Search
You searched for the word(s): userid:335929
[quote user="7j43k"]While Paul North's analysis was great fun to read, I'll advocate for a physical experiment--even more fun! I'd like to suggest to the experimenters that you try, besides the pseudo-copper of today's pennies, an equal thickness of steel. If the "copper" penny just sort of oozes out of the way, is it really testing the ability of the locomotive to climb over it? Might as well just try a .050" thick piece of styrene, for [/quote] I'm with
Thanks guys I was not able to find LEDs the right size so I bought a 12V, 60 ma bulb and put a 100 ohm resister in line. The new bulbs is slightly larger than 2.4 mm which is not ideal but works. I may put a larger resister in because the light is a little too bright. I have come to the conclusion that this Bachmann Thomas is not very good (piece of junk). The gears that make the eyes move create a lot of drag. I don't think my little buddy will know or care. He's only 2 years old and really
[quote user="yankee flyer"]I bought my grandson a powered Thomas engine and I was wondering if my power cab will operate it. I can't find anything in PC manual. Will I have to put a decoder in the Thomas? [/quote] I forgot to ask, Is the Thomas DC V or AC V? I'm not into the toy trains but some one told me the toy trains are AC V. Thanks Lee
Trying to run a Thomas train on my DCC layout. I disconnected the gearing to the wheels so that I can push the Thomas with one of my other locos from the back of it's train. I would like to put lights on the Thomas. I have the wheel pickups to take power from the track. For a 1.5 V 2.4 mm light bulb, what resister value should I use? I've seen different values suggested of 100 ohms and 1K ohms. I have already burned out one bulb. Thanks for any help Lee
Hi The reason I wanted to use the tiny 2.4 mm bulbs is because they are the right size and have two thin wires that can run back to a connection point. LEDs have the bare posts and could present a problem. The bulbs that I have now are 90ma so I'll see about getting a lower current bulb. thanks Lee
Hi Guys I bought my grandson a powered Thomas engine and I was wondering if my power cab will operate it. I can't find anything in PC manual. Will I have to put a decoder in the Thomas? Thanks Lee
HI all I have a loco that I pefer not to use an LED in because the DSD LC does'nt like LEDS. It calls for 12V bulbs and I have 12Vs at 50 MAs and 5.5mms. Can't swear for the millie amps. Also have 1.5V 90 MAs? and 2.4 mms. How do you tell how bright they will be? the little one take up less space but I would have to use a resister. I have room for the bigger ones and I don't need resister. I'm not sure what size looks best in a loco for brightness. Thanks Lee
[quote user="nbrodar"] I use and SPDT toggle and a push button to control mine. The switch makes up for the lack of contacts on the Atlas machines. Over the years I have burnt up a couple. And it doesn't take long. Nick [/quote] Nick Use the CD circuit suggested and you won't burn up the atlas motors. I only allows a momentary current flow and then won't recharge untill the switch is released. Even if you lean on a switch button, like I have done before I put in the CD circuit
[quote user="cudaken"] 1 If the button is not held down to long, are they durable? Must use capacitor discharge circuit. works perfect. 2 Been told door bell wire is pretty cheap and will work. Need three wires. I used phone wire. 3 APX cost of the motor and switch? Not sure of current cost, cheaper than most switch machines. Make Bell crank to place switch motor under table, cheap and easy. It will reach any thickness needed. I, and others have posted how to on this site. Mine was listed
Hi The Tsunami directions call for a plus and minus for the motor connections on their decoder. Does anyone know which orange or black motor wire is called plus +. I can't find a reference to polarity. thanks Lee