal, then let it roll down the hill to the yard. And to make matters worse, their yard was ten curved tracks, so there were very many bypassed drawbars, as well as frozen knuckles".

The knuckle pins on open top cars that may be turned over are supposed to have cotter pins installed to prevent this from happening. Many people have been injured by having knuckles fall on their feet.
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Posted by csxengineer98 on Thursday, October 28, 2004 2:52 PM
little trick when you replace a broken knuckle...once you get the cottor key out of the kingpin..and befor you pull it out...lift up on the cut leaver and get something to wedge in to hold it up...the chissel or a hunk of wood..anything to keep it from falling down agin... becouse if the leaver falls out when you take the old knucle out...the guts of the coupler will fall out of place..and its a real pain in the *** to put it all back in right.... so by wedging the cutleaver up..you keep them from all falling out when you pull the broken one.... then its just a matter of putting the new in in..putting the kingpin back in..and pulling out the wedge...and you should be set!!!!
csx engineer
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 3:19 PM
I wonder how much the presence of slack in the coupler causes pins/knuckles to fail. The slack causes wave to travel along the train when it brakes which, I imagine, causes most of the fatigue to the couplers.

Would it be so hard to start a train if there was no slack action?
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 4:16 PM
I've seen engineers use slack to get a heavy train started and I have found it helpful in the yard using the Remote engines to do the same thing when I'm pulling 60 loaded grain cars with two GP-38's. And then one time I couldn't get a track to move at all, I tried bunching the slack and then pulling and got nothing. I finally decided just to check to make sure both engines were online and sure enough one wasn't. So, when things don't work, I've discovered looking for the obvious can actually be beneficial.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 4:41 PM
thank you mr Hemphill :)

The wave on the slack is more about stressing metal - thus increasing the chance of sheering a pin/breaking something

1. I assume that can happen only with a train fully streched out. (eg - no or very little slack)?
2/3. Now - wouldn't a fixed/rigid train be less suspectible for this kind of occurance? After all there would be no dynamic component (slack wave) making it possible for the couplers to momentary exceed coupler strength
4. Once again - with no slack partially released train will not move a foot. Thus it would be much less probable to break the train this way.

jchnhtfd:

I was under an impression that as long as the plastic deformation limit was not exceeded steel does not fatigue break. Unlike aluminum for instance.
The only way for steel to bend/break is to either exceed its yield/sheer strength (like in impact or meterial defect).
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Posted by edblysard on Thursday, October 28, 2004 6:43 PM
Jamie,
Think about switching...
flat yard or hump.

I forget to open the knuckle on the car I am kicking.

Not normal, but it happens.

If your lucky, when you kick the car into the last car you put in a track, the knuckles dont by-pass, they just stay bald headed.

But the forces involved are huge, and any weak part in the coupler will give a little more.

Any defects in knuckle will get worst, and the knuckle pin will get a pretty good hammering.

Closed, there is a small amount of play in the knuckle.

The pin holds nothing in place when the knuckle is closed, but the knuckle can compress enough to apply some of the forces on the pin.

They can shear in two, or bend.

Depending on how old it is, and how beat up it is, they just crap out.

All the pin does is provide a pivot point for the knuckle to turn on when you open it, but it does take some stress.

If you get the chance to do so safely, walk a switching yard track.

You find pieces of pins all over the place, a few inches of the top of a pin, or just the body of it, minus the top lip.

You might even find one of the rubber/hard plastic pins...

Seen knuckles with the face shattered, or the shoulder torn off....

There is a limit to what these things can, and can't take.

Any defect cast into the kuckle will, some where at some time, will fail, either in switching, or out on the road.

If you have ever looked inside a coupler/knuckle, its pretty simple, which is why they work so well, and take the beating they do.

But, like any piece of equipment that takes rough handleing, they get beat up pretty good.

Bang it around enough, it will break.

Ed

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Posted by tree68 on Thursday, October 28, 2004 8:27 PM
There is an interesting picture of a "knuckle garden" on Ed Krug's Photo Essay Site. Not a lot of detail, but you can see the variety of failures...

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 8:31 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tree68

There is an interesting picture of a "knuckle garden" on Ed Krug's Photo Essay Site. Not a lot of detail, but you can see the variety of failures...



Just a note to the Krug fans out here, he's added a few more photo essays recently...

I always find what he has to say interesting.
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Posted by csxengineer98 on Friday, October 29, 2004 3:39 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tree68

There is an interesting picture of a "knuckle garden" on Ed Krug's Photo Essay Site. Not a lot of detail, but you can see the variety of failures...
check out his essays on tonnage and tractive effort...gives you a very very very good overview of the stresses that a coupler goes through..not to mention all the mathimatical eqautions that go alot with figering it out...very good stuff...
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Posted by MP173 on Friday, October 29, 2004 7:45 AM
Ed Krug's site is quite the place!

He mixes photography, writing, and knowledge very well.

Very well.

ed
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Posted by Mookie on Friday, October 29, 2004 8:23 AM
Is there ever a time when you would just need a pin and do they carry these on the engine as well?

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Posted by zardoz on Friday, October 29, 2004 8:25 AM
That's why when pulling (without a DPU) a very heavy train up and over a steep hill the engineer will begin to reduce the throttle when starting downhill, even though the train may be nowhere near the speed it is allowed. Otherwise, the pull of the locomotives, plus the additional power of gravity pulling on the head end, can cause a knuckle failure even though the train is experiencing zero slack action. For analogy, consider a weight attached to one end of a string, and pulling that string from the non-weighted end over a knife.
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Posted by UP_North on Friday, October 29, 2004 1:10 PM
Being one that has to pull and spot the Waukegan power plant regularly, I will agree with zardoz that it is one hell of a place to have to put a train together. Having to make joints in curves, and screwed up couplers are only a couple of problems that are faced there. A small correction though, the yard tracks actually slope away from the dumper, so one has to be careful that cars that don't hook up don't come rolling back at you. Another thing I don't think anyone has mentioned is that many coupler pins in coal cars are plastic with spring clips at the bottom to keep them secure. Power plants have found out they are less damaging to the crushers and furnaces.
On to changing knuckles. First pull out the knuckle pin (sometimes easy, sometimes hard), then raise the cut lever and pull out whats left of the knuckle. Now the tricky part. Without dropping the cut lever and with the guts still pulled up, reach around to the inside where the knuckle was sitting. along the bottom of the coupler is a hook shaped piece that helps pull the guts up when the knuckle is opened. Pull back towards yourself as you slowly lower the cut lever and bingo, no need to prop up, tie up or hold up the cut lever, it stays up. Now pick up the new knuckle, place it in the coupler, lining up the pin hole first and slam it closed. Finally replace the knuckle pin and highball. Of course all of this can be done in about 30 seconds or so. It takes more time to talk about it than actually do it.
Ihope I didn't confuse anyone to much
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Posted by zardoz on Friday, October 29, 2004 2:30 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by UP_North

Being one that has to pull and spot the Waukegan power plant regularly, I will agree with zardoz that it is one hell of a place to have to put a train together. Having to make joints in curves, and screwed up couplers are only a couple of problems that are faced there. A small correction though, the yard tracks actually slope away from the dumper, so one has to be careful that cars that don't hook up don't come rolling back at you.


Well, it has been 20 years since I was there.....at least as a groundpounder.

But that was the trick, though; to get the cars to roll enough to seperate them, but not too much that they didn't run out to foul. Much better (or at least safer) to do it by the book.
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Posted by jchnhtfd on Friday, October 29, 2004 2:31 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by uzurpator

...
jchnhtfd:

I was under an impression that as long as the plastic deformation limit was not exceeded steel does not fatigue break. Unlike aluminum for instance.
The only way for steel to bend/break is to either exceed its yield/sheer strength (like in impact or meterial defect).

That's the theory... in truth, it's true in principle for any metal (as long as the metal is in the elastic range, it shouldn't fatigue). That being said...[:)] there are a few things to be cautious about, and the most serious is the presence of material variations in the body of the knuckle: changes in the type of steel, for instance (tempering differences, etc.) can change the stress distribution and push some volumes over the yield point; and the presence of stress risers in the knuckle -- which can be any sharp change in section, or a knick in the side, or... again, raising the local stress over the critical point. And, of course, once a fatigue failure starts, the stress is more concentrated, and so the crack propagates and, so the stress concentrates, and...[:D].
Does all this take slack action to happen? No -- just variations in drawbar pull. Granted, shock (like a bad slack action) doesn't help a bit, and may be the immediate trigger, but and variation in stress will do it![:D]
Jamie
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 29, 2004 3:45 PM
I think the hardest part of changing a knuckle is getting the blasted cotter pin out so you can pullout the pivot pin.
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Posted by mvlandsw on Friday, October 29, 2004 11:30 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by drailed1999

I think the hardest part of changing a knuckle is getting the blasted cotter pin out so you can pullout the pivot pin.
Just cut it off with your hammer and chiesel.
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Posted by ValleyX on Saturday, October 30, 2004 10:05 AM
Mookie, there should be replacement knucklepins in the toolbox, if the toolbox is well supplied, as well as cotterkeys.

Cresting the hill with a heavy train by reducing the throttle is a good practice when handling trains. I've always found that if you get the engines over the crest of the grade, the rest of the train will always come, and never had this disproved by failing to make the grade.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 30, 2004 12:03 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by mvlandsw

QUOTE: Originally posted by drailed1999

I think the hardest part of changing a knuckle is getting the blasted cotter pin out so you can pullout the pivot pin.
Just cut it off with your hammer and chiesel.

Chisel !!! We didn't have any stinking chisels. They were all stolen out of all the locos and we had no replacements.
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Posted by csxengineer98 on Monday, November 1, 2004 2:25 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by drailed1999

QUOTE: Originally posted by mvlandsw

QUOTE: Originally posted by drailed1999

I think the hardest part of changing a knuckle is getting the blasted cotter pin out so you can pullout the pivot pin.
Just cut it off with your hammer and chiesel.

Chisel !!! We didn't have any stinking chisels. They were all stolen out of all the locos and we had no replacements.
spikes work in a pinch
csx engineer
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