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I spay the ballast with Isopropyl Alcohol before applying undiluted WS Scenic Cement straight from the bottle with an eye dropper. Use the same technique on scenery. I tried white glue but I guess I like to really lock things down. Jim
Hi Ulrich. There is no real issue in using a hollow core door as a base for a layout. My last layout was build using the more traditional method of open-grid dimensional lumber covered with cookie-cutter plywood on risers, supported by 2x4 lumber legs. It was sturdy, strong and very heavy. I could stand on it or drive my truck on it if I wanted to. My newer layout consist of a foam covered HCD resting on shelving units. This has worked well in my situation as I wanted the layout to be lightweight
I've used latex based LN or similar stuff to attach track to cork roadbed, roadbed to foam, roadbed to plywood, foam to foam, foam to plywood, masonite to foam, masonite to plywood, etc, and have not seen the "expanding, and coming up" problem that you described. It worked fine even on the unheated garage layout with its temp and humidity swings. Sound like you used the wrong glue or have something else going on. Jim
Mike, you are correct. I didn't mention that I also always spread out the bead of LM, with a scrap piece of wood or plastic, into a fairly thin flat layer. Much as you would do if you were laying tile or sheet vinyl on a house floor. Jim
Fred, some very good and detail suggestions on layout construction techniques. But the subject of this particular topic is Hollow Core Doors and you come across as being dead set against their use for some reason. I think they have their place just like any other method - IMHO. Jim
No issue in the community. Just some different opinions and viewpoint s like there always are on just about any subject . Obviously you cannot use something that is not available. Good luck with your plans and layout. Take care. Jim
Hi Darrell. I like the latest one level design plan much better than the initial that required a duck-under. With that much space in n scale, I would definitely double track the mainline and reduce some of the other extra track to leave more room for scenery. I did a turntable and roundhouse on a previous layout and would not do it again as it looks great but is a bear to get to reliabl y work in n scale. I know it's hard to do with track planning software, but at implementation time try to vary
I used left-over extruded foam to make 4" square pads which were glued to the bottom of the door. The pads let the HCD rest on the floor temporally during construction without squishing the wiring, and provided the support point when the HCD rested on two shelving units. The outside edges were painted black and square piece of 1/8 masonite distributed the support across the surface of the foam pad. Picture looks a little funny at this angle but I was just trying to show the supports. Jim
[quote user="MILW-RODR"] ..Metal wheels clacking on metal track sounds more realistic than silent plastic wheels. [/quote] I currently do not have metal wheels on any rolling stock, but am considering trying a few sets. I can believe that they roll smoother and keep the track cleaner, but I'm wondering about the noise. Don't know about the "clacking" sound changing between mosly flex track, a few pieces of sectional track and turnouts - does it sound a little weird?
What's a good brand of flat paint to hand paint some small bare brass details that are already mounted on an engine? Paint that would flow good and not go on too thick where it would cover up the fine brass details. I tried some Testors enamel on a small test piece of brass wire and it came out looking like rope. Obviously airbrushing and spaying leaves a finer and thinner coat, but the parts are already mounted - so they have to be hand brushed. Jim
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