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I have found that when the styrofoam is placed over an open area and not over the top of some thickness of plywood, that it creates a drumming sound. Very hollow sounding. My bench is built much like a wall with a frame and joists.. I layed 1/4"plywood over the whole thing, except for a 2' x 3' section. Then I layed 2" pink styrofoam over the entire bench. I used the 2" so I can carve down... When an empty boxcar rolled over the section that didn't have plywood, the wheels
Every couple of months someone writes about how the current issues of MRR don't live up to what they used to be!! I'm seriously getting sick of these. Usually i skip over them but was compelled to reply this time. I find the current issues just fine! If I was dissatisfied, I would not renew my subscription. If you people are dissatisfied with the way the mag is written , quit getting it!! Or.... start your own magazine.. Then maybe you'll appreciate what it takes to produce an issue every
[quote user="Graffen"] Here is how I do it. I use a dark sky blue and a very light blue (white works as well), to paint the backdrop i use 4" brushes. I start with the darkblue from the top and work my way down in horisontal strokes until 2 / 3´s down. Then I take the light blue and works upwards into the wet paint in horisontal strokes until I am 2 / 3´s up. Don´t work in too long sections as the paint dries rather quickly. To blend the colours I use another 4" brush, if there
[quote user="RBOLIN2828"] STARTING A NEW HO LAYOUT, MY LAST LAYOUT I USED CORK ROADBED WHICH WORKED FINE. I HAVE ORDER SOME WOODLAND SCENICS FOAM ROADBED AND IT SEEMS LIKE IT WILL BE ALOT EASIER TO WORK WITH. LOOKING FOR PROS AMD CONS ON FOAM. ALSO WOULD ELMERS WHITE GLUE BE OK TO ATTACH THE FOAM TO SUB ROADBED (WOOD) AND TRACK TO FOAM. THANKS FOR ANY INFO IN ADVANCE, RANDY [/quote] I used the foam once also, but I had problems with.... Make sure you don't pull or compress the foam
I don't think adding to benchwork is a problem. I'd be willing to consider this idea.. But my table is made like a wall. With an outside frame, and "studs" between them.And then plywood and foam on top.... My question is, how do I cut an access hole in the middle of this??? Without compromising the integrety of the table?? About the mill scene.... In my drawing, the location of the switch just above the labeled log dump is about 6" beyond the bottom of the grade. So the grade
[quote user="steinjr"] [quote user="MPRR"] I don't think adding to benchwork is a problem. I'd be willing to consider this idea.. But my table is made like a wall. With an outside frame, and "studs" between them.And then plywood and foam on top.... My question is, how do I cut an access hole in the middle of this??? Without compromising the integrety of the table?? [/quote] The way to cut a hole where you need to cut a joist is essentially done in the same way
Well after carefully reading through all of your considerations, I now can understand why and where to place places in town. I agree with the idea of breaking up industries in a way that they are not overlapping in town. (front to back) Thank you for your help in helping me understand a few things. I sometimes have a problem imagining where the train comes and goes when there is nothing there.. And where it should go to make ops more realistic and well, easier. About those earlier pics in photobucket
Bob, great work here!!! I especially like that bridge and waterfall scene. That waterfall looks very realistic! All beautifull
'I second the opinions of the other respondents. But, on the left lobe is a very small station with a short passing siding. This siding can be used for the logging operation on the far west side too, especially if you flip the siding to the far west end of that lobe. Or do you want two different scenes here? That western lobe can be made 4' 6" longer. At the cost of a one foot smaller eastern lobe and a 30" entrance aisle. So you can have almost 10 feet length here; a nice addition
Awesome link stien, thanks.
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