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After the ballast dries is too late. The time to start thinking about noise reduction is before you start building your layout. 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch sub-roadbed is better that 1/4 inch or Luan, or a foam covered table. The more sold your layout construction is, the less noise you will have. A soft type roadbed material is better than a hard type. Cork will dry out and become hard, Homa-bed or WS foam roadbed will have less noise. Elmers glue is hard when dry, and I suspect that the WS glue is too
I had this problem too. I got to the point that I f they didn't leave feedback for me, the buyer first, I didn't leave any for them. I am not concerned about my feedback numbers, just my score. However, I think that eBay's policy has changed in that the seller HAS to leave positive feedback when they are paid. This was a few months ago. Since then I have not had a problem.
Welcome back to the world's greatest hobby. DCC starter sets are being offered that are less expensive that the full blow systems but not all are expandable so you need to watch what you choose. NCE and Digitrax are the two big ones. Sound in locomotives is reasonable and very impressive now. RTR locomotives are now available with DCC sound decoders installed. Some folks are starting to add caboose marker lights controled by a DCC decoder. Signal systems are available now too. You can get simple
You can try a search on Lift Bridges on this fourm. You can also go to the simple web page about the MRR I am building. About half way down the page there is a link to a PDF on how I built my lift bridges. I had to build four of them. The PDF has photos and suggestions on how to do them, and things that you should know. http://mysite.verizon.net/vzescsbb/HO_MRR/C&A-Main-Page.html
You didn't really say what your experience level is unless I missed it. I would advise you to start with a small layout and just run the smaller equipment to start. Most first time model railroads don't last because the builder sees his mistakes and wants to start over. If you build it small, it will not bankrupt you when you tear it down. Plus you will gain a lot of experience building it. And as you build it, you will be doing some research about how to do things. You will run accross all
I have started signals for my layout. I am a retired electronics technician and have tried to explain the basics of signals and where to start. There are links to some different systems starting with the simple and then up to the complicated. It is not meant to be a tell all, but is how to get started. Go to the link below: http://mysite.verizon.net/vzescsbb/HO_MRR/Signals/Signals_getting_started1.html Hope this helps.
Hi All, Our club layout is an old one. (and so am I) We have been around for 25 years. Some of the old yard areas are just now seeing scenery and ballast. We have quite a bit of Atlas flex track that is nickel silver with fiber ties. (It still runs good) I know there was a way to glue the ballast down without using any of the water methods, which will warp fiber ties. Anyone remember how to do it and what to use? Thanks in Advance.
CTI Electronics also has a system that can be used for DC, and DCC if you decide to switch over sometime. http://www.cti-electronics.com/ I know you may be having fun, but if you don't want to re-invent the wheel........ I have used this system for a DC layout and it is really good in my opinion.
I have used it and like it better than cork. Personal preference. Plus I think it holds spikes better than cork.
A tank sounds good to me. i don't know if I would worry about what kind of tank (what it holds). The point is to hide the pipe. If there is room, you could put two more tanks of the same size close to it, thus giving the impression of a tank farm. Visitors won't care what the tanks are for. Other operators might, but everyone is going to know its for hiding the pipe. I also wouldn't try and buy a kit for it. Less chance of getting something that would fit right. You might be able to get