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The digitrax decoder manual is available to anyone. Yes, you get a copy with a Digitrax DCC system, but you also can get it for free from their web site. Just liek TCS has additional manuals for free download that they don't give you with every decoder. There's probbaly more NCE info too. It's not practical for most dcc manufacturers to include 100 page fully detailed manuals with ever sub $20 decoder. a) it costs too much b) it wastes paper and c) if I got that size manual eith every
NCE and Wangrow (and Ramtraxx), while 3 seperate companies, shared a common system design, so no orphans. Which beats one certain company still in business who has orphaned owners of multiple previous systems before finally getting the hint that people don't want to throw away their old system to get a new one. --Randy
[quote user="Silver Pilot"] First recommendation is to ditch the Digitrax decoder and replace it with a NCE decoder. The reason - as you've found out, Digitrax decoder manual is severely lacking in instructions on how to do things like programming for ditch lights. Ironic, that the decoder manual lists as its features white leds for ditch lights but doesn't explain how to program them? Go with a DA-SR decoder from NCE. Its a 5 function decoder and you'll need to add the additional
Those three settings on the Tsunami are pretty much equivalent to the three BEMF adjustments on Digitrax decoders tha thave BEMF. ESU, CT, and other Euro decoders have even more adjustment for BEMF, but little explanation of whatthe variables are int he calculation, so it's a lot of trial and error to get the optimal settings, however sub-optimal in ESU is better than optimal settings with Digitrax. --Randy
Unless they changed something, I don;t think the Atlas turntable uses a split ring pickup to automatically flipt he polarity. All of the Atlas layout books show hooking up the reverse loop DPDT switch on a Controller to the turntable track. The easiest solution for DCC is an auto-reverse unit, DCC power in to the autoreverser, the outputs connect to the turntable bridge power (and ONLY the bridge power). But a DPDT switch wired as a reversing switch (wires in an X on the corner terminals, DCC in
[quote user="cudaken"] Thanks Simon for the posting and PIC. Shoot out in E St Louis, very pro-typical. Rinker, do you have anything to share? Ken [/quote] Well, last weekend I went through all the old pictures at my Mom's, but alas I could find none of the ones of the various train layouts, other than one that is really of my sister and my dog that you can see one of the layouts in the background. And I have a new printer/scanner, too. I'll keep looking. --Randy
[quote user="simon1966"] [quote user="rrinker"] Is that the prototype for Thomas?[/quote] Nope, it is a 0-4-0, Thomas is a 0-6-0 If you want to see Thomas done right you have to go to Didcot Railway Centre in England http://www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/events/thomas.html Here he is a real steamer that actually runs, based on the real prototype. I do have a rather nice OO scale pannier tank engine that is the dead ringer for Duck!! [/quote] No need to cross the pond, right near
Definitely don't use the 90ma bulbs - direct to track power the current draw is OK but they are likely too high to connect to a decoder function output. And 90ma bulbs in direct contact with a plastic shell (if they press right in to the headlight hole) will melt the plastic when running at full power. People may wonder why their old plastic locos didn't melt using big high power 12 volt bulbs under DC - simple: they weren't running on a constant 12 volts, most of the time you probably
You can get it to move at speed step 1 by adjusting CV2, but with a DH123 series decoder you'll never get the ultimate in slow speed eprformance, the DH123 does not have back-EMF. CHeck your value in CV54, it should be either 0 or 1 to turn on torque compensation, which helps but is not as good as BEMF, nor is it adjustable, it's either on or off. Getting a non-BEMF loco to run perfectly well with a BEMF decoder (the Tsunami has pretty good BEMF) is near impossible. For a much lower price
FOr small diameter holes, the music wire will work. I believe the end is cut off at an angle, not flat. That makes it work sort of liek a drill bit (more like twirling a knife), and music wire is hard enough to cut into wood. --Randy
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