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You searched for the word(s): userid:25395
In my case, that goes back more than a few years. The first trains that I ran were a set my father bought (and I still have), an American Flyer S Scale steam freight set, with a Union Pacific 4-8-4 and 10 freight cars. It still runs and I usually put it up at Christmas time. I have a loop made up of S scale flex track, the sectional track was too tight of a turn. A friend of mine into American Flyer collecting cleaned and lubed it for me a few years ago.
The big problem with ordering it will be the shipping cost. Flex track comes in three foot sections and you'll be paying extra for an oversized package that needs to be stiff enough to resist bending in the shipping process. This will probably make the cost for shipping a lot more than the price of the track itself.
[quote user="wm3798"] I'd like to see that, and I'd like to see the models pre weathered, and pre detailed, and pre wired for sound and lights, and I'd like to have someone come to my house and unwrap it for me, and put it on the layout they build for me, and then run it for me. What a great hobby! Lee [/quote] Yes, it does sound like craftsmanship is dead.
The Atlas turntable does use a split ring to power the table track, and it switches polarity at the point where the A and B tracks split, which should be directly across from the crank/motor position. That's why the tracks positions are labeled A and B. If you match the polarity correctly for DC, it will be right for DCC. I run DC with the Atlas turntable and matched the polarity of the approach track and all the storage tracks with the table track. This would probably be easiest to wire up as
[quote user="krtraveler"]If someone in the marketing department were really smart about it, North Philadelphia would have been set up as a stop for the long-distance trains with corridor trains only stopping there if a passenger needed a transfer to a city not served by the LD routes. North Philly set up as the long-distance station and 30th Street being the commuter's station would have made perfect marketing sense.[/quote] You must be looking at a track map and not the surrounding
For removing any decal, provided you didn't seal it with something like Dullcote, just use the Solvaset. Lay the building so the surface is flat, soak the decal area with Solvaset and allow it to soak for a few minutes, you'll see it wrinkle. Then it can just be wiped off. Depending on the brand of your decals, Solvaset may be a bit too strong, which means it will destroy your decals. If this is the case, try cutting the strength about 50:50 with distilled water.
When I saw the title, I was expecting a discussion on aisle width.
[quote user="BRAKIE"] Will,Food for thought..Each addition ounce of added weight will cut down on the locomotive's tractive effort... I have often wondered which is the lessor of the 2 evils-going by RP20.1(outdated?) or leaving our cars at stock weight..For me stock weight won out.I can't see cutting the TE of my locomotives and adding extra strain. -------------------- As far as the other type of weight..We should keep that in mind while designing our layouts even if one doesn't
Ballast, joint compound, and paint should be nonconductors (insulators) WHEN DRY. Definately make sure the materials are all dry. Also, since this happened when you were scraping the rails, I suggest running a vacuum cleaner over the area, and a couple feet on either side of the area. Also, if you even suspect the insulators at the crossover, give this area a close inspection
Any hobby shops nearby wherever you're at on business?
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