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When I purchased my 'forest green' Toyota X-cab, new, I took note of the resemblance (distant cousin) to one end of a GG1. It was close enough to Brunswick green... Sixteen years and 200,000+ miles later, it's still waiting for its keystones... Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
[quote user="nickaix"] Edited for brevity. I'm awfully tempted by some of the older machines I see offered cheap on ebay, but I've no idea whether they'll work in O gauge. I suppose the biggest concern is the length of travel of the machine's "arm" (or whatever you want to call it?) Most often these machines are offered without any gauge specified. If a machine were designed for, say, HO, or O Scale , would it be able to close the points on a Gagraves or Ross turnout
Only the pennies in the direction of motion make a difference - the other ones will just be left standing there as the wheels roll away - squashing the other pennies to a mere fraction of their original thickness in the process. Of course, in a very short time those 'left behind' pennies will also be flattened, except for the last if the locomotive has no trailing truck, tender or following cars. I might ask the folks at the Nevada State Railroad Museum, or the V&T crew, if they can test
To add to what Dave said, there were some rather colorful box cars running in the transition era. NYC's Pacemaker cars, with the big tapered roller (they had roller bearings) on a two-tone car side, come to mind. Also, while still box car red, the Santa Fe had some with the system map spread all over the side. The Pacemakers were originally in captive service (high speed LCL in named freight trains) but others were more widely dispersed. Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - where
Have you sent this question to the manufacturer? It's not very likely that they'll find it by cruising this forum. So happens, RR Tie Brown wouldn't do me much good. Concrete ties, you see. (Maybe concrete tie grey-white, to kill that plastic sheen?) Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Add me to the, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," column. As long as the plastic wheels (on metal axles) are in gauge and clean, I use them - even if the truck they're installed in goes back on after a serious kitbashing of the car it was originally under. (Ever see a single-bay hopper? How about a seven axle articulated hopper with one bay per carbody?) Most of my rolling stock has metal wheels - because that's what TER, KTM and Tenshodo put under them. I have had issues
Help with what? 611 was put out to pasture because the NS was no longer interested in running her. At the same time they sold all the specialized spare parts needed to maintain her - for scrap. In the years since, I don't doubt that they've long since been converted to saw blades and mattress springs. Then there's the minor detail of having a place to run a stiff, long-wheelbase locomotive. Since the demise of steam there have been subtle changes in track geometry that make it better
[quote user="rrebell"] Ace hardware sells 1/16" drill bits in 6" and 12" lengths and they are not expensive. If you want bulletproof wiring use Posi-taps to tap into your buss wires, no broken wires, no under track soldering, undoable and reusable if you make a change or mistake. [/quote] Thanks for the heads-up on the long drill bits. As for posi-taps, I personally prefer stud-and-nut terminal blocks - I can assemble a 50-stud block for about as much as I would have to spend
I am currently developing my 'last in this lifetime' layout, a moderately complex double garage filler. Originally, when I only had title to half of the garage, I had planned a much more complex (for the space) 9 x 16 on which to operate the same master schedule. When the opportunity came to double the footprint, I simply eased the strings on the bindings and expanded the same track plan - with longer straightaways, broader curves, longer yard tracks and sidings to handle full (prototype
The one thing that flex does well that sectional track can't even touch is spiral easements, those gentle transitions from straight (aka tangent) track to curved track. Since I am an experienced track layer, I tend to look at sectional track as, "Too many rail joints." However, I will concede that it's easier to lay a truly circular curve with sectional track - provided that the track vendor has manufactured sections in the radii that you want to use. Of course, if you start off
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