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I have hidden a number of Atlas Snap Switch machines under the switch. You have to cut a hole under the switch of course - in my case the layout is on 1 inch foam so this is easy. You disconnect the motor and mount it under the switch with strong double sided tape [Staples]. Before you do this make a small right angle wire piece and attach it to the activator pin on the motor - I used a piece of styrene square tubing and CA glue. You have to position the motor carefully under the switch as you just
I too have lots of unfinished or never started projects [boxes of structures or frieght cars], but this doesn't bother me. I just pick up one of them as the mood takes me. Currently it's painting some HO figures with a new techniques [for me that is], installing a decoder in an Athearn switcher [having some difficulty here but I am learning a lot], weathering and decalling some structures, rescenicking some of my setup. The thing I like is learning new techniques, which happens all the time
Another tip that I've found useful if you do have to stick something to a painted surface, is to use Walthers Goo adhesive. I use this to attach roof details such as vents and chimneys; can also use for attaching wall details such as lamps, steps and loading docks. The glue is messy and has to be used within a few minutes - squeeze a small amount on a scrap piece of wood - and apply only a dab with a tooth pick. Sealing the tube with the provided screw cap doesn't work that well - I use a
This has been a most interesting discussion. I too have tried a number of approaches for making trees. I find that the Woodland Scenics plastic armatures give rather disappointing and unrealistic results - may be I need to put some work into "weathering" the plastic wood. One source of good low cost starting material is the variety of "dried flower plants" you can get from Michaels intended for decorating flower arrangements. I can't think what they are called for now, but
I recently bought a product called HobbyCal InkJet Water-slide Decal Paper [from Walthers]. This is designed for use with inkjet printers with no need for a sealing over-spray. I have used it a couple of times and it works OK but doesn't seem to sit down on an uneven surface such as brick so well. It could be that I need to work on this some more. The images are also not as crisp as commercial decals but this could be the quality of the original image on my PC. I am still experimenting. One thing
I ordered one too - will have to pay postage to Canada, but it's still a deal. If it's like an Athearn SW1500 switcher that I got about 5 years ago, then it will have only one light, have one of the power pickups through the frame, and have some metal wheels that attract rail dirt like crazy. I replaced the wheels with North West Shortline nickel-silver wheels and had to hardwire a decoder [there is no 8-pin plug]. The loco runs fine except that I shorted out and fried the decoder when cleaning
The only choices are a truntable or a wye track - both will take up space - or picking the loco up and turning it around. Why not just run the locos forwards and backwards in the same orientation? I see this happening all the time in freight yards. You would then perhaps want to have a parallel passing track for the loco to run around the rolling stock. This also happens all the time on passenger trains when they reach their terminus. Alan
Wayne: Thanks for your process - It was very timely for me as I was about to decide how to "motorize" my Cornerstone Modular freelanced construction. I tried it yesterday and it worked like a charm. I had already spray painted the walls [no windows/doors yet] with a light brown not unlike the original colour. I also tried the darkened wallpaper paste [on a test piece] but I don't think this turned out so well. My task now is how to add some decals. I am experimenting with some gash
Simon: Nice to see another Brit Rail fan - I too have a collection that I run from time-to-time, but I don't usually mix them up with my N.A. stock. You seem to have got rid of these pesky brit [Hornby] couplers which look so ugly on what are usually very well detailed models. How did you do this? I always enjoy seeing others' work on these regular threads - great techniques on the various weathering projects. For the forum here are 2 shots of both ends of my setup.
I have also done both ways. For Cornerstone or DPM type structures that have whole walls to put together, I usually paint them first with a spray can [cheap kind from a hardware store - lots of colour choices] after first masking the edges that will be glued later. Use just 1 or 2 light coats. Depending on the model I may mask areas for putting on different base colours [as in a cornerstone merchants row I did recently]. Then I paint the window/door trim with acrylics and a small brush. I then put