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Black knobbed tower on the middle of the floor forward of your right side foot pedal. Im not sure about the rest of them it has been years since I played with big tonka type toys for wages.. but some of these others will be for the feet to stablized the vehicle, others to lift and actuate whatever tool like a backhoe. You could even have a few like a dozer blade with a attachement in the back or a small crane. But I have a feeling you are dealing here with a tracked vehicle.
The Mohawks were mighty engines. They stuffed the tender full of coal and run off water pans between rails with a scoop. And they can get up and run. The Class Lights were for nighttime work. Flags by day. That is the way I see it. Certain lights for specific trains. I may broadcast my ignorance but white class up front is for extra not regularly scheduled. Several trains running the same train (In sections for a really heavy passenger train departing close together for example) had other class lights
If I recall the Lock Raven Dam north of Baltimore, they ran the railroad in front of the spillway until sufficient material is built up to finished the thing. Then they tore up the track and went away. Conowingo is built very strongly. Under there be turbines to generate power. Those things has to be isolated and ride smooth and perfect all the time no matter what happens else where. Many dams along the Dalles in Oregon were mighty dams but had provision for shipping ways to lift and drop ships so
The ebay fees for listing at 5,000 dollars will infect this seller and eat him alive.
I had a pair that worked together for over 15-20 years. They are bulletproof. They may have received a bit of plastic compatible oil and that was it. One thing that might help you improve your loco is the motor on the chassis. It has been a long time for me so bear with me. If you have a motor that has flat sides and looks bronze you are in good shape with this motor. If you have a large soup can that is black metal, you probably have a older motor that might be replaced with the newer can style
I never did smoke engines in HO. O yes, but not HO. I owned a bunch of BLI Engines in the past, the old fashioned dual mode QSI Decoder equippted ones. All of them have had no issues, except one the Reading T1 which did not hold up well to constant running as happened to favorite and good running engines. I sold them all off prior to my move into On30. I did keep several P2K engines though. Would I buy FDT? I dont know. I always bought mine retail. At least if there was a problem, they can go back
I have sold items on Ebay in the past. Customers paid up and got feedback. I was too small to worry about negative feedback and moved on to the next purchase. I think out of 150 sales I had only one problem damage complaint which was refunded (10 dollars) and one no feedback from a customer. I dont lose sleep over it. I am strictly a buyer now, I check with hobby shop first, internet second, ebay last. However we were able to purchase some needed resources in some quantity unrelated to trains in
Or they can build a EBT Mike to go with the hoppers that they made. It might not quite fit what EBT was doing in real life scale wise. But pretty close.
You want to consider a short run around near the bulk of your switches. And a place to entry the train so you can get to it to and from switching. You will want dual switch engines so that they will help each other over dead spots in track. The road engine can do it, but you will see that they are not as agile as the switch engines.
I have a 2-6-6-2 on the way with a caboose to match. They will form the first set of the On30. No fad here. Just a natural move up from HO while taking advantage of HO track as might be useful. I will probably use On30 as a foundation for the O Gauge in the future pending more space.