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You can use a toothpick to disable the shoe's if you don't want to take a chance of damaging them. Raise the show and you will see an open area just below and to the side that you can jam a toothpick into. Cut off the excess that protrudes outwards. If you ever want to reactivate or sell the engine, just pop out the toothpick and your back to stock condition. I have two engines that I used this method on several years ago and so far I have not had a problem. Mark
I'll be having my first open house July 11th and 12th. The MM&G is located in Northern Ohio, near Akron. The times will be Saturday July 11th from 10am to 3 pm, and Sunday from 4pm to 7pm. If your interested in stopping in, email me direct and I can send a 2 page PDF file with directions, etc.
You don't need to bother with the wire. Just solder the joiners. I did some sevral years ago and they are still holding up just fine. Mark
If you float your track on a gravel roadbed, you don't have to worry about the freezing and thawing. After putting down gravel so you have a decent roadbed, maybe 2 inches above the ground, lay the track. After everything is down go back over and lay ballast down the middle and with a stiff brush move it all around to fill in the gaps. I use what is called medium Chicken Grit, sold at most farm and garden centers. I started out digging a trench several inches deep, then filling that with stone
When laying track, just think of how the real RR's lay theirs. No wood base, concrete or plastic base, just rock and stone. No need to reinvent the wheel here. The important thing is to have fun doing it and remember that even the real RR's have to go back periodicly and re-ballist, just make that a part of your operations. Have fun...... Regards, Mark
Graphite would be my guess also. Mark
Just let it float on top of your Balast like the real guys do. For my layout I have about 1/2 of it on balast layed using the trech method. On the other half, I did not dig the trench and just layed my balast on a weed barrier on top of the ground. I have not seen any difference between the two methods here in Northern Ohio. Regards, Mark
Simular situation here. The MM&G has been up for 4 years now and until this winter I have had no damage from critters. I say this winter because I see a dear steped on one of my sections of track and bent it a little. Not enough to change it out though. I have planted a lot of cactus around and that seems to keep dogs, cats and rabbits away. Mark
Mark By the way, good name. The Sub C's that come in a lot of the drill packs fit well into most cars if they are removed from the plastic cases. The one's that I buy are from Harbor Freight and I get the 18volt vareity on sale for around $10 for the pack. Put two in parallel for more amperage. The one's that I buy only have 3 screws in the case that need to be removed. Works like a champ. Regards, Mark
I use 3 of the Aristo Bobber cars, usually pulled by one of my battery powered RS-3's. Just at the end of last year I converted one of them to pack a green scotch bright pad instead of the eraser material. I think it will end up back with an eraser pad this summer. The normal procedure is to drag the 3 cars around and after each loop of the 600+ feet mainline, the pads get cleaned with a degreaser, like Simple Green. The train then starts on it's way again. After about a ½ hour, the
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