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If you have that much room your should build in a donut shape. You'll get 4 scenes instead of two and be able to get wide enough turns to run those diesels.
Bump to the top for a newcomer.
Johnboy, I was going to say Joe Fugate/ Charlie Comstock. But although I admire the combination operations/realistic scenery, I'm not sure they are ground breaking--just masterful. I will say they are on the forefront in terms of embracing new technology, so who knows.
Carndell and Byon are right. I forgot about the fact if the loco goes 180 and comes back out turned, the polarity needs to be reversed. I happen to have one AR-1 sitting around. I guess I need a couple more.
Thanks Guy, I'm pretty confident at being able to build a TT. I have a good knowledge of tools having been a finish carpenter and a general contrator who as done my share of structure design. There are things I know are limitations. I have difficutly with soldering (and plumbing for that matter.). But woodworking is not one of my issues. I do have an Atlas TT with drive sitting around. But my layout will have 3-4 turntables all smaller than the Atlas.
Okay, so I'm reading a 1986 MR that talks about building a turntable for under $10.It was really good and showed how to detail the bridge from prototype photos, etc. (I think the 80's is my favorite decade for MR.) Anyway, at the end, he throws in a paragraph--just a paragraph--that says he used a 24 v motor and a variable resister and it wasn't the purview of the article to explain motoring. So I still have to figure out how to drive it right? Or do I? If I'm modeling at latest 1910
Rekilen and Dstarr, I don't think I'm going motorized at this point. The idea of manual has me intrigued. And it kinda sorta fits the early 1900 theme. I do appreciate the ideas. Any belt or chain drive must be tight. I like the idea of the record with maybe some felt above and below for friction. I've seen three different ways to wire the bridge. The most eloquent is the use of a 1/4 inch audio jack for the pivot. Not only will it support the bridge solidly, it keep the track polarity
Lots of good point here. Dave, That LP sounds like a great idea. Something smaller with a belt might work at a distance. Randy & Peter, Proximity to the edge sounds like a good plan. I'll keep that in mind. MB, You've convinced me I need something to keep it from moving--maybe a baseball card in the spokes.
Lothar, I'll use some kind of mechanism. Not necessarily a motor. Crandell, Split ring will be my second choice if the 1/4" audio plug doesn't work.