|
Search
You searched for the word(s): userid:95795
I have a couple of the el cheapo "flip down hood type" and luv'em. I use them for almost everything including painting in very small places. You really can't (unless you have SUPER eyesight) do a good job on things you can't see very well. I'm now considering the more expensive Optivisor. BTW, like you and many others, I had power pickup issues with my Athearn RS-3 and sent it back to Athearn. I haven't received it back yet but if it still has the same problem I think
Hmmmm..... no, well maybe. I know Micro Mark sells the Optivisor for over $30. The one's I have came from a local tool place, like Harbor Freight, and sell for under $10. They're ok for the price. Having never owned the higher priced ones, like Optivisor, I can't really say how much better they are. I mentioned earlier that I'd use my Athearn RS-3 for a track weight if it didn't perform well but, like you, I'll probably tear the sucker apart and try adding wires. I agree,
Wow Ty, you were up and at'em early this morning! Well, here's my contribution for the week......, an Atlas HO scale model of Central of Georgia's #108, an RS-3 leaving the yard. Jarrell
On a foggy morning in the southern Appalachian mountains, Central of Georgia's #108 leads a freight up a grade past an old home place. The Alco RS-3 engine is an Atlas product, smooth running as a fine watch. Jarrell
Much obliged for to everyone for the answers and links. A friend, that is pretty knowledgeable in model railroading (much, much more than me) was over yesterday trying to find what the problem was, but couldn't. I told him I knew a bunch of guys that probably would... You gotta love the internet! Jarrell
[quote user="rrinker"] This is exactly the problem I had with mine. Disassembly of the mechanism is exactly like a Blue Box loco, the work cover on top is what holds the truck in (although now there is a wire rather than the metal clip for the one pickup - careful not to break the wire off). Don't loose the bronze bushings arounf the worm, either. On the bottom, there is a clip over the wheelsets that snaps off, then you cna remove each wheelset. What I did on mine was solder a wire
AND.... I hear they have great customer service too! I know that you get what you pay for, so maybe in the $80 price range one shouldn't expect a Kato. I have only one of those and love it, so smooth and quite. Reminds me of a well made Swiss watch. I understand that mfg's are trying to make a product within a certain price point because of competition and, well.... what people can afford. To solder connections, or add more wiring does run up the price per unit, possible to the point some
model railroading "? Let's see, she never told me the formula for making ' ground goop' . Hmmmm, what are some others, do you have any?
Sounds like a valid reason to me! Jarrell [quote user="chatanuga"] I still remember on my old layout at my parents' house how I wanted to follow in the steps of Jim Hediger's article about extending a staging yard on his Ohio Southern. I wanted to put a staging yard in the food pantry in the room next to my layout. I asked my mom if I could use one of the shelves, and she said yes and told me which one. When I told her it was too high, she asked me why I needed a lower shelf. When
I watched my friend here working on a small wooden structure.. On this building he wanted an old looked so he mostly used thin washes of paint. In some places he put an under coat of white paint and after that had dried he put his thin top coat on, letting the under coat of white show through. He always was sure to paint the backside of a piece of wood and would sometimes, depending on how big the piece was, place a weight (book or whatever) on it and allowed it to dry. That helped to prevent warping
|
By signing up I may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers from Trains.com. We don't sell,
rent, or trade our e-mail lists.
|