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Would love to see a picture.
I would like to replace the wire running from the contact plate to the e-unit. I have the Greenburg book. It indicates that the contact plate with the sliders can be removed by twisting a screwdriver in the side hole. I have a later 2026 with the rollers. The roller contact plate seems to be constructed the same as the slider plate. May I remove it the same way safely? Are there tips from anyone? Thanks.
I was concerned about that too. The Greenberg book made it look too easy.
Don't mean to pile on, but I would have to say that the $100 price point does not work for me either. I thought these little engines were a great value, but a 50% increase in price is pretty steep. Further, on my layout Beeps really have trouble on switches, so they are useful only on circles of track. And they lack the bells and whistles too. It's a shame, but I think the $100 price point is probably going to push a lot of people away. You can find a used basic service engine in other brands
I am a bit confused by the wiring schematic, and the wire colors are different from those indicated in Bob's note. Can anyone help me based on this picture? The view is the rear of the unit as it would be mounted to the engine. Thanks again.
I have the 1951-1953 version of the 2026 and I need to install a new e-unit. Problem is that I don't have the old one to follow for wiring. The new one came with 4 wires attached. One attached to the bottom fingers. One attached to the side lug of the switch. And two attached to the top fingers (one each to the two right side fingers if one is looking from back of engine to front). Can anyone tell me where the four wires should be soldered? Thanks in advance.
If it helps anyone, here's what I did. I have four insulated blocks. Two level portions, with one at the top of a grade and one on the bottom. There is one up-grade and one down-grade. I bought two ancient Lionel rheostats. From the transformer, the power wires run straight to the up-grade. That is where the highest speed needs to be. From the main power wire, one rheostat steps the power down and powers the two level sections. A separate rheostat then runs to the down-grade, stepping the power
I have used the two rheostat set up and it works like a charm. The uphill climb (one block) is direct to the transformer (highest speed), then the level portions at the top and on the deck (other blocks) are on a rheostat to set the speed back a bit, and finally the downhill grade (yet another block) is on a separate rheostat to produce the lowest speed. As I said, works without any problems for me. I am using 027 tin track, so it was easy to set up the blocks.
"While inside with the lid off and power plug removed from the wall, clean the area that the roller wheels make contact with." What would you use to clean the windings? I am always concerned about causing damage there.