Search
You searched for the word(s): userid:269944
Mark's got it right! I will add that crossovers (double and single) also use a 2" spacing (IIRC). I use 2-1/2" for most of my double track mains on the straights and 3" (33" and 36" radius) on curves. I converge the tracks for a pair of double crossovers and use parallel single track bridges. Never had a problem even with long cars. Of course, 80 footers don't look great on 33" curves but they do run without sideswiping. Karl
I would (and have) use at least one code size smaller rail for the guard rails. You can buy loose rail but generally (I believe) in quantities larger than you will need. It's simple to strip rails from a spare piece of flex track. 70 or 55 (use n scale flex track - its easy to get and cheap). Also bridge ties tend to be both longer than regular ties and closer together. I did exactly the same as Mr. B as far as ties are concerned on one trestle where it is difficult to see the tie lengths. It
You can also run the LEDs in a series/parallel arrangement to save a lot of wasted power and thus need smaller power supplies. Karl
roger, Just click on the tree icon in the editor and tell it where on the web you've stored the photo. Yes you MUST store the photo on a web server not on your local PC. Here is one of mine built using a similar process but matte paper. Karl
[quote user="Railcon44"]Just bought the Proto 2000 E7A With the Q1a sound decoder. I'm not happy with the top end speed. Witch cv values do i use to get better top end speed? i have tested the speed and the best it will do is 60 smph, I want more. Railcon44[/quote] Two questions: 1) Is the output voltage of your booster adjustable? 2) Is it set too low? Speed is controlled by average voltage which is proportional to duty cycle of the pulses to the motor. Once duty cycle reaches 100
"combination merchandise and oil car". It looks like the word "combination" is critical. Google can return really weird hits sometimes. Karl
Doug, if you are using tortoise switch machines (or any stall motor type) simply put a 2 lead bipolar LED in series with the power to the tortoise. You can even use two in series. I have one on the control panel and another as a ground indicator near the turnout itself.If the colors are reversed just switch the leads on the LED. If you're using some kind of Atlas type snap controller then you will probably need to add a "snap relay" for each TO. Edit, you don't need the relay. It
Google is your friend. http://books.google.com/books?id=cLUkqc18yFcC&pg=PA130&lpg=PA130&dq=combination+merchandise+and+oil+car&source=bl&ots=RqeisSPnhQ&sig=UtaStivmlgL1fyr05RQGlZD7XfA&hl=en&ei=1tv4SrL4NdHBngfl8cCHDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CA4Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=combination%20merchandise%20and%20oil%20car&f=false (This was the first hit). Page 130.
[quote user="tangerine-jack"] not just some painted surface so maybe a resin, but how to get the surface texture? [/quote] I am big on my water having depth, even if it's only half an inch. It's really hard to put a boat or a fish IN painted water. Boats ON the surface look silly unless you sand off their bottoms. So, I'm with you on the resin. (Envirotex lite works great). Don't forget to paint the bottom and let it dry thoroughly first. For waves/wake/ripples you might
In this part of the country real electric/telephone poles are 150 or 200 feet apart (newer poles are taller and further apart than older poles BTW). In the 1950's Telegraph poles along the old Husdon River West Shore line were closer to 100 feet apart (14" = 101 feet). I use a 20" spacing (145 feet) along my mountain line with 25' (exposed) tall poles. This was my compromise between saving poles and looking realistic. Any further apart looked like some were missing. Here's a